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Patty Palmer Posted on Aug 12, 2011
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Won't start-If I take the positive battery terminal loose and the bike stays running does it mean the charging system is working?

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gavin jones

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  • Suzuki Master 1,508 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 12, 2011
gavin jones
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Yes but not recommended, as it may spike the regulator and cause it to stop charging.
Better to check battery voltage with a multi meter.
around 12v engine stopped , and will rise when engine is started and revved to 13 or14v

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1helpful
1answer

BIKE WON'T STAY RUNNING AFTER JUMPER CABLES ARE TAKEN OFF....

Sounds like the battery may be either low or shot. Place it on a trickle charger overnite to see if it will take a charge. Once you get the bike to run without needing jumper cables to keep it running, check the charging system. Easiest way to do this is to get a battery voltage reading with a multi meter before starting the bike. After the bike is running, place the meter leads on the battery and work the throttle to get the revs up to about 2000. Meter reading should be somewhere around 13.8 to 14.2 voltsDC. It not close to these readings, you have a charging system problem.
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My harley wont turn over

Instructions
    • 1

      Make sure the key and kill switch are both in the "on" position. Ensure that the proper starting procedures for your bike are followed. Is it in neutral? Clutch pulled in? Gas in the tank? Then try to start your bike. Does it turn over? If not, check to see that the battery is properly connected and the terminals are not corroded. If they're loose or dirty, clean and tighten them. Then, using a voltmeter that measures ac/dc and ohms, check to see that your battery has enough charge to crank the engine. If not, replace or charge your battery and try again. If it still doesn't turn over, there may be a loose connection between your battery and starter; a bad ignition or starter switchl or a bad safety relay. Check a repair manual for proper testing procedures for your bike, as each motorcycle differs.

    • 2

      If your bike turns over but doesn't catch, check to see that it's getting fuel. If the bike has a fuel petcock, make sure it is in the "on" (or, on certain bikes, "prime") position. Then remove the main fuel hose and check to see that fuel is flowing freely. If fuel isn't getting to the carburetor or injection system, your bike won't run. If that's the case, your problem is likely something in the fuel system. If fuel is flowing freely, reattach the lines. If it's not, check to see if the fuel filter is clogged, if a line is pinched or if the petcock is working properly. One way to determine if the problem is in your fuel system is to put a few drops of fresh gas into each spark-plug hole, replace the plugs and turn the bike over. If it starts and then quits, the problem is likely in the fuel system.

3
  • If you're getting fuel and the bike turns over but still doesn't catch or start, check the spark plug or plugs. Start by pulling off a spark plug wire, then removing a plug using the spark plug socket supplied in your bike's toolkit. Now inspect the plug. It should not be wet (usually caused by fuel, when the plug is not firing) or coated in carbon/burned oil deposits. Now check to see if the bike is getting spark. Although you can get a special, insulated set of pliers to hold the plug, there's a "quick and dirty" method for this: After reattaching the plug wire, lay the threaded part of the plug against the engine (not over the plug hole, as the spark could ignite any fuel that is blown out when you try to start it). Now, making sure you're not in contact with the engine or plug, hit the starter. You should see a nice blue spark. If you don't, make sure the threaded portion of the plug is touching the engine (but the electrode is not) and try again. If you still don't see a spark, you either have a bad plug or a problem with the electrical system. Check to see that all the ignition wires are properly connected and that you can't see any cracks in the wires. If the wires are cracked, they should be replaced. If you're still not getting spark, it's time to consult a repair manual or call a mechanic.

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    If you've got fuel and spark, ascertain that your bike is getting enough air. Start by pulling off the air filter. If it's too dirty, you won't get the proper mixture of air and fuel in the carburetor or injection system. If it's clean, check to see that the air box is properly connected-- a loose hose or air leak can feed too much air into the system. If your bike is equipped with a choke, ensure that it's able to move freely and is not stuck in the "on" or "off" position.

  • 5

    If you've followed these steps and still can't get your bike to run, call in an expert. If you think you've narrowed down the source of the problem, describe the steps you've taken to point the mechanic in the right direction.


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    Put in a new atl wont charge

    If both the alternator and the battery are good, either the alternator isn't turning fast enough (slipping belt or engine idle speed too slow), or you have a wiring problem.

    To check your wiring, look for the "1" terminal on the back of the alternator (left side of spade terminal connector). When you turn the ignition key to the run position without starting the engine, the alternator warning light should be at full brightness. If the bulb is burned out, the alternator will not get the excitation current it needs to start up (it goes through the bulb). With the engine running, you should measure 12 Volts at the 1 terminal (this is the excitation terminal).

    Another thing to check is whether the battery charge wire is good. If it is corroded inside at the battery clamp end or burned out, you won't get charging even though the alternator appears to be working. If you don't have an ohmmeter, you can make a quick test by adding a new 8 AWG wire between the output terminal and the battery clamp. If the battery now charges, the original wire is bad. If this works, I recommend installing an inline fuse at the alternator end no larger than the largest size used in your electrical system, just in case something happens to the jumper wire. That way you won't burn out your alternator.

    The heater/AC issue could very likely be a separate problem, but inadequate power may keep that system from running properly. (Note: low idle speed or belt problems will also be detrimental to AC performance.)
    5helpful
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    I have a 1984 dodge D150, not charging, battery is good,charges with charger\r\ntruck starts and runs pretty good,but is running off of battery, NEW altenater,regulator,and belts belts are tight,replaced...

    The first thing you need to do is stop wasting your money by replacing parts. Then get a volt-ohm meter and a test light to test the circuits between the battery, the alternator, the ignition switch, the starter relay and the voltage regulator. (a.k.a. Charging System Circuits)

    To start, the "B+" or "BATT" terminal on the alternator (large black wire) MUST have a solid, direct connection to the battery. Check for the proper voltage here. Then, the red wire on the alternator at the "F2" terminal should be HOT at all times. If not, you probably still have a bad fuse link that you missed. The "F1" terminal on the alternator (Light Green wire) is known as your "FIELD" wire. It comes from the "IG" terminal at the voltage regulator. It should be hot any time the key is in the ON position. If not, your voltage regulator is not working or your ignition switch is not providing power to the regulator. Finally, The "F" terminal (Red wire) at the regulator should be hot any time the ignition switch is in the ON position. This actually gets it's power from the starter relay, which gets its power from the ignition switch.

    Please also review these articles:

    What Else Could Be Wrong?

    My Car Won't Turn Over
    0helpful
    1answer

    THE BIKE WONT KEEP A CHARGE

    Remove the seat to access the battery.
    A loose battery connection will prevent charging, Tighten if loose.
    If tight, start the bike.
    Use a multimeter set on d/c volts or just a volt meter.
    Hook red to positive and black to negative.
    should read 12.50 volts - 13.50 volts at idle.
    Anything under 12.50 means not charging at idle.
    Rev motor to 2000 rpm. the meter should read 13.50 - 14.8. If the volts do not change, then your bike is not charging, Anything Higher than 15.0 means that your bike is overcharging, which usully fries the battery and blows the headlight fuse and/or main fuse.

    If over/undercharging, this means that the voltage regulator is bad.
    Before you buy another one, make sure the one you have is plugged in all the way and that the connectors are clean.
    I had a GSXR 750 that sat for a while and i had to clean every connector on the bike before it would run/operate like it should, so a dirty or loose connection should be checked first.
    Saves you a lot of money too because voltage regulators are usually over $100.

    If you do not ride for months at a time, your battery will discharge over time.
    a battery tender or battery charger is needed to keep the battery charged when the bike is not in use. Motorcycle batteries are not like car batteries, that seem to last forever. 4-5 years is about all you'll get out of a motorcycle battery on a motorcycle that is ridden alot.
    On a motorcycle that is barely ridden, won't last much more than 2 years if your lucky.
    Hope this information was helpful
    Best regards
    Big Al
    1helpful
    1answer

    The battery in my 1981 Yamaha xt 500 runs flat how do I check the magneto or charging system of the bike

    You will have to get a digital volt meter,Harbor freight has them for $2.00, other stores like Sears, Radio Shack, any auto parts store will have them for various prices, you just need a cheap one that measures volts. Hook the positive lead up to the positive battery terminal, and the negative lead to the negative terminal, read your battery voltage should be from 11.90 volts to 12. 98 volts. Start the bike and measure the voltage while running, voltage should go up to 13.5 to 14.8 volts. If the voltage goes up the bike is charging, if it stays the same as when it isn't running the bike is not charging.
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