Change stator change rectdfire bike still won charge where fuse for or realay for it

These bikes are known for blowing the stators. Really check the output.. Common issue- as same question on volusiariders.com scads of knowledge there

no not wiring harness! Unless the stator connector is unplugged.
check to make sure the charging fuse is not blown. Should be a 20A or 30A fuse.
When the bike is running test the battery to see if it is charging, should be between 13.25 volts and 14.5 volts.

You definately have a problem with your stator, while the bike is running it should be in the 13's or even low 14's,

there is a regulator rectifier assembly that rectifies the ac coming from the stator and then regulates the voltage to both charge the battery and run accessories and lights....if you can obtain a voltmeter, try starting the bike and measure the voltage on the battery..it should be about 14V DC with the bike running...if not then switch the meter to AC and check the leads coming from the stator(they are the leads that come out from under the clutch cover)...the measured voltage from the stator should be around 30v AC and will go higher when you rev the engine....if this voltage is not present then the stator is defective...if it is then the rectifier/regulator is probably bad...also, make sure that all the fuses are good

It sounds like your battery is not getting charged, so you're running your bike with a "total loss" electrical system. Your bike will run--for quite a while if the headlight isn't on--off the stored energy in a battery.

If this were a car, the immediate place to check would be the alternator and / or the alternator belt. With a motorcycle, especially one of this vintage, I would actually start somewhere else. One of the most common reasons that a bike will fail to charge is that it has developed ground issues. Double-check the negative cable attached to your battery. The other end most likely attaches to the engine or the frame with a big bolt. Look for any rust at that mounting point. You probably won't find any, or else the bike would never run very well, but it's an easy first check.

Charging problems I've had with older Honda motorcycles have often been with the voltage regulator or with one or more connectors in the electrical system, rather than with the stator itself. Trace the output wires from the stator to the voltage regulator, which is usually mounted away from the engine (it's often near the battery box or under a side panel). With the bike running, use a volt meter to check two things: (1) output from the voltage regulator; and (2) raw, unregulated output from the stator into the voltage regulator. A bad regulator may be putting out voltage that's too low, in which case the battery's stored energy is tapped to make up the difference. On the other hand, if you're not seeing ANY voltage coming out of the regulator, make sure that juice is being fed into the regulator so it has something to do.

If you're not seeing voltage on the input side of the regulator, the problem has been narrowed to the stator or to a bad connector in between the stator and the voltage regulator. I have seen a number of problems arising from low-quality wiring insulation used in 1980s bikes; it's much cheaper to fix that than to replace the stator in your bike. Alternatively, if you're seeing input voltage but not output voltage from your regulator, I'd suspect you may have found the problem. I believe, though I'm not certain, that Honda still used a mechanical as opposed to digital regulator on this bike, and those mechanical regulators do go bad. You can find used but warranted replacements for not too much money online; depending on how universal the regulator is (Honda used the same voltage regulator in all of its motorcycles from ~1971 through 1978), a brand new one may not be all that expensive, either.

A final, somewhat random thought is that you should also take your battery to an auto parts store to have it checked. A heavily sulfated battery will test out at 12.6 volts, but it won't be able to store its rated amperage. A battery like that may work well enough right after it's been taken off an external charger, but it won't have the amps to turn over the starter after it's been sitting for a while. This doesn't sound like what you're experiencing, which is why I didn't lead off my solution with this suggestion, but a weak battery will put a lot of stress on your charging system and can can lead to some odd symptoms.

Good luck!

Is the battery good. You should have a voltmeter to put across the battery terminals and it should read at least 12.5 volts if it is fully charged and not been on a charger for a few hours. When you have the bike running you should see around 14 volts when revved up a bit, if you see no voltage increase over the 12.5 volts then it means that the alternator is not charging and you will have to investigate that.

the stator is probably damaged, where the wires come out of the casing check for voltage when the motor is running (dis-connect them from the main wiring harness first) if no voltage stator is trashed, if there is voltage then check your regulator and rectifier (these you can remove from the bike and take to a bike shop and have tested)

First of all, when boost starting a bike from a auto make sure the auto is NOT running. The auto battery has more than enough power all by itself.

The most likely is 4) None of the above. The truck's charging system put more than 30 amps into the bike's electrical system and blew the fuse.

Get a new bike battery and fully charge it. Then go from there. If you really want to see if the bike will run before buying a new battery go ahead and hook up the cables to the truck battery and try it with the truck off.

A faulty alternator/regulator/rectifier should have no effect on the bike actually starting or turning over. Only the output of the charging system would be affected, possibly causing the bike to die when the cables are removed. My '78 Honda would not run at all without battery power, not sure if the Kawasaki is the same or not.

I have a generic answer for you, this is a problem with your charging system, alernator, regulator.
>http://www.drumhillcycle.com/index.cfm/Used_Suzuki_Parts/fuseaction/ListProducts/classid/37343<
this is a good site for used parts if needed. heres a site for a manual. >http://www.themotorbookstore.com/suzuki-tl1000-manual.html<
Now I would start looking for a blown fuse, then wiring to & from the alternator, which will be loacated in one of the side covers, (look for a bundle of wires going in) look at any plugs and the metal conectors inside for hot or cooked wiring. repost what you find.