20 Most Recent 2008 Yamaha Royal Star Venture - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Original pads are the best. I fitted non originals to the rear of my SV and the disc has worn a fair bit. The front discs show no wear and are on their 2nd set of original pads. Originals are pricey but the discs seem to wear less.

Four spark plugs, one per cylinder; the rears may be removed with a 3/8" socket wrench, a 4" extension and a 12mm spark plug socket; the fronts require removal of the motor mounts, do one side at a time with the same tools you used in the rear. The motor mounts require an 8mm allen wrench.

Remove radiator, take it to a radiator or sheetmetal shop and get them to solder the leak. Reinstall and add proper coolant.

Disconnect the battery and pry it open carefully. If it breaks it's not hard to replace.

I guess this is an electric one. If so, when you put the ignition "on" ( not run ) you should hear a "buzz" and then will stop. This is the fuel pump. If you hear nothing the pump is not working. Anyway, even if you hear the noise there could be another faults with the pump, but is difficult to be explained here. Describe your situation with the bike; maybe is not the fuel pump.

you have fuel pump run gas line direct to carbs inlet will run fine dont buy 400.00 dollar fuel pump from yamaha

ok rate these and get your solution

if & when you do get it running again, does the bike have a petcock at the gas tank? if it does, when the bike is running before you are about to park it for 2 weeks, turn the petcock off and let the bike die on its own (from fuel starvation). this will ensure there is (almost) no gas in the carb to cause any gumming. you can drain the little bit that is left with the carb bowl drain screw. then when you're ready to ride again, simply turn the petcock on, wait a few seconds for the carb bowl to fill, then hit the start button.

What's most likely happened is some foreign debris (dirt, rust, fuel varnish, etc.) has gotten stuck on the float valve seat. The first thing you should try is draining the fuel from each float bowl. Turn the fuel petcock off, then loosen the drain screw on the bottom of each float bowl and let the gasoline drain out (catch it in a clean container, if you can, so that you can see what's come out).
Usually, this is enough to clean out whatever is hanging up the float valves. Also, locate the fuel strainer, usually located in a bowl on the bottom of the petcock, and clean it. Installing an in-line fuel filter might help, too.
If this fails to improve the situation, then your next step would be to remove the carburetors and take the float bowls off. Plan on replacing each float valve and, while you're in there, take each float and shake it next to your ear, listening for any signs of liquid inside. Replace any float that has taken on fluid.
Finally, check the float levels. Basically you want the float arms to be parallel with the float bowl gasket surface, just as the little metal 'tang' makes contact - but does not depress, the spring loaded plunger on the end of the float valve. Carefully bend the tang to adjust the float level.

It sounds like your battery is discharged, or you have a poor connection between battery terminals and the starter solenoid relay. You may have a loose ground connection on the frame too.
If you have a voltmeter, test the battery voltage you should have about 13 Volts on a fully charged battery.
If you see a severe drop pushing starter (below 9 volts) battery needs recharging.
If you see virtually no change in voltage....you have a connection issue preventing good current flow.

Typically, if the engine is "surging" there is a shortage of fuel, however, if the engine runs fine with the gas cap removed, the problem is probably a clogged vent in the cap itself. If you remove and turn over the gas cap, you'll notice two phillips-head screws sunk into the cap. Remove and carefully disassemble, noting the location and orientation of parts as they are removed. Clean all metal parts in an alcohol (or, though not recommended, gasoline) bath, wipe down gaskets and seals and reassemble.

There are circumstances under which the fuel pump does not appear to run - there is a fuel line pressure sensor that tells the pump to run if less than 2 p.s.i. pressure is detected in the lines. Under certain conditions (E.G. hot day, expansion in the fuel tank has already generated pressure in excess of 2 p.s.i.), you will hear a single click; the line is probably already charged. To test - remove the gas cap, let the bike sit a few minutes (preferably out of the sun), and turn it on again. The pump should function normally.

I had the same problem with mine but it happened at all temperatures. Traced it to the plug behind the fairing. Took it apart and cleaned it, applied die electric grease, and when I put it back together I used nylo ties to hold it together because of the strain on the cable when I turned the bars. Hope this helps you.

okay...the signal fuse powers horns, dash indicator lights (neutral, OD etc)
so all that is working fine?

the other common items are the wiring to the bulbs and the bulbs....doubt all 4 failed at once.

Looking at my wiring diagram, it looks like the system was designed so the hazard circuit and the turn signal circuit cannot be used at the same time, It appears that the common component to accomplish this is the Hazard Relay (not Hazard Flasher Relay). Basically the power to your Turn Signal flasher is fed from the Hazard Relay if your Hazard Switch is off, and when the Hazard Switch is ON, the Hazard Relay switches and cuts off power supply to Turn Signal flasher, and feeds the 4 turn signals for 4 way flashing.
So I suspect possibly either your connector at the Hazard Relay is loose, or the relay has failed
I'll try to find location for you, looking for a 6 wire connector with the following colours
Brown/White, Brown, Brown/Red, Brown/Green, Chocolate, Dark Green.

It may be under the right side cover....there is one flasher relay there...but will do some research.
You realize the Venture has a 5 year warranty?

Usually 35-40 MPG (US gallon) if driven reasonable.....about 175 miles and you will be looking to switch to reserve and find a gas pump.

Remove seat, fuel tank and its best to remove the strut between the top of the cylinder and the frame....looks like a dog bone.

Follow your clutch from the Clutch Master Cylinder hydraulic hose all the way down to the Clutch Slave unit,,,The bleeder niple is right on the back of it,,,It may be covered with a black rubber cover.,,hope this helps.

look here for a manual


http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/index.php

Look here for a manual. Choose the closest one and it will do.

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/index.php?cid=12

Jerry ,
An alligator clip is not required . just connect your terminals the right way . The red ( positive ) to the positive + on the battery terminal and the negative to the - of the battery . Please ensure to have the ignition turned off while you are charging the battery of you may " cook " some relay or CDI unit which is the main brain of the ignition system . Make sure to have good contact between the charger and the battery . The best way to recharge a battery is to disconnect the terminals from the bike to the battery and connect the charger alone to the battery to avoid any damage . Best of luck with that

When the bike is in the higher gears that is when the most load is on the clutch. If the bike is slipping it may be due to wear on the clutch components. One quick check is to smell the oil and if the oil smells burnt it is slipping and may do more damage if continued to be ridden. The hydraulic master cylinder should also be checked for proper operation. If you are towing a trailer and / or riding two up a lot it also puts more load on the clutch. You should also be aware that many synthetic oils like Mobil 1 are not rated properly for a wet clutch system. They are simply to slick. Your owners manual indicates that any oil that you use should be Jaso MA rated. That is compatible with wet clutches.
I hope that this helps.
Steve