Starting issues My husbands S4R has been having sporadic issues with starting. Sometimes

When he tries to start it the starter solonoid clicks but the starter never spins. After this happens the starter solonoid will not even click again until after the starter lead wire is disconnected from the starter. Even after trying to bypass the starter solonoid and connecting the starter straight to power it won't spin. This happened a few months back while on vacation and we replaced the starter after trucking the bike back home and all worked well for several months. He rode the bike to work on Wednesday with no problems. Went to start it Thursdy morning and nothing. Looked at all he can think of last night (starter switch, neutral switch, solonoid, etc) and can't figure out what is going on. Does anyone have an idea what could be going on here?,Electricity is one of those areas that seems to baffle most folks. But it is LAZY and only does what is commanded of it. Whether it gets commands through engineered protocol or from a short or ground failure. Try to follow the sequence of events as designed by Ducati. And solve through process of elimination. As I read your TS you have applied 12vdc directly to the starter + stud with no results. To me that would suggest open segments on the starter armerature. Try removing the starter and Bench testing it directly with 12 vdc. If it does not respond then try rotating the drive gear a little and reapply power. If it spools up after rotating then you have an open and need a replacement starter. PS I don't want to sound condescending but be sure to supply a ground from the starter housing to the 12v source - terminal. If the starter checks out GOOD then start back tracking to the Solenoid and ensure it is operating properly and so on all the way back to the handlebar switch. You can also check for an OPEN on the armerature with an OHMETER connected to the + stud and the housing. Then slowly rotate the drive gear from segment to segment and look for Infinity readings. There are also carbon brushes that transfer the power to the armerature segments and sometimes they wear out/fail. They usually have a braided copper pigtails to pass the current to the core. This is all stuff you can do to minimize the 90$/HR troubleshooting expenses at the dealer. Let us know what you find,,,