Installed a new dash plate oem from aftermarket junk now I need the wiring diagram from switch to lights etc power and breakers under tank
SOURCE: Rewireing 93 harley davidson FXLR to 96 Handle bar
On the handlebar switches, Harley hasn't changed the color code scheme very much over the years but you really need a good schematic to know exactly how they are wired up. If you can find either a Harley service manual for a 96 model or a Clymer's manual, it would be helpful. I have a schmatic for a 94 FXDWG that should be alright for your 93 FXR but you need a schmatic for a 96 model bike.
SOURCE: picture wiring diagram for 2003 harley fatboy
May I suggest a trip to your local library. Cycle repair books should be in 646 stacks of reference.
Otherwise you can Google for 2003 Clymer Service manuals on the internet.
I think Clymer had electrical diagrams in their books. I doubt that any except the HD service book would have anything about the physical location of the harness, but the pictures in the other books would help you.
SOURCE: I need a wiring diagram for a electronic ignition module.
If I understand correctly, Your bike has points in it now and you want to go to electronic ignition. If that's what you want to do, I would suggest that you go with one of the aftermarket ignition units. They're more versatile, costs less, and easier to install.
There are two types available. Your bike has a mechanical timing advance unit behind the points breaker plate. One type of electronic unit eliminates this mechanical part and makes the system truly maintenance free while the other type retains the mechanical advance unit and cost less. A prime example is Crane Cam's HI-1 unit that retains the mechanical advance and their HI-4 unit that eliminates it. Most bikes made after 1984 do not have the mechanical advance units. Since your bike does not have any of the original components left on it, I would suggest that you get one of the units that goes in the "nose cone" of the engine. It simply replaces the everything in there if you get the unit that does not use the mechanical advance. The Mechanical advance units are prone to wear and since no one ever services them, I'd suggest getting rid of it. You'll have to purchase a "timing cup" from Harley, costs about $20, a lot less than $100 bucks for needle bearing mechanical advance unit. Get the shorter screw that goes with it as well.
All you have to have with either unit is a "hot" wire going to the coil. The coil must have a primary resistance of somewhere around 3-4 ohms where a points type coil has a primary resistance of 4-6 ohms. To determine the resistance of your coil use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter and measure the resistance between the two small terminals on the coil. To wire the ignition units is usually just a two or three wire hookup that is very simple. They all come with wiring instructions.
Now, the next thing is whether you wish to stick with "dual fire" ignition or go to "single fire" ignition. Dual fire is the system that almost all Harley's come equipped with from the factory. In this type of system, both spark plugs fire when the pistons are top dead center. Since one piston is on the exhaust stroke, that spark is of no consequence and therefore is considered a 'wasted spark". In a "single fire" system, the spark plugs fire independently when each piston comes to TDC on the compression stroke. It requires either two coils or a "two in one" type coil. This added coil increases the cost of the system and to be honest with you, I cannot tell a difference between the two systems. With that in mind, I opt to go with the less expensive and simplier "dual fire" system.
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Ok, this will get you started. Installing an electronic ignition system in an older Harley is easy to do. The difficult part is deciding which one to go with. Once you do that, no problem. If you have anymore questions, drop me a line at [email protected] .
To see how to hook up one of the units, go to their website and look for a "Technical" page. Go to that page and look for "installation Instructions". Print them out and it'll tell you everything you need to know. If not, I've got some different types of systems installation instructions that I can scan and send to you.
Good Luck
Steve
SOURCE: I need to replace the
If the ignition switch is under the dash that is on the tanks, you simply remove the small screw that holds the trip reset knob onto the speedometer and take the nut in the center of the dash off. The dash works up and off of the switch and speedo. That's all there is to getting the dash off. Sometimes it can be aggrevating due to the tight fit of the speedometer.
Good Luck
Steve
SOURCE: My 97 fatboy battery started
Well, I don't really know how to tell you to troubleshoot your starter when you don't have a meter. When you press the starter button, there is a starter relay that is usually mounted on the rear fender extension on the Fat Boy that engages and provides voltage to the starter solenoid. This voltage goes to the solenoid via the single small wire that plugs onto the starter just above the d-sided plate on the end of the starter. This wire goes hot which energizes the coil in the solenoid. The magnetism pulls the plunger into the starter. The plunger has a large round copper "washer" that make contact to two copper terminals inside the solenoid that connects the battery to the starter motor.
To test the starter, make SURE your transmission is in neutral. Take the 5-sided plate off the end of the starter. There are three 3mm bolts that hold the plate on. Behind the plate, you'll find the plunger and long spring. Using a large screwdriver or something, push the plunger into the solenoid as far as you can. The starter should engage and turn the engine. If not, look at the copper contacts inside the solenoid. If they look burned and are not smooth across the face, you may need to replace them. Rebuild kits are available both through Harley and aftermarket suppliers.
Good Luck
Steve
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