20 Most Recent 2007 Yamaha Royal Star Tour Deluxe Questions & Answers

Check if any wire is bare from the vibrations.

make sure they are the right plugs, i have had many a yamaha rider swear they put the right plugs in and found out that they used the wrong resistance plug. there are two types of plugs, resistor and non-resistor, if you use the wrong type the bike will idle fine and even run ok at low rpm, but as soon as you throttle on, it sputters and wants to die, check that first and repost.

Sounds like it jumped time mechanically. Keep in mind young men with Daddy's bike want to show off and be a badass. Having said that the motor was probably revved up and over into the red line and treated like hell bent for leather. A hard backfire can cause a connecting rod to be bent. The engine was most probably also very hot when it hit the water... oh ! STUFF. Cracked something? I hope not. If the bike is your baby, I suggest a complete dis-assembly and inspection before something breaks and causes more serious damage.

i love this

hi, it ssound like a bad cilinder head gasket .u must check it ASAP

never leave a bike in hard rain-water was forced into carb areas like the air jets and now its runnin rich causing incomplete burnin--need to take it off engine and dry it out-and air blower from a tank works-but if bad disasemblys in order

The front tire can be removed (motorcycle on lift) without loosening calipers or any other parts once axle shaft has been withdrawn; after the tire has been changed and the wheel and axle shaft is back in place, torque for the axle nut is 58 ft.-lbs (78 nm) and the pinch nut is 14 ft.-lbs. (19 nm). FYI - bolts for the caliper should be torqued to 30 ft.-lbs. (40 nm) as a precaution.

This is a surprisingly simple job, even easier if you have a lift. Remove the saddlebag on the right (throttle or rear brake pedal) side of the bike.I recommend doing it now because the bike is more stable on the sidestand; you will have to exercise considerable caution once it's on a lift, or the rear tire is otherwise elevated. There are two different length screws (three shorter, one long), a spacer, a variety of stand-offs, and a variety of rubber isolators and washers. Remove the parts (two mounts in the floor, two in the back toward the frame) but KEEP TRACK of where the parts come from, and in what order you remove them. (You're gonna hear this a lot, but replacing a part lost or misplaced prior to reassembly, or having to dismantle and reassemble the bike because things don't fit right is a LOT more aggravating).

The rear caliper and brake disk are now exposed. Remove the two hex head bolts holding the caliper to the caliper arm, lift the caliper off the disk, and gently lay the caliper outside the arm. If you've already changed the hoses to the stainless-steel reinforced type, you needn't be too careful; if you're using the hoses the bike came with, take exceptional care not to nick or cut the hose. Examine the axle on that side of the bike, CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY noting the location of spacers and washers; when it's reassembled, you'll have to duplicate what you're looking at right now.

Prior to lifting the bike, loosen (but do not remove) the self-locking nut on the opposite side of the wheel (on the outside of the final drive unit) and the pinch nut at the end of the swingarm on the caliper side. Now, lift the bike, making sure the rear wheel is suspended and unobstructed to both the right and rear. Remove the nut from the side of the final drive and extract the axle shaft. It doesn't want to move? You're left with two choices - grasp the end of the axle shaft outside the swingarm with a pair of Channelocks or some other toothed, clamping device, and twist until it loosens and comes out - OR - remove the other saddlebag and use a 3/8 extension or extensions to tap the axleshaft through. I do not recommend the Channelocks - the scoring of the axleshaft is permanent and UGLY; if you think it looks bad after the shaft is out, wait until the RUST sets in...

With the axleshaft out, the wheel is probably hanging askew between the swingarm and the final drive unit, and there's an assortment of spacers and washers lying on the ground. Move the loose bits out of harms' way, GENTLY move the wheel toward the swingarm, and it should drop to the ground, and roll out beneath the fender. BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET DEBRIS GET ONTO THE EXPOSED DRIVE SPLINE ON THE FINAL DRIVE, THE MATING SPLINES IN THE WHEEL, OR INTO THE BEARINGS. Those areas are really, really, really difficult to adequately clean after they've been contaminated. It's a good idea to lubricate the drive splines in the rear wheel and the mating shaft in the final drive while the rear wheel is out.

Reassemble in the reverse order, torque specifications for the axle nut - 110 ft.-lbs. (150 nm), for the pinch nut on the swing arm - 17 ft.-lbs (23 nm). Bolts for the caliper should be torqued to 30 ft.-lbs. (40 nm).

You didn't mention where the fuel is coming from, so I'll start from the fuel pump; if it's not leaking with the key off, it has to be between the fuel pump and the carburetors.

First, remove the driver's seat, then the left side cover (it's the color matched cover under the front seat; it's held on by one bolt, the one toward the back of the motorcycle, and a friction pin through a grommet on the inside of the side cover, low and toward the center of the bike). Next remove the center cover, held on by pins and grommets on both sides. You've now exposed the fuel pump and filter, you can see the supply line from the fuel tank to to the pump, the output of the pump to the filter, and the line from the filter back toward the carburetors.

Check all exposed hoses and clamps for cracks, tears or loose connections. If none are evident, turn on the key; you should now be able to detect the source of the leak IF it's in the vicinity of the fuel pump and filter. The pump puts out 2-3 lbs. of pressure; a leak in that area should be obvious.

If you've detected no leakage there, reinstall the center cover, then the left cover, and proceed to the vicinity of the fuel tank and engine. Remove the fuel tank mounting bolts (there are two under the front of the tank, through tabs on the underside of the tank to the sides of the frame; there is also a bolt through a special washer and rubber insulator to the top of the frame at the rear of the tank. Lift the tank enough that you can see the fuel feed lines on both sides, as well as the fuel supply line from the fuel pump and filter. Examine lines on both sides, looking for cracks, tears of loose connections. Turn on the key, a leak in this vicinity should be immediately evident.

If none of the supply lines are leaking, the carburetors will have to be removed individually and checked for stuck needles, bad floats, or leaks in the carburetor housing. Those leaks, however, are typically sufficiently small that they would not be described as "gasoline pouring out".

Change your exhaust system. The cheap way is to knock out some baffles, but a different system will give it an up-market sound.

oil filter air filter or fuel filter? go to stadium yamaha website check out OEM parts for your bike and you will see exactly where it is

You need to hold down both the reset and the select buttons until the clock starts flashing. Then push the select button to adjust the hour. Then push the reset button to make the minutes start flashing, push the select button to adjust the minutes. Once you have the time set correctly, push the reset button one more time. You should be done.

hi baby *****