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Because the clutch cable adjuster clearance increases with engine temperature, adjust
the clutch when the engine is cold. If the clutch is adjusted when the engine is hot, insufficient pushrod clearance can cause the clutch to slip.
1. Remove the clutch mechanism inspection cover and
quad ring
2. Remove the clamp and slide the rubber boot off the clutch in-line cable adjuster.
3. Loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the adjuster to provide maximum cable slack.
4. Make sure the clutch cable seats squarely in its perch at the handlebar.
5. At the clutch mechanism, loosen the clutch adjusting screw locknut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise until it is lightly seated.
6. Squeeze the clutch lever three times to verify the clutch balls are seated in the ramp release mechanism located behind the transmission side cover.
7. Back out the adjusting screw counterclockwise 1/2 to 1 turn. Then hold the adjusting screw and tighten the locknut to 72-120 in.-lb.(8-14 N•m).
8. Once again, squeeze the clutch lever to its maximum limit three times to set the clutch ball and ramp release mechanism.
9. Check the free play as follows:
a. At the in-line cable adjuster, turn the adjuster away from the locknut until slack is eliminated at the clutch hand lever.
b. Pull the clutch cable sheath away from the clutch lever, then turn the clutch cable adjuster to obtain the clearance gap
c. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the clutch in-line cable locknut and slide the rubber boot over the cable adjuster.
10. Install the clutch inspection cover quad ring onto the primary chain case cover.
11. Install the clutch inspection cover and tighten the screws to 84-108 in.-lb. (9.5-12 N•m).
Because the clutch cable adjuster clearance increases with engine temperature, adjust
the clutch when the engine is cold. If the clutch is adjusted when the engine is hot, insufficient pushrod clearance can cause the clutch to slip.
1. Remove the clutch mechanism inspection cover and
quad ring
2. Remove the clamp and slide the rubber boot off the clutch in-line cable adjuster.
3. Loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the adjuster to provide maximum cable slack.
4. Make sure the clutch cable seats squarely in its perch at the handlebar.
5. At the clutch mechanism, loosen the clutch adjusting screw locknut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise until it is lightly seated.
6. Squeeze the clutch lever three times to verify the clutch balls are seated in the ramp release mechanism located behind the transmission side cover.
7. Back out the adjusting screw counterclockwise 1/2 to 1 turn. Then hold the adjusting screw and tighten the locknut to 72-120 in.-lb.(8-14 N•m).
8. Once again, squeeze the clutch lever to its maximum limit three times to set the clutch ball and ramp release mechanism.
9. Check the free play as follows:
a. At the in-line cable adjuster, turn the adjuster away from the locknut until slack is eliminated at the clutch hand lever.
b. Pull the clutch cable sheath away from the clutch lever, then turn the clutch cable adjuster to obtain the clearance gap
c. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the clutch in-line cable locknut and slide the rubber boot over the cable adjuster.
10. Install the clutch inspection cover quad ring onto the primary chain case cover.
11. Install the clutch inspection cover and tighten the screws to 84-108 in.-lb. (9.5-12 N•m).
Loosen clutch cable (if not hydraulic clutch) completely (clutch cable adjustment is about 1/2 way down cable.
Remove derby cover on primary cover. Looks similar to this:
To adjust your clutch on your Sporty, find the cable adjuster in the middle of the clutch cable. Move the cover out of the way, break the locknut loose, and adjust the adjuster inwards to get as much freeplay in the cable as possible.
Now, remove the cover from the clutch release mechanism on the primary cover. Remove the spring and the locknut. Inside you'll see a slotted adjuster screw. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise as far as it will go. Then back up clockwise 1/2 turn. Reinstall the locknut and the spring, then the cover.
Go back to the cable adjuster in the cable and adjust the adjuster outwards until you get about a 1/8" freeplay in the clutch cable. Work the clutch several times and check the freeplay. If correct. lock the locknut and replace the protective boot.
Slide the rubber boot away from the clutch cable adjuster.
Loosen the cable locknut and turn the adjuster to provide as much cable slack at the clutch lever as possible.
Support the bike so that it's sits straight up.
Remove the clutch inspection cover.
Slide the spring with the attached lockplate off of the adjusting screw flats.
Turn the clutch adjusting screw counterclockwise until the screw stops. Then turn the clutch adjusting screw clockwise 1/4 turn.
Install the lockplate and spring onto the adjuster screw flats. You may have to turn the adjuster slightly to get the lockplate to line up.
Reinstall the clutch inspection cover and O-ring.
Adust the clutch cable at the cable adjuster all the way out and work the clutch a time or two. Now adjust the cable so that you have between 1/16" and 1/8" of freeplay at the clutch lever.
Tighten the cable adjuster locknut and replace rubber boot.
Good Luck
If the speedo gear is in the front wheel a different wheel would have different gear and mess up the speedo but I'm thinking the gear wouldn't mesh with the old speedo cable teeth.Check a shop manual for stock number of teeth on rear sprocket and tranny sprocket,that will tell the story.While your at it check the stock wheel size compared with what you got.Of course it could be bad speedo.There's springs in there that run needle, so?Maybe borrow one and try it out.Good luck.
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