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Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary and remove the outer primay cover. Take the engine sprocket nut off, take the clutch adjuster out of the center of the clutch assembly and remove the mainshaft nut. This nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster. Take the engine sprocket, clutch assembly, and primary chain off all together. Then, pull the rotor off the engine sprocket. It can be difficult to get off due to the strong magnets in it. Once off, there are four small bolts holding the stator on and two small screws holding the plug into the case. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. Torque the small Torx bolts that hold the stator on to 40 inch pounds. The engine sprocket nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds with one line of Loctite 271 heavy hold thread locker in it. The LEFT HANDED threaded mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds with a single line of Loctite in it. You'll need a primary locking bar to keep the engine from turning while applying torque to the engine sprocket nut and the mainshaft nut.
There's nothing to replacing the regulator. It simply bolts to the frame. The wires from the regulator to the stator plug into the plug on the lower left front of the engine case. The larger longer wires runs back along the frame and up to the positive post of the battery.
There's a bit more to replacing the stator. To replace the stator, disconnect the battery and drain the primary case. Remove the outer primary cover. You'll have to take the engine compensator sprocket nut off and remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. To get the clutch assembly off, remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly and remove the clutch adjuster. The mainshaft nut is inside the hole in the center of the clutch assembly. The nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster and take the engine sprocket, primary chain with adjuster, and the clutch assembly off all together. The rotor is on the engine sprocket shaft. It can be difficult to get off because of the magnets inside of it. The rotor has two holes in it. I use two long bolts and put them just into the holes deep enough to hold the rotor by squeezing the ends together. Pull the rotor off. The stator is held on by four small Torx bolts and it has a wire support that is held on by two small sheet metal screws. When you install the new stator, make sure you use thread locker on the threads and torque the bolts to 40 inch pounds of torque. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch mainshaft nut (LEFT HANDED THREADS) torques to 60-80 foot pounds. You'll probably need a locking bar or some way to prevent the engine from turning while you torque the nuts.
First, disconnect the battery and take it out of the bike. Then drain and remove the outer primary cover. Once you have that off, you'll have to remove the large nut that holds the compensator sprocket on and take the clutch assembly off. The engine sprocket nut is very tight at 150-165 foot pounds of torque. You'll probably need an air wrench or some way to lock the primary chain so the engine doee not turn while trying to loosen it. To get the clutch assembly off, remove the snap ring and take the clutch adjuster out of the center of the clutch assembly. The mainshaft nut that holds it on is in the hole in the center of the clutch assembly. The nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster shoe and take the engine sprocket and clutch assembly off all together. Remove the starter jackshaft. Then, on the other side of the bike, you'll probably have to remove at least some of the exhaust system so you can get the starter off. Take the battery cable off the starter and remove the two large socket head bolts to take the starter off. You will have to take the bolts out of the oil tank so that you can raise it just a bit but you shouldn't have to take it off. There is a coupling that the jackshaft fits into on the end of the starter. Mark which way the coupling faces or remember that the counterbored end goes towards the jackshaft. Go back to the left side of the bike and take the four bolts at the engine out and the nuts back at the transmission off. The inner primary should come off at this point.
Check the TORQUE PULLEY and crankshaft pulley!
Torque pulley usually has this big spring to push the the inner side of the pulley to grip the v belt, this pulley moves that depends on ur speed, and the outer side of the pulley has a drum that holds the clutch lining.
These clutch linings have also springs that holds the clutch linings.
Usually the noise would be these springs malfunction or the entire pulley have loosen the main NUT!
Anyway, u could study how to dismantle that kind of scoot in You Tube!
Hope that make u learn much 'bout scooter!
Taah!
To install a clutch is not what I call an easy job but not an extremely difficult job either. You are going to need some special tools however.
The tools you'll need are an impact wrench, a large socket to fit the compensator nut and one to fit the mainshaft nut, a primary locking bar, torque wrenches that will torque to 150 foot pounds and 70 foot pounds in the left handed direction, and a special tool required to disassemble the clutch assembly.
First, disconnect the battery, then drain the primary and remove the outer primary cover. Use the impact wrench and appropiate socket to remove the compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Remove the snap ring holding the release plate in the center of the clutch assembly and remove the LEFT HANDED THREADED mainshaft nut. Take the nut off the chain tensioner and remove the primary drive (engine sprocket, adjuster, and clutch assembly) as a unit.
Now, using the special tool, compress the clutch spring and remove the lock ring holding the clutch assembly together. Disassemble the clutch and reassemble it with the new clutch hub. Reinstall the primary drive. Apply one line of Loctite 271 inside the mainshaft nut and torque it to 70-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED. Apply two lines of Loctite 271 (red) to the compensator nut and torque it to 150-165 foot pounds. This is what the locking bar is for, to keep the engine from turning while applying the torque to these two nut. Adjust the primary chain and reinstallt the outer primary. Add about one quart of lubricant to the primary. Reconnect the battery. Adjsut the clutch and cable.
The compensator has a large nut on it and it's very tight. But, I get them off with an air impact wrench. You also have to remove the clutch assembly and primary chain. To remove the cluch assy, remove the clutch rod adjuster plate in the center of the clutch assembly by removing the snap ring. Inside the clutch is the mainshaft shaft nut. It has LEFT HANDED THREADS ON IT. Take it off and the remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster off and lift the front sprocket, the clutch, and the chain off all together.
The rotor should come right off but you'll have to put two bolts in the holes on the rotor and squeeze them together to get a grip on the rotor to pull it off. The magnitism force is quite strong.
When replacing the clutch and compensator, the mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds. You'll need something to lock the primary chain while you torque the nuts or the engine will turn before you get them torqued.
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