20 Most Recent 2006 Yamaha Stratoliner - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Could be tight tappets.

Check the Bulb for ground,you need a wire and fuse tester.OK.

Mate.Change the oil and filter at 12 months in perfect conditions or every 5000kms.Oil is a lot cheaper than metal from a motor.Hope this helps

hi,i am not overly familiar with these but it sounds very much to me like a carb problem.and very likely a carb balance problem(if the bike has carbs),the problem being that as the linkages and internal parts of the carb wears the carbs will be getting an imbalanced fuel and air load,its takes very little for the carbs to go out of sync,but when they do it will cause erratic running particularly at idle,or when as is your case coming down off the throttle to an idle,there will be isufficent mixture or fuel in the system to let the bike keep running,carb imbalance normally affects the slow speed circuit in the carbs more noticeably because of the low rpm,not so noticeable at high rpm as the carbs are getting plenty of fuel.If the bike is injected then it maybe that the butterflys in the throttle bodies have suffered the same fate,the linkages may have worn slightly allowing an imbalance to occur,or if injected(again)the fuel injection may need remapping,.road conditions are very hard to replicate in a workshop environment and your problem seems to go away once the mechanic touches the bike(its almost like the bike knows it is at the doctors),i would put my guess on the carbs being out of sync,get the dealer to put a set of gauges on it and see what happens,the adjustment only has to be out by 1/64 of a turn to be wrong...hope this helps..let me know how you get on...cheers..ian

The bearings in the rear wheel are sealed bearings and do not need to be packed, if they are making noise you need to replace them. Pull the rear wheel and drive the bearings out, and drive the new ones in.

sounds like a wire has come lose on the back winkers...bet they dont flash as well!!....thats were i would look..for a lose wire..on the back winkers. could even be a earth!!!
hope this helps...Howard

I am understanding you have a motorcycle in the driveway that you cannot start. The lights are probably operating as is the horn etc, but it just will not start. Is this correct? Please read all the way to the end of my comment. Thank you.

There is a "kill" switch (this is the street name for the switch, manufacturers call it something else, preferring to not use the term "KILL" on their product) on the handle bar. It is usually RED. It's purpose is to shut the motor off by simply pressing the switch into the "off" position. If this switch is not in the "RUN" position, your motorcycle will not start.

There very likely are other modern safety features on your motorcycle. For example, many motorcycles cannot be started "in gear" or with the clutch engaged or if the kick stand is not in the ride position.

Recap: If your kill switch is in RUN; your clutch handle is pulled in; your transmission is in Neutral; and the kick stand is up, it should start.

Beyond this, is your battery up to snuff? Have you ever seen the motorcycle operating? Can you check the voltage on the start solenoid STARTER SIDE with the key in the on position with the start switch depressed? Is your battery full? Should read 11.5 or higher voltage on a volt meter. Can you jump the start solenoid with a heavy cable? With a heavy cable, temporarly jump the two heavy wires connected to the start solenoid. Expect sparking. WARNING - MAKE SURE THE BIKE IS NOT IN GEAR IF YOU TRY THIS! Can you run a heavy jumper directly to the starter? WARNING - MAKE SURE THE BIKE IS NOT IN GEAR IF YOU TRY THIS!

Can you communicate with the owner? Has he or she been helpful with this trouble? Are they close by where you live? Or ... sadly ... are you stuck with this in a 'as is' condition?

This battery may be as old as six years. You can check it with a hydrometer (each cell) or a volt meter - each cell or the entire battery. Hydrometer reading should be 1200 or better (dont get acid on you or your bike). Battery voltage should be at least 11. V DC - ideally 12 or more V DC. Each cell should ideally read 1.5 V DC. If you feel this test necessary, you insert the probes one cell to the next using the posts for the connection on the end cells. Again, don't get acid on you or your bike and clean your probes after the test. Baking soda is the best for neutralising the acid.

Probably the best procedure for you to follow for the battery is to test using the posts. If it is not 11 or more volts at rest or 14 or so with the engine running, replace it.

I hope you get your motorcycle going. Ride safely. If you have not taken the Motorcycle Safety Foundation Basic Rider Ccourse, I encourage you to take it. Search 'Motorcycle Safety Foundation' for a location near you. For me, I have taught this course off and on, mostly off, since 1973.

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If you are talking on a stratoliner there is no trans oil. It is the same as the motor oil.

Remove the chrome bezel around the speedo (3 allen head screws). Raise it up and check that the electrical connections are seated at the front. You will see them when you raise up the chrome panel.

Hope this helps.

Autozone has specific manuals for specific bikes. You may have some luck there

I misunderstood, I thought your battery was discharging DURING the ride. Put your meter in current mode. connect one lead to the battery and one lead to your TomTom wiring while the unit is in the cradle. How much current is is drawing? Now remove the TomTom from the cradle. Is it still drawing the same amount? If not, the TomTom is drawing power even while off and that is draining your battery.

buy a service manual

take 2 shop! lol. there r sum things u just cant do,with out the tools, and the no-how!lol.

When you change to a non stock exhaust system and add new electronics, the bike needs to be hooked up to a diagnostic machine to map out new fuel delivery to compensate for the changes. It's possible that one or more of the changes you made will not be compatible with your camshaft profile, or fuel parameters. You may even need to have the engine dyno'd to see what's happening with the torque and horsepower curves.

why?

I would give them a call and see what they say. Yamaha Motors USA customer relations 6555 Katella Ave. Cypress, CA 90630 United States (Map) Phone: 714-761-7300 Fax: 714-761-7302 Toll Free: 800-962-7926