20 Most Recent 2003 Yamaha V Star 1100 Custom - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Below the battery panel is a frame panel, remove this and you'll be presented with the reg/rec... A good idea is to see if its earthed to the frame as this can cause problems ifs its broken or loose.

Kick stand switch may be the problem, if the kick stand is down and clutch out it wont start, sometime this switch will play up and it can be bypassed.

is fuel getting to the plugs ? should be wet after several tries to start ! ? if not then clean the carb !

check the spark plugs are ok and the plug caps resistance are in tolerance as they are resister caps and if they are failing they reduce thd spark power ! i had this on a kawasaki 900 once ! also how old is the fuel as after 5mths its no good as it goes off ! carbs could be dirty also another area to look at ! clean connections on coil wires ?

Did you try 2 new sparkplugs?

yes. if you know it the regulator,replace it==ride on

Definite misfire. Does not sound fuel related. Check for bad plugs or wires. Ignition module and crank sensor.

Instructions

1. • 1 Remove the seat by unscrewing the bolts found on the four corners of the seat. Remove the clamps from the top of the air box using a pair of pliers to access and remove the air filter. The air filter is removed by unscrewing the wing nut and sliding the filter out of the box. Loosen the hose clamp that connects the carburetor to the intake manifold, using a screwdriver.
   • 2 Loosen the fuel delivery hose clamp with a screwdriver and pull the carburetor out of the Blaster. Before troubleshooting the carburetor, it's important to note whether you've made a significant change in altitude or a change in your exhaust/intake setup. If you've made an altitude change, installed an aftermarket exhaust pipe or modified your air box, the jets will need to be changed. Refer to your manual for specific re-jetting instructions based on your altitude. Your exhaust kit will provide a recommended jetting setup. Do-it-yourself modifications like removing an air box will require you to experiment with the jet setup until you find the right one.
   • 3 Disassemble the carburetor by unscrewing the bowl screws from the bottom of the carburetor. With the bowl removed, the float, pilot jet and main jet will be exposed. To remove the pilot and main jet, unscrew them from their respective holes. The main jet will sit in the exact center of the bowl, while the smaller pilot jet will be set just below the main jet. Use a blunt object like a stick or rod to push the bottom of the needle receiver assembly out of the carburetor. The needle receiver (which houses the needle jet) will slide out of the top of the carburetor along with the slide, spring, carburetor cap and gasket. The carburetor is now completely disassembled and ready to be inspected.
   • 4 Inspect the pilot jet for blockage, slide a thin wire through the pilot jet's hole, spray it with carburetor spray and blow the center hole with compressed air. Repeat this process with the main jet. If there is any blockage or wear, replace the jets. If you have made altitude changes or exhaust/intake modifications, insert jets that correspond to your changes as recommended in your manual. Note that this may take some experimentation with different jets to get the correct jet setup, as there are many jet sizes for different scenarios.
   • 5 Inspect the bowl, floats and ports for any signs of debris or gunk. If debris or gunk is found, remove it using a spray carburetor cleaner, soft wire brush, or thin wire (to insert into small orifices). If no gunk or debris is found, you've ruled this out as a possible cause for the starting issues, and can focus on the replacement of carburetor components.
   • 6 Look for abnormal wearing on the jets, float valve, gaskets, O-rings and springs. If you have not changed altitude or modified your bike in any way, then it is best to inspect these components. Any one of these components, or a combination, may be contributing to your starting issues. You may choose to replace individual parts such as a new float valve, though replacing all the interior components with a carburetor "rebuild kit" is advised. Rebuild kits can be ordered online or through your dealer, and will ensure your carburetor is fully repaired.
   • 7 Slide the gasket, spring, spring holder and needle jet assembly back onto the carburetor cap and insert the assembly into the top of the carburetor. Screw the main jet into the bottom of the needle jet assembly by accessing it through the bowl area. Screw the pilot jet back into its hole below the main jet. Clip the float valve onto its hinge within the bowl a insert the bowl gasket. Screw the bowl to the bottom of the carburetor to complete the re-assembly process.
   • 8 Re-attach the carburetor to the intake manifold using the hose clamp and screwdriver. Slide the fuel feeder line onto the brass receiver port on the side of the carburetor and slide the air box boot over the carburetor's intake port, which should be facing toward the back of the bike. Re-install the air filter with its wing nut, slide the clips over the air box top to secure it to the box and slide the seat into place. Re-install the seat screws to complete the re-assembly process.
   • 9 Prime the carburetor by twisting the throttle once and start the Blaster.

what kind of fuel system carb throttle body fuel injection

hi, check your spark plugs (theese must be replaced every 10.000 kms)

The bike has a bad starter clutch. It could be gummed up or just worn out.

If you have power to the horn, then the problem is the horn button or wiring to the horn button.
The horn is supposed to work when earthed out by the horn button.
If there is power to the horn it has already passed through and relay or fuse

No compression can be a few different things, from a bad valve, a broken valve, or bad piston rings. You are going to need to preform a leak down test to figure out what is going on and what is causing the loss of compression in the cylinder.

INTAKE VALVE: 0.07 to 0.12 M.M. SAE: 0.003 to 0.005 ( Inside the V ) EXHAUST VALVE: 0.12 to 0.17 M.M. SAE: 0.005 to 0.007 ( Outside the V)

For a full set of instructions and online guide, go to this very useful site:
http://www.vstar1100.com/vs1100valves.pdf

If you meant 'rectifier' then this can be checked with any multimeter that has the diode symbol available that looks something like this:
??I?
Having a cheap meter at home can serve you well on car and home electrical problems and need not cost more than $20 US and can cost a lot less if you shop.
Using that setting on a common semiconductor such as a diode or bridge rectifier (made of 4 diodes) can verify its condition quickly. If you get (with many) diodes a reading of 500-700 in one direction and with the leads reversed an 'off scale' reading (looks like the probes are not connected to anything), it is likely that the part is OK.

have you check your spare tank?? you might be picking up trash from it. it sits on the right hand side under you seat. have you replaced your hoses? that could be another thing to look into, when the get old the start to break down and i have seen the inside of old rubber hoses fall apart. also make sure that you fuel pump is working right.
let me know if you have any other questions about your problem i'll be glad to help
M.Woodring