Top 20 2007 Yamaha V Star 1100 Custom Questions & Answers

Check for clean, corrosion-free wiring connections (especially at the battery) and don't forget grounds! They are as important as the hot side. You may find this to be of help: http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/VS-1100-chagre-syst.pdf Good luck!

no, it\'s ignition timing is out, too retarded, needs to be advanced.

i just average joe, but i vote broken ring...sorry pal.. i recently repaired a bike...same thing was happening...in my case, the thing just had too much oil in it , so much so that it was backing into carb...jus a thought

Sounds like the carb(s) are gummed up and have clogged passages. A thorough cleaning should solve your problem. Note: don't use steel objects to clean the jets since they will enlarge them and will only end up compounding the problem. I've had success with wood and copper wire.

When you first turn the key on, you should hear the fuel pump come on and build pressure - it will be a ticking noise. When the pressure is low the pump will run continuously, when the pressure comes up, the ticking will slow down and the pump will stop. The fuel pump is located behind the lowest cover on the left side of the bike - but you can hear it normally with the cover in place. If it's not working, check the fuse - it's in the same area as the pump if I recall correctly.

Also - check your fuel filter - it's under the seat behind the first plastic cover you'll see when you take the seat off.

If none of that works, you might want to drain the tank and pull the petcoc(k) and check the filters on it.

Scott

You can use it if it is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil but if you drive your cycle in warm weather the thin oil will burn off the cylinder walls. In other words keep an eye on the oil level or you may find yourself a quart low. It is not worth the minor horse power increase of thin oil to risk running low on oil in hot weather. If your driving in Canada or Norway in winter it should work great.

Same gas? Make sure your gas is fresh.
Overall though the bike is still not getting fuel like it should. Something is not clean.
Start at the tank and make sure it flows plenty of gas. Some have screens in the bottom that can get dirty.
Next check the fuel filter and change it if you haven't in a while.
Make sure the fuel line flows plenty of fuel from the tank to the carb.
Next the carbs need stripped and soaked in cleaner. Every little passageway needs checked. You should not need to change float levels or mess with Idle air.
Make sure the choke circuit is working.
If you go through each step above starting with fresh gas it should work. If it doesn't you will have to take it to a repair shop. Taking it to a shop that specializes in bikes makes it their problem. OR you could just buy a replacement carb. Personally I think a very though clean job that includes a carb gasket kit and blowing all the passsages out and rodding them with piano wire if necessary will do the job.

The front fork needs to be tightened by bringing the sleve(hollow tube extending from the center of the fork where its attached to the handle. As the bears wear down the gap between the two increases and the front wheel makes a clicking sound when going over small bumps/holes. Tighten the upper nut a few notches but ensure that the handle is not too tight and its rotation to left & right is free, just the gap been reduced so that there is play between the two.........................sodeep

Once your bike and the oil warms up crevasses can become more leak prone and oil becomes less dense making it easier for it to find its way through open spots. I would get the bike warm and then with the bike still running do a close up inspection to search for the trouble spot. Hopefully its just a top end gasket which has usually been the case with me.

is fuel getting to the plugs ? should be wet after several tries to start ! ? if not then clean the carb !

Did you try 2 new sparkplugs?

Kick stand switch may be the problem, if the kick stand is down and clutch out it wont start, sometime this switch will play up and it can be bypassed.

check the spark plugs are ok and the plug caps resistance are in tolerance as they are resister caps and if they are failing they reduce thd spark power ! i had this on a kawasaki 900 once ! also how old is the fuel as after 5mths its no good as it goes off ! carbs could be dirty also another area to look at ! clean connections on coil wires ?

yes. if you know it the regulator,replace it==ride on

Below the battery panel is a frame panel, remove this and you'll be presented with the reg/rec... A good idea is to see if its earthed to the frame as this can cause problems ifs its broken or loose.

Definite misfire. Does not sound fuel related. Check for bad plugs or wires. Ignition module and crank sensor.

Instructions

1. • 1 Remove the seat by unscrewing the bolts found on the four corners of the seat. Remove the clamps from the top of the air box using a pair of pliers to access and remove the air filter. The air filter is removed by unscrewing the wing nut and sliding the filter out of the box. Loosen the hose clamp that connects the carburetor to the intake manifold, using a screwdriver.
   • 2 Loosen the fuel delivery hose clamp with a screwdriver and pull the carburetor out of the Blaster. Before troubleshooting the carburetor, it's important to note whether you've made a significant change in altitude or a change in your exhaust/intake setup. If you've made an altitude change, installed an aftermarket exhaust pipe or modified your air box, the jets will need to be changed. Refer to your manual for specific re-jetting instructions based on your altitude. Your exhaust kit will provide a recommended jetting setup. Do-it-yourself modifications like removing an air box will require you to experiment with the jet setup until you find the right one.
   • 3 Disassemble the carburetor by unscrewing the bowl screws from the bottom of the carburetor. With the bowl removed, the float, pilot jet and main jet will be exposed. To remove the pilot and main jet, unscrew them from their respective holes. The main jet will sit in the exact center of the bowl, while the smaller pilot jet will be set just below the main jet. Use a blunt object like a stick or rod to push the bottom of the needle receiver assembly out of the carburetor. The needle receiver (which houses the needle jet) will slide out of the top of the carburetor along with the slide, spring, carburetor cap and gasket. The carburetor is now completely disassembled and ready to be inspected.
   • 4 Inspect the pilot jet for blockage, slide a thin wire through the pilot jet's hole, spray it with carburetor spray and blow the center hole with compressed air. Repeat this process with the main jet. If there is any blockage or wear, replace the jets. If you have made altitude changes or exhaust/intake modifications, insert jets that correspond to your changes as recommended in your manual. Note that this may take some experimentation with different jets to get the correct jet setup, as there are many jet sizes for different scenarios.
   • 5 Inspect the bowl, floats and ports for any signs of debris or gunk. If debris or gunk is found, remove it using a spray carburetor cleaner, soft wire brush, or thin wire (to insert into small orifices). If no gunk or debris is found, you've ruled this out as a possible cause for the starting issues, and can focus on the replacement of carburetor components.
   • 6 Look for abnormal wearing on the jets, float valve, gaskets, O-rings and springs. If you have not changed altitude or modified your bike in any way, then it is best to inspect these components. Any one of these components, or a combination, may be contributing to your starting issues. You may choose to replace individual parts such as a new float valve, though replacing all the interior components with a carburetor "rebuild kit" is advised. Rebuild kits can be ordered online or through your dealer, and will ensure your carburetor is fully repaired.
   • 7 Slide the gasket, spring, spring holder and needle jet assembly back onto the carburetor cap and insert the assembly into the top of the carburetor. Screw the main jet into the bottom of the needle jet assembly by accessing it through the bowl area. Screw the pilot jet back into its hole below the main jet. Clip the float valve onto its hinge within the bowl a insert the bowl gasket. Screw the bowl to the bottom of the carburetor to complete the re-assembly process.
   • 8 Re-attach the carburetor to the intake manifold using the hose clamp and screwdriver. Slide the fuel feeder line onto the brass receiver port on the side of the carburetor and slide the air box boot over the carburetor's intake port, which should be facing toward the back of the bike. Re-install the air filter with its wing nut, slide the clips over the air box top to secure it to the box and slide the seat into place. Re-install the seat screws to complete the re-assembly process.
   • 9 Prime the carburetor by twisting the throttle once and start the Blaster.

what kind of fuel system carb throttle body fuel injection

If you have power to the horn, then the problem is the horn button or wiring to the horn button.
The horn is supposed to work when earthed out by the horn button.
If there is power to the horn it has already passed through and relay or fuse

hi, check your spark plugs (theese must be replaced every 10.000 kms)