2000 Yamaha YZF-R1 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

so posted motorcycle to cars,moved you to Yamahammer. no year I guessed at the move, so none known and matters. 2008 to 10 says wiki. top cause all machines with engines (fuel) and not driven every day the fuel goes bad. and clogged filters and injector. 1here the battery bad,or charging system weak if goes weak spark fails, EFI must have 13 to 15vdc at all times running, if not EFI fails, (electronics for spark and fuel) most motorcycle sit parked for endless months.or years. for sure in the rust belt, nobody drives on ICE same with garden tools sat idle and fuel is now junk. the word is MISFIRING< due the 3 classic causes auto cycle engines for 100years bad fuel is first due to not driven daily!!! this is physics based and ASE rules of testing not guessing. using tools. 1: bad compression on the 1 cylinder? over 150psi a must. 2: bad spark on this cylinder, . spark plug bad. or coil or spark trigger devices. 3: bad fueling or bad fuel. under or overfueled or leaking injectors Is a single cylinder engine, V1 is 2008 to 2010 seen in India are you in India. we are USA>? Yamaha YZF-R15 v1. as seen here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_YZF-R15 why leave off makers name and YZF, do you want lies.? I say get the Motorcycle serviced in a real shop ,they have to tools and the skills to find the cause.

I have a 2004 that is having the same issue, If I rev it it runs, idle it shuts off

lots of help in this link https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+Yamaha+R1+no+spark ..

does it have aftermarket exaust or anyother changes...or upgrades...

all the way in and not tight or youll break the tips off. back em out 1.5 turns and see how it runs. adjust more or less as needed for good running

Somewhere between a couple of bucks and many thousands of dollars. Who is selling it? Ask them this question. The seller will set all the prices.

hi, You have an electrical switch in the radiator. Unplug the wires from it and hook up an electrical test meter to the switch when it is cold. It should not show any continuity when it is cold. If it does show continuity when cold, you need a new switch.

If it revs well in neutral, you might have a bad kickstand position switch.

I assume you mean low or no power at low RPM? Best place to start is a compression test to make sure the engine is in good condition

Hi, easy is a relative word. For me it is. You need a differential compression tool. It has two gauges and you hook one end to your compressor and the other to your spark plug hole. That piston must be at top dead center on the compression stroke. The second gauge will tell you how much pressure the engine is holding compared to the first gauge that is reading how much pressure the compressor is supplying. If you have a bad valve you will hear air blowing out the intake or the exhaust depending on which one is bad. Or out of the oil fill hole if the rings are bad. Great tool!

Hi, yep that is a low reading. Only one cylinder?

You'll ll need to pull the engine out of the bike then pull the head off the bike. You will then have access to the rings. Why do you think they need to be replaced?

check manufacture specs

Hi, I have a quick question, I was rolling on the hwy going about 89mph an my bike just shut off, wat does tht mean???

no they had limiters from stock,but many owners raised or remved them

The following is for a 2001 model, may be the same on a 2000. Follow your shift linkage from the foot shifter 'up' the linkage rod. Where the linkage rod meets the shift shaft, right beside it you will find a gold colored Knob. Thats the idle adjuster. You will want to loosen the left Mid-fairing to allow you to get your hand behind it to reach the adjuster knob. You dont have to remove it, just loosen the 1/4 turn screws holding it. do not adjust the idle when the engines cold. Have it good and warmed up. When your finished, retighten the 1/4 turn screws, and your finished. Small adjustments, allowing the engine to 'catch-up' work best. Good luck.

The header tank for the coolant is inside the fairing at the front of the bike in the v shaped bit behind the front wheel.

The thing about electronic ignition is the setting cannot change, as there is no points to wear down and alter the timing.
with the exception of the flywheel key breaking or the cam timing jumping teeth, both highly unlikely occurances, as it wouldnt run cold with either of these

hard to start when hot can be flooding or too rich , or possibly an electrical problem, but if it starts cold OK and runs fine, doesnt cut out or misfire as it gets hot, and the only problem is hard hot start. then fuel mixture is likely.
If it will push\roll start when hot, this may eliminate ignition problems.
recheck the valve clearances.
Make sure the air filter is new.
I also find that some moreys upper cylnder lube in the fuel can help, but cant explain why

I think you don't do nothing there ,because this system works mechanically with cables and if you remove the engine will have no power at medium speed.Until it reaches full capacity it will be like when you light it and go with a cold engine

Cylinders are numbered 1-4 as sat on the bike. That means when you are sat astride the bike the number 1 cylinder is on the left (clutch lever side) and number 4 on the right (brake lever/throttle side)