1992 Yamaha XV 535 Virago DX - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check throtle cable is routed properly and make sure cable is lubricated

I am not real familiar with you bike but I may be able to help you trouble shoot it. Is the motor trying to turn over? If not it may be your starter. You should be able to tell by the sound. If its sounds normal starting up but wont turn on. You want to check and see if your spark plugs are good. Take them out and touch the threaded part of the spark plug to an unpainted piece of your bike. Now hit the start button and see if they spark. If they do not spark or have alot of carbon build up on them replace that and try again. If the new spark plugs do not work then its a wiring problem and let me know and I will talk you thru that. If its not the spark plugs then you want to check the gas flow. On the bottom of the gas tank there will be a shut off valve for the gas(petcock). Attached to the petcock there is a hose that comes off the bottom and runs to the carburetor. Turn the petcock off and detach the hose from the carburetor. Get a basin that you can temporarily put gas into. Put the hose in the basin and turn the gas back on. If you get good gas flow the petcock is good. Now if they are good this is where the fun begins. The carburetor is very touchy when it comes to any dirt or anything of that nature there are alot of small holes for the gas to go thru especially with the main and pilot jets. It may just be that the float is stuck. Your best bet in this case is just to get a phish(its like a parts schematic) and a bottle of carb cleaner and go to town cleaning all the ports and pieces. Make sure that when you take the carburetor off you put a clean paper towel in any open holes in the motor. You dont want any dust or dirt getting in there. If you have any questions feel free to email me at [email protected] or shoot me a call or text at 1(717)802-2689 A.J. Weaver

there are 2 carbs--where the cable hooks to them theres a spring lever that hits a screw-u ajust that by ear with bike runnin----------buy a clymer book for total repair

check the neutral(ground) and look at the other wire too , could be just a bad connection. failing that check the bulb holder itself. you say the bulb is ok? sometimes they look good but are duff try it in the front where you know it should work.

Wot bike

I would start simply.Check or replace all your bulbs first.Then take apart your bulb sockets front and back and spray with electrical contact cleaner and a little lubricant.Make sure all the sockets have free travel and are not corroded at the grounding points on the frame.Some lights ground through the frame mounting and some have a separate ground wire.It sounds like you may just have a bad connection. Most brake lights wont work with key off as there is no power to the circuit.Also clean your brake light switches in the handlebar and down on the frame for the back brake.

i have a 1996 xv 1100 virgo put jardine on it from motorcycle super stores. didn't have to mess with carbs at all. run great.

either your float has got stuck so that the petrol flow into your carburettors does not stop or the needle and seat is stuck or worn, You might have also changed the float level adjustment. remove the carbs and open the bowls to check.

Sounds normal, overheating engines will cause the exhaust header to glow red, and the engine will begin running bad.
Make certain the oil is changed regularly and checked often

most gas now has ethenol in it try adding stp octane boost to the gas and it will evaporate the ethenol

When you say blue smoke, I assume you're meaning oil burning. Is there a characteristic oil burning smell to the smoke? Have you checked the compression? The blue smoke sounds like it could be caused by sticking rings. I personally never store a bike completely dry. I would change the oil before storage, fog the cylinders or run an ounce or two of oil through them with the plugs out, replace the plugs and, depending upon the anticipated duration of storage, either fill the tank with stabilizer and Marvel Mystery oil added to the fuel or drain the tank. A more likely scenario is that the smoke you're seeing is caused by carburetor floats not rising enough to keep the fuel in the bowl at the correct level. As far as the fuses blowing, you will need to isolate each circuit and trace it through. It's possible your wiring could have been chewed up by mice.

Your float is set too high. If you have the service manual, check to see where it should be set. You will need to remove the float bowl and generally there is a metal tab that will need to be bent in one direction or the other to adjust the float height. It coulf also be debris in the needle valve keeping it from closing completely. In either case the float bowl needs to come off. Safe riding.

Two things
1) you do not have the transfer case bolts tight enough meaning that you are not setting them to torque specs.
2) Most likely - You have a leak somewhere else that you are thinking is coming from the transfer case. I would remove all the excess oil from the motor by cleaning it with some type of degreaser and then checking to see exactly where the leak is originating from.Most of the time with motorcycles due to the fact that the engine is getting so much air when riding, your leak will tend to travel making you think that a leak is somewhere else rather then where it is really at.

Check the swing arm bearings & linkages for play
Ride Safe Bike-Doc

check if there is crack of your spark plug cap

Below is a diagram. Turn the air screw inward until it lightly seats then open it up two turns. Set the idle speed with the throttle screw. The throttle screw pushes against a lever on the outside of the carb. From there, adjust the air screw for best idle speed. Do this for both carbs. Be sure the air cleaner is clean.

make sure there is no high point in the brake line and the master cylnder end bolt points down. some times need to turn the handle bars or lean the bike, and occasionally remove the master cylnder off the bars to get fall all the way to the wheel caliper, and keep bleeding

youtube is great source for that...  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zheHGmW9VYU

The bike is 21 years old. Parts are getting harder and harder to find. Finding a good mechanic willing to mess with it is pretty hard also. I wouldn't pay more than $400 for it and that is only if it starts and runs well AND if the transmission shifts smoothly and the clutch and brakes operate properly. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

what bike? what year? without anymore information, i would start by checking the fuel screw at the bottom of the carb....if this is a yz you'll want to close the screw all the and then back the screw out 2 full turns, or it could be the excel pump....when you took the carb apart, you didnt loosen the ssrew that holds the TPS on the side of the carb did you.....because then you have a throttle position sencor problem. but, i need more info...what was done, or changed when you rebuilt the carb.....im sure it is something minor