Heat questions heat from the exhaust. The rear header pipe is in very close proximity to the shock. The front header pipe is not far from the oil tank and oil coolers. I don't care for the looks of header wrap, but I don't want to heat up the shock either. Thanks.

To remove a 2008 touring starter FIRST remove the seat disconnect and remove the battery negative cable (black) from battery negative (-) terminal, remove the starter front and rear mounting screws with captive washers, remove the Keps nut from the stud of the bracket tab and remove the exhaust support bracket, pull back the rubber boot and remove the hex nut from the battery Post, remove the battery positive and the main power cable ring terminals, remove the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, remove the engine oil filler cap/dipstick and cover the fill spout opening with a clean shop cloth or towel to keep out foreign objects/material, to facilitate starter removal, if necessary, remove the two worm drive clamps to release the heat shield from the rear header pipe, remove the starter from the motorcycle carefully sliding it out through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover exercising caution to avoid losing the two ring dowels that are somewhat loosely installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange.



To install a 2008 touring starter FIRST verify that the two ring dowels are installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange, lubricate the o-ring on the starter and lubricate the bore of the primary chaincase with a light film of clean primary chaincase lubricant, carefully slide the starter in through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover and with the starter solenoid connector at the front, move the starter into its installed position, remove the shop cloth or towel covering the oil fill spout and install the engine oil filler cap/dipstick at the top of the transmission case, install the slot of the exhaust support bracket onto the stud of the bracket tab aligning the other holes with those in the starter flange, start the Keps nut onto the stud, engage the hole in the exhaust support bracket, install the starter front mounting screw with captive washer, install the starter rear mounting screw with its captive washer and alternatively tighten the starter front and rear mounting screws to 25-27 ft-lbs (33.9-36.6 Nm), tighten the Keps nut on the stud of the bracket tab to 12-15 ft lbs(16.3-20.3 Nm), install the main power and battery positive cable ring terminals onto the battery positive post, install the hex nut and tighten it to 70-90 inlbs(7.9-10.2 Nm), pull down the rubber boot over the terminal connections, install the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, if removed, install the three worm drive clamps to secure the heat shield to rear header pipe, tighten the clamp screws to 20-40 inlbs(2.3-4.5 Nm), insert the bolt through the battery negative cable (black) into the threaded hole of the battery negative (-) terminal and tighten the bolt to 60-96 in-lbs (6.8-10.9 Nm) and reinstall the seat.

Tighten the top nut of the front cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm), then tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm), final tighten the top nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6Nm), then tighten the bottom nut of the rear cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm), tighten the top nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm), then final tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6Nm), tighten the transmission exhaust bracket clamp bolt to 60-96 in-lbs (6.8-10.8 Nm), tighten the two bolts with lockwashers, tighten the four TORCA clamps to 45-60 ft-lbs (61- 81 Nm) in the following order, crossover pipe to left side muffler, then rear header pipe to right side muffler, then front header pipe to rear header pipe, then rear header pipe to crossover pipe, tighten the Keps nut securing the bracket tab to the exhaust support bracket, open the worm drive clamps and install the six heat shields onto the exhaust pipes positioning each clamp so that the screw is on the outboard side in the most accessible position and then tighten them to 20-40 in-lbs (2.3-4.5 Nm).

To remove a 2008 touring starter FIRST remove the seat disconnect and remove the battery negative cable (black) from battery negative (-) terminal, remove the starter front and rear mounting screws with captive washers, remove the Keps nut from the stud of the bracket tab and remove the exhaust support bracket, pull back the rubber boot and remove the hex nut from the battery Post, remove the battery positive and the main power cable ring terminals, remove the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, remove the engine oil filler cap/dipstick and cover the fill spout opening with a clean shop cloth or towel to keep out foreign objects/material, to facilitate starter removal, if necessary, remove the two worm drive clamps to release the heat shield from the rear header pipe, remove the starter from the motorcycle carefully sliding it out through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover exercising caution to avoid losing the two ring dowels that are somewhat loosely installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange.



To install a 2008 touring starter FIRST verify that the two ring dowels are installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange, lubricate the o-ring on the starter and lubricate the bore of the primary chaincase with a light film of clean primary chaincase lubricant, carefully slide the starter in through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover and with the starter solenoid connector at the front, move the starter into its installed position, remove the shop cloth or towel covering the oil fill spout and install the engine oil filler cap/dipstick at the top of the transmission case, install the slot of the exhaust support bracket onto the stud of the bracket tab aligning the other holes with those in the starter flange, start the Keps nut onto the stud, engage the hole in the exhaust support bracket, install the starter front mounting screw with captive washer, install the starter rear mounting screw with its captive washer and alternatively tighten the starter front and rear mounting screws to 25-27 ft-lbs (33.9-36.6 Nm), tighten the Keps nut on the stud of the bracket tab to 12-15 ft lbs(16.3-20.3 Nm), install the main power and battery positive cable ring terminals onto the battery positive post, install the hex nut and tighten it to 70-90 inlbs(7.9-10.2 Nm), pull down the rubber boot over the terminal connections, install the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, if removed, install the three worm drive clamps to secure the heat shield to rear header pipe, tighten the clamp screws to 20-40 inlbs(2.3-4.5 Nm), insert the bolt through the battery negative cable (black) into the threaded hole of the battery negative (-) terminal and tighten the bolt to 60-96 in-lbs (6.8-10.9 Nm) and reinstall the seat.

Ice build up or loose metal parts.

E805


There is a fan error.


0000


Failure in heat exhaust fan (front) (FM2)
When lock signal is detected for 5 sec while the fan is stopped.


- Replace the heat exhaust fan (front) - Replace DC controller PCB


0001


Failure in rotation of heat exhaust fan (front) (FM2)
When lock signal failed to be detected for 5 sec while the fan is driven.


- Replace the heat exhaust fan (front) - Replace DC controller PCB


0002


Failure in heat exhaust fan (rear) (FM1)
When lock signal is detected for 5 sec while the fan is stopped.


- Replace the heat exhaust fan (rear) - Replace DC controller PCB


0003


Failure in rotation of heat exhaust fan (rear) (FM1)
When lock signal failed to be detected for 5 sec while the fan is driven.


- Replace the heat exhaust fan (rear) - Replace DC controller PCB


there are 2 fame in the right door if you just look on the right door you will see 2 square vents
get in there and remove the fans and clean them out with canned air and apply a small amount of oil in the center then flick the fan to make sure it spins softly
reinstall and try it should fix the problem but please go ahead and order a new fan the part number is on the fan itself in the sticker it will say FK2-????-????

HI. On the strat the fill plug is just behind the rear exhaust pipe about one inch or so to the rear. You need to loosen the front exhaust header nuts (don\'t remove 17 ft. lbs. ) remove the rear header nuts (these are allen style 14 ft. lbs.) pull the rear header out of the exhaust port. Use a torque wrench or they will leak. Now you have enough room to install the allen wrench into the fill plug. This plug is about 1 1/2 in diameter. It is a big pain to do. Don\'t loose the exhaust gaskets or just buy new. They are about $12 each. I have reused them just a couple times then install new.

There are six bolts for the 2.2L Mr2, the four that you probably found, and there are two more just above and to the left of the oil filter if you are facing the engine from rear of the car. I installed headers about a year ago and also recall a smaller heat shield on the bottom side of the exhaust manifold that may be obstructing the view to the last two bolts. You may have to jack the car up and unscrew the bolts from underneath. Oh, and just so you know, if you are replacing the exhaust pipes, you have to drop out the rear end of the car to pull them out without destroying them or possibly damaging something else, like the UV joint. I hope this helped.

the pilot jet is too only make the bike idle so it wouldnt be this is the engine have lots of oil in the engine

My experience with this is limited. The fix then was to rejet the carb and remove the blue with special stuff they happened to sell in the parts department. The trouble was, as was explained to me by the mechanic servicing my 1973 Honda 350, too much heat because of too much fuel going through the carb.

Chances are that the header or manifold is cracked. usually the heat exchanger themselves are not damaged from freeze, but either the rear manifold (header) or the front header (the one that pipes go in and out of). Sometimes both. Replacing the entire heater is not necessary, about $200 in parts usually. We have a schematic diagram of the LJ heater here: http://www.poolcenter.com/parts_heaters_lite2_lj_2003-present_pg1.htm

Rob Cox
POOLCENTER.com