First check that the drain plug may not be the source of your leak, if so replace the gasket and check for cracks in the carb bow. However, the most likely cause of the leak is a faulty or dirty needle and seat. Remove the carb and the float chamber and pull out the float and needle and seat. See if there is anything jammed in the seat and either clean this out or just replace the needle and seat assembly. If the float seems suspect, cracked or absorbed fuel that should be changed too. The total price of all the spares will be in the region of about $50.00
Just get a new gasket for the exhaust connection. Welding would be ugly, cause the area to rust quickly and lower the value of the bike when you sell it. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
Have you thought of the clutch itself. Normally a vehicle will have normal pulling power in the lower gears, but if the clutch is worn, it will start playing up in the higher gears. Try putting the bike in 4th. gear and letting out the clutch. The engine will be inclined to carry on running and not cut out if the clutch is slipping, either due to worn plates or weak springs.
The bearing for the clutch outer drum may be worn. The adjustment on the handlebars is to set lever free play(about 1/2 inch) before the cable becomes tight and operates the clutch release inside. Make sure the outer drum cover is tight--check with the clutch lever to make sure the plate releases the disks and plates.
Once something has heated up like this it usually does idle higher... just start it when its cold and set idle really low so its not idling high then when it heats up it will idle higher but not too high if you get what im saying.... best of luck
Yes you can. You will need to add a headlight, taillight, turn signals, and change the tires to street tread instead of knobby tires. Then you would need to get a license plate from your local Department of Motor Vehicles. It might be cheaper to just sell the YZ450 and buy a 2004 Yamaha WR 450 enduro. This motorcycle is ready to ride on the street and the dirt. Click on the link below to view the WR450:
check the fuel shutoff valve, make sure fuel is reaching the carburater, if your getting spark ,and your getting fuel to combustion chamber you have a compression problem (engineproblem).
Standard bike takes in 2.4L (mol). Whenchanging cranlcase oil always get into a habit changing your oil filter becaus the engine will be kepty in prime filtering condition. If you are not quite sure, query with rsrbob as Yamaha expert. Cheers
Find out what the tooth count on the rear sprocket was from the factory and see if you have a smaller sprocket than stock. THIS WILL BE FOR A FASTER TOP END. a larger sprocket will give more power /rpm less speed. GOOD Luck
Hi,
Please get it download in pdf and free at:
http://www.filecrop.com/yamaha-wr-450-manual.html
After you get online , choose file wr 450f, then download your manual
Total file is almost 18 MB.
Regards, vote please, Jay
Most likely you need pistion and valve work. Lets face it its a big powerful engine and the olny thing that should come out the pipe is exhust. And if your blowing oil out its going to be the hole nine yards at the top end and posibably the crank bearings or you are just wasteing money and time, SORRY i couldn't be more rosey but what is real is real good luck
Remove spark plugs. Insert compression tester pressure pipe against each plug hole in turn. Spin the engine for 15 seconds whilst holding the pressure tester in each plug hole. No throttle. The readings should be the same from each cylinder or at least within 1 or 2%.
start about 2 turns out.
while idling when you screw it in a bout half a turn the bike will begin to bog down (rich)
as you screw it out the revs will increase and become uneven(lean)
pick a point between the two where the idle is smoothest.
this setting can change with different engine tempuratures, and altitude
Typical chain slack should be about two inches from bottom edge of the chain to the top. Grabbing the chain in the middle (halfway from sprocket to sprocket) and moving it up and down. After adjusting , you should raise the rear wheel off the ground and spin the back wheel checking every 6 inches or so that the slack does not get tighter or looser. If the chain gets tighter as it goes around the sprocket it is an indication that the chain is stretched at that point and needs to be replaced.