18 posts - 9 authors
I start the bike in neutral with the clutch pulled in, then I shift into first and it will kill ...bike, if you put the bike in gear and try to roll it (even with the clutch lever pulled ...Started it back up, gave it enough throttle to keep it from stalling, put it in 1st, ... I continue to change the oil in my clutch but almost immediately it turns white.
roadstarclinic.com > Forum List > Technical Corner > Maintenance
Jun 17, 2014 - 10 posts - 8 authors
My 99 Roadstar has the habit of always shutting off when I knock it into first ... pull in the clutch and put it in first gear the bike lunges forward and shuts off. ... Hold thefront brake ALWAYS when shifting a cold bike into first. ... What I do on cold starts is to select first gear with the motor off, pull the clutch in and ...
Jul 21, 2014 - It's easy to assume the worst when your bike isn't opperating perfectly, ...Where's my ignition! ... First, ensure the battery is good and that the engine turns over.... Try starting with the kickstand up, clutch in, and bike in neutral and see if the ...goes away most the time when the bike is put into gear or revved.
I have a roadliner and have the same problem,they only offer two differant bad tires for our bikes,the dunlop and the bridgestone,you could bump up to a 200/55/17 it will fit and wont change the geometry of the bike.I have been waiting for avon to make tires to fit the bike.I havent heard of the conversion to an 18in tire,will have to look into this.
from the pictures on google images, it doesnt look like a front wheel speedo drive. so my only other thought is its a Final drive speedo sensor, which is where the front roller for the belt is, inside that cover there will be a attachment from the casing to the roller itself. check to see if the bolt that attaches the roller has got damage to the head as if its turning with damage it may be the equivelent of rounding it off like with a socket.
they should be under your seat! if they are not then they are going to be under one of your side plastic covers (which should be also by your seat) those should easily snap unless there is a visible bolt holding them on.
Hope you find them!
I would think the valve set should last at least 100,000 km (60,000 miles minimum) would be in order. You should not have a problem like that unless your using bad/cheap oil or fuel with too much ethanol. Use only JASO MA rated motorcycle oil.
How to Re-Wire the Yamaha Passing Lamps for 5W Running Lights
The OEM passing lamps contain 2 bulbs, a 35W (in the upper portion) and a 5W (in the lower portion). The default behavior is for both lights to be wired together and be on or off at the same time, using the handlebar switch on the right control. Many people have re-wired the lamps so that the 5W lamp is on all of the time as a passing lamp, and the 35W lamp is then controlled by the handlebar switch.
The red wire that runs from the headlamp bucket connects to the 35W socket first then to the 5W socket. Cut the wire between the two sockets being sure to leave enough on the end connected to the 5W socket to solder a new wire to and tape up the end of the cut wire that is (still) connected to the 35W socket.
Run a new wire from the headlamp bucket to the wire connected to the 5W socket and solder/heat shrink the connection. I would recommend picking a wire color that it is not in use in the running light/tail light circuit or in the headlamp circuit so it is readily identifiable in the future (e.g. not brown, green, red, black, blue or yellow). That wire should be routed alongside of the red wire all the way into the headlamp bucket.
Solder the free end of the 5W wire to the blue wire (ie Y-spliced - the blue wire is the running light in your turn signal) coming from the respective side. I would recommend making the connection near the end of the run inside the headlamp bucket to give you plenty of slack in case you need it in the future (at least I did to be on the safe side).
At this point, reassemble and you're done. The 5W bulbs should come on as soon as the key is turned on. The 35W should come on after you start the engine and flip the passing lamp switch on.
You should not have to increase the size of the fuse for the taillight/running light circuit as it has more than 1 amp of headroom and you are only adding 2 x 5W (approx. 0.84 amp). I have had no problems with it.
NOTE: Connections do not have to be soldered. Splice connectors could be used, but soldering the connections is a much better long-term method.
Some basic rules I've learned and all of 20 minutes out of you life. People complain about valve noises or sluggish throttle response, well a crisp set of plugs firing does a lot to resolve these issues and for only $10 (standard plugs) is the cheapest performance mod going.
1) Replace your plugs annually (or at a minumum follow schedule of rear tire replacement) regardless of amount miles.
2) Plain and simple. Don't waste money on iridium because of #1 they spark the same it's just the tips that are suppposed to last longer.
3) Full removal of the tank is not needed but you will need to move it out of the way. Remove seat, remove center speedo and disconnect connectors, remove tank bolts, disconnect vent tube at the front portion of tank, lay a towel across the frame where seat normally goes, lift tank and turn tank sideways it will rest there without removing gas lines underneath, stock air box removal is not needed (BAK is even better for access), not certain what they mean by rider's seat bracket (at the back of the seat?) but obviously this is not needed either. There are wires zip tied to the frame that might need to be pushed out of the way or carefully cut the zip ties and just add new ones when done. (This just allows better access to get to the spark plug on right rear cylinder.)
4) A long screwdriver with small hose on end helps retrieve and reinstall plug on the front cylinder (unless you have very long fingers)
5) Go to auto parts store and purchase a socket with universal swivel for proper angle to losen or tighten plugs
6) A small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads is never a bad thing unless you use too much or it smears across the tips which would probably burn off anyway but that's just sloppy mechanics. (You want to be a sloppy hack like that, well you're outta the club... Go ride another brand.)
7) Use your hand never the socket to start the threads on the new plug. Place new plug in hole near cylinder and spin in reverse to align the threads then go in normal direction. If it does not feel correct at the start - never force it.
8) Do not over torque the spark plugs when tightening.
9) When reconnecting coil wires make certain you press down enough for a positive click to ensure proper connection.
10) Put tank and seat back in place and prepare for the response "why did I wait so long..." on the first ride...
Hope that helps.
I faced the same problem to a chinese made bike only to find out that the brake master cylinder rod at the pedal was not properly adjusted, it was too tight in and had no free play, so tht was activating the caliper., please try to adjust this first and then its not bad to totally overhaul the calipers ..please visit this site :- http://www.motorcyclistonline/caliperclean/index.html
Hope this helps!
