1993 Yamaha FZR 600 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check your fuses first should be one under seat and maybe by head light then battery connection make sure it si tight leave key on the whole time you do these tests then try to jump off the starter with rubber ended screw driver touch positive to a ground then check connections to key switch with test light if u are getting power to the key switch and nothing happens order a new key switch bike will not fire unless switch is making contact with battery good luck let me know how it goes

could be a blocked filter or blocked main jet/s water or dirt will cause quick problems

There is a fuse box under the seat. Ignition, fan , lights.... There is also a main 30 amp fuse under back left panel

I would check the hot wire going to the key switch and the start button itself.

poor spark , low compression , carbs clogged up fuel tap not operating correctly.

There are 2 double coils. One feeds the 1st and 4th cylinder and the other one the 2nd and 3rd ones.Each coil fires up both cylinder, that is feeding, at the same time.Each coil has 2 wires. The Red/White wire is common on both coils.The Orange wire connects to the coil of 1st and 4th cylinder's plugs and the Gray wire to the coil of 2nd and 3rd cylinder's plugs.

the light will stay on until it gets oil pressure ie: when it starts, there is no oil cutoff switch

You should start by checking if its charging.
put a volt meter across the battery, it should read roughly 12v
then start the bike and it should rise to 14v
much more than this can blow bulbs and boil batteries

Good news, you just need adjust the clutch cable..

Always order the part for your model and year when getting parts and make sure it matches in length with the old one. Note how much cable is sticking out of the housing.
Is it 3 1/2 inches or 4 inches or 2 inches. make sure the new one matches.

Put the new cable on with lots of slack.Slack at the adjuster, and slack at the handlebar adjuster
Now pull the lever in, it will be easy because of the slack.let it stay there.
It will stay against the grip.
As you tighten the cable adjustment down by the cover, you'll notice the clutch lever move out.
Once it reaches the top, stop adjusting and pull it in again.
Continue adjusting and pulling the lever until the lever springs back to the top.
You can feel resistence which is the clutches disengaging.
Make sure there is 1/8" free play when the lever springs back.
Now turn the clutch cable adjust on the handlebar outward, which will remove the rest of the slack.
Only leave 2mm slack on the lever.

Now start your bike up and it should work like new.
You want your clutch to disengage within the first 1/2" of pulling the lever in.
This ensures the clutches are definately disengaged by the time you get the lever pulled back to the grip when shifting.

If your clutches are slipping or dragging no matter how you adjust the cable then your clutches may need replaced.
But sounds to me like its just an adjustment.
Hope to be helpful
Big Al

Observe that the cables are fastened to the spark plugs to produce effects. for example, attain full access to the bikes engine area to perform repairs. Acquire spark plug tools to tighten the loose parts caused from durational maintainance.

Check the igniter box and make sure its a strong blue spark.

Not normally if it's in neutral. Most bikes will start in gear with the clutch pulled in.

Hot climate, warm weather, long distance riding 20w-50 is a great choice. Cold climate 10w-40 might work better. Use only a JASO MA certified motorcycle oil . Synthetics will help your bike run cooler and shift easier.

You have four carburetor's that need to be in sync, one of many problems possible in just one carby will give you grief....

Choke maybe still open, allowing fuel to enter intake without proper air/mixture ratio. Or, the carburetor pilot jets and/or main jets are blocked or dirty.

Fuel contaminates do build up on the linings of various metals prior to reaching fuel reaching the carby's. Periodically (especially if your vary your fuel brand or even retailer's) clean the fuel tap filter and flush the carburetors with an aerosol carby cleaner.

Check condition of air filtration and while the covers are off, check all carburetor's to see slides and needles are moving in perfect unison when you twist the throttle.

The site link below shows an exploded view and name of parts for the carburetor's, Go up to header FZR600RE and click for entire bike in categories.
Cheers.
http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fzr600re-1993_model9937/partslist/B-06.html

Please check the fuel lines for possible blockages.

That could be the solution.

i need more info to answer buddy

if the are no other problems with the engine leaks/noises ( get them fixed first ) a good 10/w40 will be fine ..pick you fav name brand..

hi buddy its on the sump underneith the engine get back to me if its not

hi buddy add 440mls of medium fork oil to it and go onthis site to show you how to strip them http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/replace_fork_seals/index.html

Check the lower bush. I think when you tighten the bolt the unit is locking up, then when you go over a hump or dip the shock is bending instead of pivoting