20 Most Recent 1993 Yamaha XV 535 Virago DX - Page 7 Questions & Answers

blown main fuse? you can find it by following the positive cable from the battery to the starter relay. the fuse is located there, usually a 30 amp fuse

The starter setup on those Viragoes are not that bad to do. The only thing I don't like about it is the the pinion gear. The pinion gear is also a clutch. When they get old they can either jam or slip. It sounds like the starter is damaged. Check starting system before installing the new starter. You want to make sure there isn't a short. Replace the little clutch setup too I believe it is sold seperately.

It could be as simple as the cables need lube...buy a small tool made specifically for oiling the cables from the grips down (you can get it at the dealership)....if after several attempts (It will need to penetrate all the way down the inside of the cables), it doesn't change contact me again.

the starter gear is a series of rollers, that grab a smooth drive, it will spin the motor with no plugs cause its easier. will need new rollers, and a new drive if it has marks on it. there are also some rubber bushes the shafts spin in, that may look ok but can allow the shaft to move slightly, which can affect the rollers from grabbing

ya its easy to lubricate the fork.. just remove the oil seal and then drain the old oil.. and fill it with fresh one...thn fix the oil seal

when it stalls what is the cause, loss of spark? fuel? please check this for me.

Please check the fuel lines for possible blockages.

That could be the solution.

You have a massive short. First, start by disconnecting ALL of the components on that circuit. What circiut is that 30 amp fuse on? From there, use a digital multi-meter and check ffrom the connector leads to the chassis ground. You will need a wiring diagram for this, and no, I don't have one for it. Possible to do it without one, but you'll have to trace the circuit by eye or hand. Not too bad on a bike, but in a car, that's a different story. If you have continuity to ground on a circuit that is supposed to be power, you have a wirring short. If you do NOT have a wiring short, you have a component shorted to ground, example, a starter or alternator, etc... the Stick

If when releasing the choke u r having this problem then its to do with fuel going into combustion chamber..It may be the fuel flow to the carb so do these check:
- check fuel tap(if applicable)
-remove fuel rubber pipe from carb and check flow of petrol coming down.
-Now if it is a 2 stroke you may have a valve problem
-if all this does not solve then remove carb and split down to pieces and clean it.Let it soak in thinner for 24 hours and make sure any plastic bit is removed as it will be damaged if you allow plastic in thinner..
-Check engine compression.
-Check if there is any leak within the combustion chamber.
-last option if all these does not solve is to replace carb..
-

It's been a long time since I worked over a Mikuni Carb.!!! I owned a Yamaha MX-360 punched out 4mm in the 70's and ran a over jetted 38mm Mikuni Carb. to feed it. Yes, it hauled tail...Especially when it hit the power band.
OK Enough nostalgia...I need your Carb model number to help you out. I believe you have 1 power jet, 1 idle (low RPM fuel jet) and 1 air bleed jet per carb.The largest should be the main power jet. The Smallest should be the idle jet, and the medium - alr bleed. But I'm not positive about the medium and small jet. Mine only had 2 jets. Also, I had the adjustable fuel metering for idle richness. Get me the model number and year model. Thanks.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

The description of being in storage is significant as it indicates that the carbs require a pulldown and disassembly; soaking in carb cleaner, cleaning the jets, vents, holes, ports and the walls of the bowl and inner body for the varnish like gunk of old/stale gasoline as perhaps you have done already.

On switching on, the fuel pump is activated and feeds fuel to the carbs.  The floats in the carb's bowl would then rise up and engage the inlet cutoff valve closing the inlet port and therefore no further fuel would flow in even if the pump is still working.  Fuel overflow would then indicate possibly that:

• the valves are not closing;
  
• their is an obstruction along the inlet ports and blocks closing of the valves;
  
• floats are stuck open;
  
• the float height would require adjustments;
  
• necking, ridges, grooves, scratches exist on either the valve or the port allowing fuel entry even if closed.
  

All of the above would require a pulldown of the carbs for inspection, further cleaning or applicable repairs/rebuilt.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Need some more specs please cc Make & Model Etc?

i dont know how to solve this but my friend does he gets 95mph out of his and say's he could get 120mph, and diddnt cost much.

I'll pop back to this post soon.

P.s. Nice bike shame about the speed I know how you feel
*mad & gutted probabbly*

Steve

"is this something i can do" - I don't know, is it? Can you use tools?
I would say that as you are asking questions in here, rather than reading the manual or subscribing to a model-specific forum, you are the kind of person that is looking for the easy answers, so no, it isn't something you should attempt yourself.

The transmission uses your engine oil for lubrication. One of the reasons to use a quality motorcycle oil in your bike NOT car oil...Top off your engine oil, (pour in dipstick hole) and have a good ride.....Good luck to you....Tim

when buying use bikes to keep as your own you should always check it over well to make it yours, like tune up checking valves changing oil and filters then you know what you"ve got.

You are burning the missing juice to hit 5000 rpm. Don't worry. Be Happy.

yes clean carbs, use Berrymans B12 fuel additive in the gas, double dose run til hot, then put it away overnight. try next day. also change fuel filter if it's been standing all winter long.

you can try spray in carb cleaner too, remove aircleaner, raise slider in carb with finger or something and spray a bunch in there, let it sit overnight to get to work and try next day

also if fuel is old then get fresh

This is a highly ill - eagle act to do. In the old days we would put an electric drill on the drive cable, but now they make them tamper proof so they only go one way. The bezels are crimped on so you can't get inside them. I expect modern one may be electronic. How will your insurance company know what mileage you have done? I have never known an insurance cancel or fine due to mileage. You should have just disconnected it when you got close to the limit. Buy a used one and use them for 6 months in turns. There are two or three here 23K and one with 36k https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+yamaha+sr125+speedometer ..

Not mentioned in the Service manual http://www.badrad600.com/Yamaha_Radian_Factory_Service_Manual_OCR.pdf https://www.google.com/search?q=1986+Yamaha+YX600+Radian+remove+USA+speed+restriction Something like this?

Removing 95bhp restriction ' Yamaha Star Cycle V-Max ...

vmaxforum.net https://www.vmaxforum.net > threads > removing-95bh... Jan 14, 2013 - Air jets could easily become blocked. Step 3: Removing the speed restriction. On the back of the speedo-needle a disc with two different . ..

Check the diagrams here https://www.google.com/search?q=yamaha+sega+81+firing+order ..