Power Motorcycles - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Sounds like a fuel problem

It sounds like you are having an electrical issue. If your bikes system is not being supplied with at least 12.6+ volts, it’s starving to supply enough energy to maintain. Ensure that your charging system is working. Try putting some fuel injector cleaner through the system, as well.
It sounds like you may be picking up some trash, as well.
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First check battery cable to see if it's loose, then check fuses, then check grounds. Oh yeah make sure battery is fully charged.

1. Check your starter relay fuse. It's probably blown. If not that, (and you obviously have checked for power to the relay fuse when you push the start button, right?) then you should replace the starter relay. $10 to $20, 30 minute job if it's your first time.

Is there a fuse you can check

You may download a manual from the following site. Power Commander Downloads A free STDU Viewer which does a nice job of viewing PDF files exists. You may wish to give it a try.

Check the ignition coil. If the coil is tired it will break down, causing rough running and loss of rpm and fuel economy. It's possible that, without consistent spark maintaining sufficient rpm's, the charging system will also struggle which in turn affects other systems. Coils have an average lifespan of about 10 years before they fail to operate properly.

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I am wondering what you mean by a K&N intake? If you mean a K&N filter, they don't always breathe as well as the OE filter and it is important not to lose the cold boxing of the original setup. I am wondering if the performance exhaust included a higher flow CAT and an extractor manifold. If those two mods are the only changes you have made and assuming the K&N is breathing better and is properly coldboxed, etc. then clearly it is likely the engine with the original valve timing is unhappy without some air resistance at the intake/exhaust back pressure - such things often play an important role in the overall tune/performance of the engine. My initial instinct is to suggest you take it to a specialist and have the engine management remapped.

check for loose /broken wires around the head stock of the bike

test battery may may need replacement and check connections for loose

check globes and also check fuse - the location maybe in the engine bay in the relay box - sometimes fuse is located there instead of in car fuse box in passenger compartment.

Not to charge

Sorry I can't comment specifically but just wanted to mention most power wheelchairs use lead acid batteries, which is simple and old technology but they can behave strangely when approaching old age or when they begin to fail. In addition electronic circuits can behave oddly when the supply of power is insufficient. Testing each battery individually for state of charge and the ability to deliver sufficient current must be the first step in discovering what is wrong. It is also worth mentioning a lead acid battery must be kept in a high state of charge as if stored discharged they are likely to be permanently damaged after just a few weeks.

Only reason I ask this is because I have done this...are leads on red to + and black to -..

Have you checked the fuse box? If the fuses are ok, best thing to do would be to get a Voltmeter and go checking step by step, starting from the battery. Double check all connections (disconnect, clean with sandpaper and use contact spray) and check for possible blank wires that could be the cause of a short cut. good luck

Instead of being a H-D ick like you know who I would suggest that you start by checking your bulbs for resistance. Sometimes they look okay but the thin filament inside may be broken. If the front turn signals work, then your rear signals should work, so your push button and Flasher is okay. Check the wiring at the bulbs for voltage. Test the bulbs as you depress the turn signal button. Use the metal of the bulbs base for ground and check the other wire for voltage, if there is no voltage, you may have a bad ground at the base so attach the ground to the batteries ground. Still no voltage? Most likely there is an issue with the wiring towards the rear where the harness connects the positive line from the Flasher. If there is some voltage at the bulbs (assuming your battery is fully charged) then be sure to check for corrosion on the inside of the turn signals base and also where the ground wire terminates at the frame. Next, locate the wiring harness lighting circuit for voltage. There may be a break in the line leading to the bulb. There are 12 volt 'wiggies' that will help you locate a break in an electrical line.