Pressing the rear brake pedal does nothing.no pressure to it,have tried losening the bleed screw and pressing the pedal to see if any fluid squirts out but it doesnt. i was thinking theres either a blockege somewhere or the rear cylinder is shot. any ideas?

Here is the procedure from the manual:

1. Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid.

1. Place a box end wrench on the RH rear bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the RH rear bleeder screw and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.

1. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.

1. Loosen the RH rear bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the RH rear bleeder screw.
   • Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
   • Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.

1. Continue bleeding the system, going in order from the LH rear bleeder screw to the RH front bleeder screw, ending with the LH front bleeder screw.

Bleeder screws , If you haven't replaced the unit you don't need to do anything with them . Don't need to have the vehicle running , just bleed the brakes normally . If you have replaced the Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit you need a factory scan tool to cycle the unit solenoids
Important:
• Use the two-person bleed procedure under the following conditions:
- Installing a new Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) or new Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
- Air is trapped in the valve body
• Do not drive the vehicle until the brake pedal feels firm.
• Do not reuse brake fluid that is used during bleeding.
• Use the vacuum, the pressure and the gravity bleeding procedures only for base brake bleeding.
Raise the vehicle in order to access the system bleed screws.
Bleed the system at the right rear wheel first.
Install a clear hose on the bleed screw.
Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a container partially filled with clean DOT 3 brake fluid.
Open the bleed screw 1/2 to one full turn.
Slowly depress the brake pedal. While the pedal is depressed to its full extent, tighten the bleed screw.
Release the brake pedal and wait 10-15 seconds for the master cylinder pistons to return to the home position.
Repeat the previous steps for the remaining wheels. The brake fluid which is present at each bleed screw should be clean and free of air.
This procedure may use more than a pint of fluid per wheel. Check the master cylinder fluid level every four to six strokes of the brake pedal in order to avoid running the system dry.
Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure. Release the brake pedal between each test.
Bleed all four wheels again using Steps 3-9. This will remove the remaining air from the brake system.
Evaluate the feel of the brake pedal before attempting to drive the vehicle.
Bleed the system as many times as necessary in order to obtain the appropriate feel of the pedal.

The hydraulic brake system must be bled any time one of the brake lines is disconnected or air enters the system. There are two ways to bleed the system; pressure bleeding or manual bleeding. Both procedures will be given here, although pressure bleeding requires the use of some fairly expensive equipment (a pressure tank) and is seldom used. Both methods are equally effective.The correct bleeding sequence is: left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. On master cylinders equipped with a bleeder valve, bleed the master cylinder last.
PRESSURE BLEEDING

1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover, and attach the pressure bleeding adapter.
   
2. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
   
3. Check the pressure bleeder reservoir for correct pressure 20-29 psi (137-206 kPa) and fluid level, then open the release valve.
4. Fasten a bleeder hose to the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and submerge the free end of the hose in a transparent receptacle. The receptacle should contain enough brake fluid to cover the open end of the hose.
   
5. Open the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and allow the fluid to flow until all bubbles disappear and an uncontaminated flow exists.
   
6. Close the nipple, remove the bleeder hose and repeat the procedure on the other wheel cylinders according to the sequence.
   

MANUAL BLEEDING(see Figures 1, 2 and 3)An alternative to the pressure method of bleeding requires two people to perform; one to depress the brake pedal and the other to open the bleeder nipples.

1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, and then remove the cover and fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
   
2. To prevent squirting fluid replace the cover.
   
3. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
   
4. Install a box end wrench on the left front bleeder screw.
   
5. Attach a length of small diameter, clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw. Submerge the other end of the rubber tubing in a glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid. Make sure the rubber tube fits on the bleeder screw snugly or you may be squirted with brake fluid when the bleeder screw is opened.
6. Have your friend slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder screw half a turn and allow the fluid to run through the tube. Close the bleeder screw, then return the brake pedal to its fully released position.
7. Repeat this procedure until no bubbles appear in the jar. Refill the master cylinder.
   
8. Frequently check the master cylinder level during this procedure. If the reservoir runs dry, air will enter the system and the bleeding will have to be repeated.

Hope helps.

MANUAL BLEEDING

For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.

In addition to a length of clear neoprene bleeder hose, bleeder wrenches and a clear bleeder bottle (old plastic jar or drink bottle will suffice), bleeding late-model ABS systems may also require the use of one or more relatively inexpensive combination valve pressure bleeding tools (which are used to depress one or more valves in order to allow component/system bleeding). To fully bleed the late model ABS systems, a scan tool should also be used to run the system through functional tests.

1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid. To prevent squirting fluid, and possibly damaging painted surfaces, install the cover during the procedure, but be sure to frequently check and top off the reservoirs with fresh fluid.

CAUTION Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the system.

1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. Loosen the front brake line at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   
2. Have a friend depress the brake pedal slowly and hold (air and/or fluid should be expelled from the loose fitting). Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal and wait 15 seconds. Loosen the fitting and repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder bore.
   
3. When finished, tighten the line fitting to 20 ft. lbs. (5 Nm).
   
4. Repeat the sequence at the master cylinder rear pipe fitting.

During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.

1. Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir.
   

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.

1. On late model ABS equipped vehicles, perform the special ABS procedures as described later in this section. On 4 wheel ABS systems the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) must be bled (if it has been replaced or if it is suspected to contain air) and on most Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) systems the combination valve must be held open. In both cases, special combination valve depressor tools should be used during bleeding and a scan tool must be used for ABS function tests.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
      
   2. Left rear
      
   3. Right front
      
   4. Left front
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.

Be very careful when bleeding wheel cylinders and brake calipers. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it.

1. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
   
2. Loosen the bleed screw, then have a friend apply the brake pedal slowly and hold. Tighten the bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm), release the brake pedal and wait 15 seconds. Repeat the sequence (including the 15 second pause) until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
   
3. Tighten the bleeder screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm) when finished.

1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
   
2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
   
3. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Hope helps (remember to rate this answer).

Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.


For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.

1. Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
2. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
3. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   
   

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. Tighten the line connection(s).
2. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
3. Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
4. Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
5. Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
6. When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
7. Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).

1. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.

WARNING Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left rear
   3. Right front
   4. Left front
   
   
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
   2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
   3. With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.
   
   

During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.

1. While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.

Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.

1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
2. Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
3. Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.

1. Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.

1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
3. Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
4. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

on the brake calipers ther is a bleeder screw. It looks like a grease fitting.1) fill brake fluid 2) have a helper pump the brake pedal ( vehicle not running ) 6 - 8 times to the floor and release then press pedal to the floor and hold with foot pressure pressing down. 3) at this time loosen the bleeder valve and the pressure and air will release,( do not allow brake pedal to release or come up, continue to hold to the floor ! ) after pressure and any noticeable air bubbles and no more fluid comes out then this is the time to tighten or (close ) the bleeder screw. 4) continue this process untill no visable air bubbles are present, IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU CHECK THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR AFTER TWO BLEEDINGS AND FILL AS NECESSARY ! 5) Continue the procedure on the opposite side. Do the two front wheels and the rear wheels as a pair as the brake system is a two part system, FRONT & REAR

Bleeding brakes can be very frustrating.There are two ways you can do them 1 gravity feed;this means that you undo the bleeder screw on the caliper or the wheel cylinder and let the brake fluid flow until all air is removed from the system or 2 suction bleed; this involves going to your auto supply store and buying a small hand held pump that creates a suction which in turn,once connected over the bleeder screw,allows you to pull brake fluid and the air out of the system.If you have a friend to help you have them depress the brake pedal until it reaches the floor while you loosen the bleeder screw and discharge the air/fluid.Tighten the screw before the brake pedal is released,release the pedal and repeat.Keep checking the master cylinder and do not let the fluid run low.Don't pump the pedal repeatedly,brake fluid is hydroscopic,which means it can absorb air directly into itself.Slowly and firmly does it until you have purged all the air.You will know when it is all gone because hard pedal will come back.Good Luck

Did you open the bleeder screws at all. If not you may not need to bleed the brakes just pump the pedal to bring the caliper pistons out and your pedal should feel fine. If you just want to blled anyways open all your bleeder srews and as the fluid level in your brake master cylider goes down refill with new dot 3 brake fluid (do not alow the master cylider to drain completely). Close bleeders when you get clean fluid through. Start at passenger rear corner and have a buddy press the brake pedal down. open bleeder, close bleeder after squirt of fluid then have buddy release pedal. Do this a couple of time per corner. Go from pass rear to drivers rear then pass. front ending with driver front. You just flushed your brake fluid. Hope this helps.

The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

Try using a pressure bleeder. It will force the air out. Works every time.