2003 Yamaha V Star 1100 Custom - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Sounds like a vacuums leak. try spraying some QUICK START around the vacuums lines and anywhere else air can leak into the induction system.

Hi Anonymous: Is it possible that the kickstand safety switch is engaged?

Under the panel above the battery, which is under the seat

Go to a dealer and order & buy a service manual Please do not live in the world of free Obtain the required reference materials BEFORE you start any work on any product

Only running good with the choke on is an indicator that the bike is normally running too lean. The fact that it runs good with the choke on at least tells me it is getting fuel to the carb(s). Therefore it seems probable that there is clogging in the carburetor jets or there is a big air leak between the engine and carb(s).

Here is your solution. The assembly you replaced likely used a double contact bulb, like an 1157.(very common brake light bulb) and the after market you got is only a single contact. If you look at an 1157, you will notice 2 filaments inside. One for full time on, and 1 for bright side switched(brake). If your new light only has one contact, then it is either going to be light full time on, or switched light. The bulb might not be compatible with your bike. Hope this helps.

starter motor is not throwing the clutch as it should i would suggest taking it out and cleaning it or replacing the motor completly

hope this helps

John

SOUNDS LIKE THE BATTERY IS GETTING OLD, THEY NORMALY LAST ABOUT 3 YEARS WITH CONSTANT USE, DO YOU HAVE AN ALARM THAT MAYBE DRAINING THE CHARGE OFF IT? YOU SHOULD ALSO REMOVE THE PANELS LOCATE REGULATOR RECTIFIER, AND CHECK THE CONECTIONS AT THE BLOCK CONECTOR, SEPERATE THE BLOCK AND CHECK THE CONDITION OF THE CONTACTS FOR COROSION INSIDE, ALSO LOOK AT THE OUTER OF THE BLOCK WHERE THE WIRE GOES INTO THE BLOCK PARTICUALY AT THE RED WIRES AS THEY ARE PRONE TO COROSION, IF THIS IS THE CASE TAKE CARE NOT TO BREAK THE WIRE AND MIX THEM UP, CAREFULLY REMOVE 1 AT A TIME AND REPLACE WITH OTHER CONECTORS, JUST A STAB IN THE DARK HOPE THIS HELPS

Popping from the exhausts is common on V stars. It is usually caused by an air leak at the exhaust header. So check this by either check tightening the bolts & using a piece of hose(about 500mm long),one end in your ear, the other at the header(where it bolts to the head). Listen for exhaust leaks. If you hear any replace the header gaskets.A customer of mine very recently fitted 2 gaskets to stop his bike poping after fitting aftermarket pipes. If all this checks OK.Use the hose again to listen for air leaks at the carby inlet manifolds. Air leaks hear cause a lean mixture & can cause backfireing. Also backfireing can be caused by carburettor imbalance.
Hope this helps
Regards Andy

17MM DRAIN PLUG ON BOTTOM OF ENGINE, TOWARDS THE FRONT

it sounds to me like an electrical fault,check the sprk plugs and replacethem(if you havent done it already)see hoe it goes,then check the spark plug cap and make sure the cap is tight on the lead,most caps are a screw on type,if not this then it could be athe coil or lead are breaking down,in which case they would need to be replaced,hope this helps

Below the battery panel is a frame panel, remove this and you'll be presented with the reg/rec... A good idea is to see if its earthed to the frame as this can cause problems ifs its broken or loose.

Kick stand switch may be the problem, if the kick stand is down and clutch out it wont start, sometime this switch will play up and it can be bypassed.

is fuel getting to the plugs ? should be wet after several tries to start ! ? if not then clean the carb !

check the spark plugs are ok and the plug caps resistance are in tolerance as they are resister caps and if they are failing they reduce thd spark power ! i had this on a kawasaki 900 once ! also how old is the fuel as after 5mths its no good as it goes off ! carbs could be dirty also another area to look at ! clean connections on coil wires ?

Did you try 2 new sparkplugs?

yes. if you know it the regulator,replace it==ride on

Definite misfire. Does not sound fuel related. Check for bad plugs or wires. Ignition module and crank sensor.

Instructions

1. • 1 Remove the seat by unscrewing the bolts found on the four corners of the seat. Remove the clamps from the top of the air box using a pair of pliers to access and remove the air filter. The air filter is removed by unscrewing the wing nut and sliding the filter out of the box. Loosen the hose clamp that connects the carburetor to the intake manifold, using a screwdriver.
   • 2 Loosen the fuel delivery hose clamp with a screwdriver and pull the carburetor out of the Blaster. Before troubleshooting the carburetor, it's important to note whether you've made a significant change in altitude or a change in your exhaust/intake setup. If you've made an altitude change, installed an aftermarket exhaust pipe or modified your air box, the jets will need to be changed. Refer to your manual for specific re-jetting instructions based on your altitude. Your exhaust kit will provide a recommended jetting setup. Do-it-yourself modifications like removing an air box will require you to experiment with the jet setup until you find the right one.
   • 3 Disassemble the carburetor by unscrewing the bowl screws from the bottom of the carburetor. With the bowl removed, the float, pilot jet and main jet will be exposed. To remove the pilot and main jet, unscrew them from their respective holes. The main jet will sit in the exact center of the bowl, while the smaller pilot jet will be set just below the main jet. Use a blunt object like a stick or rod to push the bottom of the needle receiver assembly out of the carburetor. The needle receiver (which houses the needle jet) will slide out of the top of the carburetor along with the slide, spring, carburetor cap and gasket. The carburetor is now completely disassembled and ready to be inspected.
   • 4 Inspect the pilot jet for blockage, slide a thin wire through the pilot jet's hole, spray it with carburetor spray and blow the center hole with compressed air. Repeat this process with the main jet. If there is any blockage or wear, replace the jets. If you have made altitude changes or exhaust/intake modifications, insert jets that correspond to your changes as recommended in your manual. Note that this may take some experimentation with different jets to get the correct jet setup, as there are many jet sizes for different scenarios.
   • 5 Inspect the bowl, floats and ports for any signs of debris or gunk. If debris or gunk is found, remove it using a spray carburetor cleaner, soft wire brush, or thin wire (to insert into small orifices). If no gunk or debris is found, you've ruled this out as a possible cause for the starting issues, and can focus on the replacement of carburetor components.
   • 6 Look for abnormal wearing on the jets, float valve, gaskets, O-rings and springs. If you have not changed altitude or modified your bike in any way, then it is best to inspect these components. Any one of these components, or a combination, may be contributing to your starting issues. You may choose to replace individual parts such as a new float valve, though replacing all the interior components with a carburetor "rebuild kit" is advised. Rebuild kits can be ordered online or through your dealer, and will ensure your carburetor is fully repaired.
   • 7 Slide the gasket, spring, spring holder and needle jet assembly back onto the carburetor cap and insert the assembly into the top of the carburetor. Screw the main jet into the bottom of the needle jet assembly by accessing it through the bowl area. Screw the pilot jet back into its hole below the main jet. Clip the float valve onto its hinge within the bowl a insert the bowl gasket. Screw the bowl to the bottom of the carburetor to complete the re-assembly process.
   • 8 Re-attach the carburetor to the intake manifold using the hose clamp and screwdriver. Slide the fuel feeder line onto the brass receiver port on the side of the carburetor and slide the air box boot over the carburetor's intake port, which should be facing toward the back of the bike. Re-install the air filter with its wing nut, slide the clips over the air box top to secure it to the box and slide the seat into place. Re-install the seat screws to complete the re-assembly process.
   • 9 Prime the carburetor by twisting the throttle once and start the Blaster.

what kind of fuel system carb throttle body fuel injection