2008 Yamaha Royal Star Venture - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check the link to a video below and press the helpful button Yamaha Star 1100 battery

Sounds like you have a hydraulic clutch (they use brake fluid). If you do then look at the clutch lever, which is attached the clutch master cylinder. Follow the hose to the engine case. Where this hose enters the engine case will be where the slave cylinder is. This is at the clutch assembly. There could be a small bleeder screw there for the purpose of bleeding the clutch. Be careful when doing so as bleeding a clutch can be very tricky and requires some skill. I hope this helps, Rod

Hi The back brake light is on, right. You need to check two things: 1 there is a spring and switch connected to the rear brake pedal. Just kneel down and look at the pedal and follow the linkage back to the rear brake mechanism. Somewhere there should be a connection (spring or wire) that goes to a switch. When you push the brake pedal down the spring or wire pulls a piece inside the switch that makes two contacts in the switch complete a connection that turns the brake light on. This switch must be free and working properly and not sticking as well. It also needs to be properly adjusted so that it will turn off and on at the right times. Most of the time this switch gives the problem. 2 Newer bikes have a switch on the front brake as well. Use the same theory and test procedure to test and fix. If it is a hydraulic clutch (they use brake fluid) there could be a Hydraulic activated switch, make sure it is working properly and not sticking. If the rear brake is Hydraulic there could be a mechanical switch or a hydraulic switch used. Sorry for the long answer. I hope this helps. Rod

the bleeding is done at the clutch terminal; pull the clutch handle while opening the bleeder, close the bleeder, release the handle. keep doing so until the air is out. Don't forget to refill the master cylinder.

They're built pretty friendly and assembled in a logical order. Trust your ability,as you put things together keep in mind someone assembled it on an assembly line in probably less than a minute so if you're tugging and pushing, fighting it; you may need to rethink it. Good luck.

Standard plug: NGK Iridium DPR8EIX-9, Gap .035 Optional plug: Denso Iridium IX24B, Gap .035 Bob If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_beef7390c57fac0d

Original pads are the best. I fitted non originals to the rear of my SV and the disc has worn a fair bit. The front discs show no wear and are on their 2nd set of original pads. Originals are pricey but the discs seem to wear less.

Remove radiator, take it to a radiator or sheetmetal shop and get them to solder the leak. Reinstall and add proper coolant.

Disconnect the battery and pry it open carefully. If it breaks it's not hard to replace.

I guess this is an electric one. If so, when you put the ignition "on" ( not run ) you should hear a "buzz" and then will stop. This is the fuel pump. If you hear nothing the pump is not working. Anyway, even if you hear the noise there could be another faults with the pump, but is difficult to be explained here. Describe your situation with the bike; maybe is not the fuel pump.

you have fuel pump run gas line direct to carbs inlet will run fine dont buy 400.00 dollar fuel pump from yamaha

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if & when you do get it running again, does the bike have a petcock at the gas tank? if it does, when the bike is running before you are about to park it for 2 weeks, turn the petcock off and let the bike die on its own (from fuel starvation). this will ensure there is (almost) no gas in the carb to cause any gumming. you can drain the little bit that is left with the carb bowl drain screw. then when you're ready to ride again, simply turn the petcock on, wait a few seconds for the carb bowl to fill, then hit the start button.

What's most likely happened is some foreign debris (dirt, rust, fuel varnish, etc.) has gotten stuck on the float valve seat. The first thing you should try is draining the fuel from each float bowl. Turn the fuel petcock off, then loosen the drain screw on the bottom of each float bowl and let the gasoline drain out (catch it in a clean container, if you can, so that you can see what's come out).
Usually, this is enough to clean out whatever is hanging up the float valves. Also, locate the fuel strainer, usually located in a bowl on the bottom of the petcock, and clean it. Installing an in-line fuel filter might help, too.
If this fails to improve the situation, then your next step would be to remove the carburetors and take the float bowls off. Plan on replacing each float valve and, while you're in there, take each float and shake it next to your ear, listening for any signs of liquid inside. Replace any float that has taken on fluid.
Finally, check the float levels. Basically you want the float arms to be parallel with the float bowl gasket surface, just as the little metal 'tang' makes contact - but does not depress, the spring loaded plunger on the end of the float valve. Carefully bend the tang to adjust the float level.

Typically, if the engine is "surging" there is a shortage of fuel, however, if the engine runs fine with the gas cap removed, the problem is probably a clogged vent in the cap itself. If you remove and turn over the gas cap, you'll notice two phillips-head screws sunk into the cap. Remove and carefully disassemble, noting the location and orientation of parts as they are removed. Clean all metal parts in an alcohol (or, though not recommended, gasoline) bath, wipe down gaskets and seals and reassemble.

There are circumstances under which the fuel pump does not appear to run - there is a fuel line pressure sensor that tells the pump to run if less than 2 p.s.i. pressure is detected in the lines. Under certain conditions (E.G. hot day, expansion in the fuel tank has already generated pressure in excess of 2 p.s.i.), you will hear a single click; the line is probably already charged. To test - remove the gas cap, let the bike sit a few minutes (preferably out of the sun), and turn it on again. The pump should function normally.

I had the same problem with mine but it happened at all temperatures. Traced it to the plug behind the fairing. Took it apart and cleaned it, applied die electric grease, and when I put it back together I used nylo ties to hold it together because of the strain on the cable when I turned the bars. Hope this helps you.

okay...the signal fuse powers horns, dash indicator lights (neutral, OD etc)
so all that is working fine?

the other common items are the wiring to the bulbs and the bulbs....doubt all 4 failed at once.

Looking at my wiring diagram, it looks like the system was designed so the hazard circuit and the turn signal circuit cannot be used at the same time, It appears that the common component to accomplish this is the Hazard Relay (not Hazard Flasher Relay). Basically the power to your Turn Signal flasher is fed from the Hazard Relay if your Hazard Switch is off, and when the Hazard Switch is ON, the Hazard Relay switches and cuts off power supply to Turn Signal flasher, and feeds the 4 turn signals for 4 way flashing.
So I suspect possibly either your connector at the Hazard Relay is loose, or the relay has failed
I'll try to find location for you, looking for a 6 wire connector with the following colours
Brown/White, Brown, Brown/Red, Brown/Green, Chocolate, Dark Green.

It may be under the right side cover....there is one flasher relay there...but will do some research.
You realize the Venture has a 5 year warranty?

Usually 35-40 MPG (US gallon) if driven reasonable.....about 175 miles and you will be looking to switch to reserve and find a gas pump.

Remove seat, fuel tank and its best to remove the strut between the top of the cylinder and the frame....looks like a dog bone.

It sounds like your battery is discharged, or you have a poor connection between battery terminals and the starter solenoid relay. You may have a loose ground connection on the frame too.
If you have a voltmeter, test the battery voltage you should have about 13 Volts on a fully charged battery.
If you see a severe drop pushing starter (below 9 volts) battery needs recharging.
If you see virtually no change in voltage....you have a connection issue preventing good current flow.