Question about 2001 Suzuki SV 650

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Won't run when the throttle is applied 2001 Suzuki SV 650

My 2001 Suzuki sv650 won't run when the throttle is turned. Carburetors are clean fuel flows. The problem started after a small front end crash bike stopped on the side, no oil leaks. The bike originally wouldn't run after the crash but after some work is now at this point. What's wrong? Please help @

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  • Suzuki Master
  • 60,901 Answers

Hi, Agustus_frag and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
2. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
3. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
4. Pilot/slow fuel jet clogged.
5. Faulty accelerator pump.
6. Float level too low.
7. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
8. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
9. Fuel line to carburetor kinked or pinched.
10. Fuel filter clogged.
11. Intake manifold leak.
12. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
13. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
15. Multi carburetors not in sync.
16. Faulty fuel pump or internal fuel line has pinholes.
17. Fuel injectors clogged or faulty.
18. Faulty throttle position sensor.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.visordown.com/forum/workshop/sv650s-wont-start
http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=110895
Suzuki 1999 SV650 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

Posted on Mar 29, 2019

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Tom Diffin

  • 95 Answers

SOURCE: A Fuel leakfrom a hose from the carb.

that hose is a carb vent, the end looks flared from gas and the fumes it emits, when you plug it up the bike quits running because the carb thats hooked to that line is flooding the engine the float is stuck or has trash keeping it from working right take float bowl off to find out why please give us a rate

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

Anonymous

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Suzuki gs500 won't start

does the bike turn on .. like lights and all? does it role over but just wont fire? if lights and everything come on then it would be a tip over sensor. i had same prob, laid bike down going very slow... got it back up wouldnt start just rolled over if i rememeber right. turned the key of then back on and sensor had reset...... try disconnecting the battery for a few, then reconnect it and try it.

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

tombones

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: Bike won't stay running

Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each CARB float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Install new stock NGK spark plugs.

Remove the CARBS from the bike.
FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire
CARB with a spray CARB cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the CARB. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the CARB and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
CARB back together, clean the air filter and install the CARB. Install an in-line fuel filter. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.

BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT CARB one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT CARB one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS
Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both CARBS. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each CARB such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other CARB.

With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other CARB so that the slide on that CARB just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both CARBS begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.

Turn the idle screw on each CARB EXACTLY ONE HALF turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just balanced and synchronized your CARBS This should fix the problem. One last and VERY IMPORTANT thing, Have a fire extinguisher handy and ready for use any time you work on or with he CARBS.

Please rate this solution. Thanks throttlejock!



Posted on Apr 22, 2009

Anonymous

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: Hard to select neutral

Difficulty in selecting neutral is most likely due to clutch drag. Does the bike jump forwards when you select first gear? This could be due to dry or wrongly adjusted clutch cable. Another though less likely cause could be weak clutch springs or a worn clutch basket. Aim for about 5mm free play at clutch lever.

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

roadrunning1

Paul G

  • 161 Answers

SOURCE: oil leak from the front of the motor

Its funny you should mention this but yes, I had its bigger brother the GS 850 G , same problem, Apparently, in my situation I did the same thing and went to the shop and let those butchers make it worse !!!, the way i found my leak was by washing the motor with a grease and oil cleaner , strayed the whole motor and wash it all off totally, then I turn her on and let her get to operating temp went for a few mile and came back and checked it, for me it was the head gasket   the guys put on and i forced them to do it again,  I found out later that it was common with the suzi's of that model and ended up doing it myself, I used the original gasket and used a compound called gasket goo and it never leaked through out the 8 years i had it . But before you do anything , surly they gave you warrant y on the work so take it back and demand they do it properly.
Cheers and ride safe

Posted on May 18, 2009

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Hi, Bwilliams239 and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
14. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
15. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
16. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
17. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
18. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
19. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
20. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
21. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
22. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
23. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


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Hi, Ldeelena and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enrichner.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
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13. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
14. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
15. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
16. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
17. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
18. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
19. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
20. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
21. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
22. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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