20 Most Recent 2002 Yamaha XVS 1100 Dragstar Classic Questions & Answers

yes, your assumptions are all correct. As for the (ignitor) i am not sure.... would (ignition) be a better spelling?? if so it is for the ignition system (power and ability) to start the engine. If not then I would have to bet that is for some aspect of the ignition system. You could also check the operator manual...if you don't have...do a search for manuals of for your specific model and year. they are all over the internet. Good Luck Jerry

Twisted bolts on the starter are never a good thing. There is also a one-way starter clutch on the crank behind the flywheel that can be damaged. If it engages intermittently, it's on its way out. Both the starter and starter clutch are prone to failure on VStars... and neither are cheap to fix. Hopefully your bike is still under warranty.

It has a starter clutch on the fly wheel. You will need to remove the left side case cove to access it. You will need to pull the flywheel with a puller as the starter clutch is behind the flywheel

We have changed a few bikes from standard pipes to drag pipes. Their is a few considerations here, sea level or at what altitude, how much back pressure. so my suggestion rather take it before fitting the pipes to someone with a dyno, run and record the test, then have the pipes fitted, and let the same shop to the test again on there dyno, they will then know what to do with the jetting, because you should achieve better results with your new pipes.

Air cleaner clean? Is it in fact warm (the engine) .

Id be inclined to let it warm a little more. Your hot bike has advanced time and as a result is difficult when cold.

Check the fast running jets in the carbs as they could be clogged.

wrong belt ,wrong pulley hope this helps?

If your charging system is working, you can disconnect the battery while it's running, and it will stay running. The stator assembly (Like a car alternator) will supply the current to keep the bike running along with charging the battery. A multi-meter should show around 12.5 volts at the battery with the engine off, and just under 14 volts running, under normal working conditions.

no you do not you can use a flex extention and a swivel to get them out

The power supply rectifier may be bad.

I can't say for sure but I would say it would be the opposite side to the disc to balance it out.saying that I have seen alot of wheels and never seen one like that,providing it is balanced it should not start handling like a Harley ,anyway it will always go better.;0)

The exhaust valve is stuck in the open position or does not close all the way, could be burned as well

rear 35-40 psi , front 25-30 . im a hard rider and im16st plus passenger on a VMAX but simular tyres !

start with checking your fuses, if all three running lights are not working (front two and rear running/brake) then it should be power related. if your fuse is ok check you bulbs, it's ez and quick.
if you haven't found your power it's time to get out the test light. Start at the fuse block and work way to the lights when loss power you found your problem. If your fuse is blown we now that something made it blow, replace the bulb (if one is blown) and turn on the bike with a new fuse, if blows test for ground on the power wire this the bike off. a multimeter on the ohm setting is the easiest way to do this. now this can take a bit it there is a short in the wire take your time and you'll do fine.
M.Woodring

Yes it tapered, it requires a special puller to remove

If the oil level is correct, about the only thing remaining is worn rings. You can try another brand of oil and use a heavier oil, but it will always come back to the rings having to be changed in the end.

That depends on make and type of tyre fitted plus size and your riding attitude.
Run of the mill is 28 fromt and 32 rear.