Hi I would change plug cap and check HT leads also check coil or coils and wire connections you some power at the coil or coils could be a bad connection but check the list ive had the same happen to me mine was a bad plug cap I think you will find it good look
If they did that, then they may have also wrecked the alternator and anything electronic (gauge head and ignition control module?) in the bike. It shouldn't have damaged the starter motor or the lights, though. Check & see if the lights work - try the brake light, that's easy. Headlight, too. The neutral indicator light should be OK.
If the lights work but none of the electronic stuff works, then try to avoid that friend when you have a bike problem. You'll need to trace power to everything electronic - anything with a circuit board inside - and verify whether that particular circuit board works at all, replacing it if it doesn't.
The alternator itself (the windings) should be fine, but the voltage regulator (probably inside the alternator but possibly a separate module) will likely be wrecked.
Nearly all electronic devices are sensitive to battery polarity, and can be destroyed if that polarity is reversed.
clean carbs ,fuel filter, air filter ,plugs , try adjusting carbs for fuel intake i had to mark mine where they are supposed to be adjusted at .i have a tendency to ride hard sometimes.they get out once in a while.
Find the starter solenoid and short across the two terminals, if the starter works you have a bad solenoid. If you hold the starter button and tap the starter with a plastic hammer and the starter works, you need new starter brushes. If anything else is wrong with the starter you need to buy a new starter no new parts are available.
if it's still fitted then connect across the main solenoid terminals with a spanner or screwdriver and it will turn over...if removed connect it to a battery with the body of the starter connected to the negative.
Very possible the one way starter clutch is about to go out on you, which is located behind the flywheel, Should be repaired by qualified service tech, as it requires removal of flywheel as it is attached to the backside of the flywheel, extensive repair, and expensive as well so be prepared.
Did the rebuilt start come with different size shims?
Did you experiment with different combination of these 3 shims?
====
Yamaha use power clips to hold down the stater gear and the reduction gear.
Did you replace these clips?
Weak springs is very common on Bendix system.
If the starter does not spin unless you tap it with a plastic hammer then you need new starter brushes. If the starter motor is spinning but the motor is not, then the problem is with the one way clutch that is attached to the fly wheel. The is damage in this case involves two parts the large starter gear and the one way clutch. if the mating surface of the large starter gear is not perfectly smooth then the clutch will not grab it to turn over the motor. Part numbers 2 and 6.
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2006-yamaha-xvs11awv/o/m8488#sch531535
SOUNDS LIKE IT IS TO RICH OR THE VALVES NEED CHECKED ALSO HAVE YOU INSTALLED PIPES OR TAKIN OUT BAFFLES,MAKES A DIFFERENCE,JETTING WISE ALSO STOCK AIRFILTERS ARE ****,GET ATLEST A UNI FILTER COST MAYBE 20 TO 30 OR K N.COST 50 TO 60 IF YOU GOT THE MONEY GET THE ARLEN NESS PACKAGE OR HYPER CHARGER,THOSE BIKES DONT BREATH WELLALSO CHECK YOUR TAIL PIPES ARE THEY WET OR ALOT OF RESIDUE.IF SO THAT IS SIGNS OF BOTH TO RICH OR CHOKING OR BOTH
ALSO THIS NEW GAS IS ****,WHAT I WOULD DO CHEAPEST,IS INSTALL NEW AIRFILTER,NEW PLUGS AND AT THE BOTTOM OF YOUR CARBS UNLESS FUEL INJ IS DRAIN SCREWS UNSCREW THEM UNTILL GAS DRAINS OUT AND RETIGHTEN IN CASE YOU BIKE HAS ANY WATER LAYING IN THE BOWLS,MAKE SURE YOU ARE IN A WELL VENTALATED AREA.,YOU MAY ALSO TRY TURNING YOUR FUEL METERING SCREWS A HALF A TURN AT A TIME TILL YOU GET YOUR LIKING,BUT YOU NEED TO TURN ,RIDE THEN READJUST
Something somewhere have been over lubricated with grease. No major issue. Just make sure that next time someone lubricate your bike chains, wheel, etc not to over do it.
Hi, 1. Get all the needed tools. Usually the tools present in your vehicle is sufficient. 2. Take a look around and analyze the bolts used to hold your wheel in place. 3. Locate the main axle and remove the bolt and then axle. Remove the other bolts as well which might help you to remove the wheel. 4. Keep track of the work you are doing as this is crucial to fix back the wheel to its position later.
As I do not own one of these bikes, I cannot advise from experience. I do know however the book will tell you. If you don't want to spring for the cost of a service manual, what I do is go to my dealer and they burn me a copy onto cd for $20. The only other thing you can do to verify it is look for an engraved arrow on the knob. If there is no arrow on it to show you where you are pointing, you are going to have to either ask someone that owns one like it, or ask your dealer. Personally, I would get the CD though as it will answer this and future questions regarding function and system requirements.
It sounds like the rear wheel is out of alignment, or loose. Could be a worn bearing. Torque is applied to the rear wheel as you accelerate, and lost when left off. If I am not mistaken, the rearend is set with a dyno machine at the dealer. Try putting the bike on a lift to get the rear wheel off the ground. Grip the rear wheel on opposite sides with both hands and lightly alternate pull right and left, and top and bottom. If you get any movement from the wheel, it is time for service as this is an indication of the bearings wearing out. If you recently had the rear end serviced, they may not have gotten everything tightened properly, or misaligned the rear wheel.
