20 Most Recent 1988 Yamaha XV 535 Virago DX - Page 4 Questions & Answers

sounds like your filter mate
replace the filter she'll be good as new

I cannot find the oil drain plug on 1982 Verago Yamaha 750

Sounds like you still have an issue wit the carbthat feeds the front cylinder. (A sticking float, or dirt in the needle will allow fuel to keep running)

Use 10W-40W, any major brand will do.

have you checked the earth in the sockets? put a meter on it and that will tell you if its there or not i would suspect not

John

sounds like you have spun the timing. check your electronic ignition seems that it has gone bad or the relay went bad and it is not advancing the timing

you can find and download a repair manual at http://www.tradebit.com -- on your search there, type in ' 83 yamaha 1100 virago ' and you will have serveral different choices of manuals to download right to your computer,, in those manuals there will be everything you need to know about your motorcycle + a wire diagram/schematic .

c...

If your carbs and plugs are fine you may wish to check into you wiring harness to see if you have a cyclinder not firing due to a problem with wiring (frayed or disconnected).

sounds like a hose is in the wrong place go back and check all your hoses and make sure they are secure......or a hose has a leak in it that you removed when changing boots.

Next time you get it warmed up, check the compression on the front cylinder when it quits. Be careful of course since it will be hot. It is possible that you are losing compression when everything heats up and expands, but it comes back when the bike cools.

motor sounds tired as oil in air filter can mean worn rings and leaking compression into crancases and then forcing oil into air filter.comp or leak test will give answer

Have you tested the throttle cable is working?

try a new bulb they have two separate filaments in them and one can burn out and leave the other working fine.
take the old bulb out and get one with the exact same numbers which will be 12v 21\5 or similar
the higher number 21 is the brake wattage and the lower 5 is the tail light wattage

Your fuel mixture is incorrect, take a look at your plugs, if they are white or clean it's too lean, black and sooty too rich, grey to light tan good mixture.

there is a small round clear site glass on the engine crankcase, oil should be 1/2 way up the glass.

This link might help:
http://www.ehow.com/how_4896367_read-yamaha-motorcycle-vin-number.html

Well how's the clutch pack condition? It sounds when it gets heated it looses it grasping power. Good?

La bateria falta por XV535 esto CB sea que YB 12AL-2

caja fuerte del paseo
Bike-Doc
marque por favor como 'Very Helpful' (muy provechoso) (si ha sido)

Hi here BikerChris,

OK, you've already narrowed it down drastically. From your description, I gather that when it does start, the starter is in good order and functioning.

First, the type of clicking:

Rapid, like a machine gun -
Usually indicative of a low battery or excessive draw from the starter. Yes I read your description. I also know I have bought new batteries that were bad off the shelf. Not what's happening here though. The rest of the symptoms don't support it.

A single decisive click and nothing - The solenoid is actuating, but not feeding the starter.

Possible causes: Plating on solenoid scarred, or eroded. Bad contact point in solenoid or starter switch. No connectivity between solenoid and starter.

Here is what may be happening and why:

The solenoid is a really HEAVY DUTY switch. A lot of Amps need to pass through it for you starter to turn your engine.

Inside it are two copper contacts that look like the head of a bolt only rounded. The battery is attached to one, the starter to the other. Hovering above them on a spring is a copper clad disk.

When you turn your key and hit the start button (in a perfect world), an electromagnet is activated that yanks the disk towards the contacts. When they connect, the circuit is closed and the starter turns over. OK.

Well, as you can imagine, each time the disk makes contact, there is a bit of sparkage which can erode the copper plate on the disc. The reason it IS a disc is that it rotates a bit each time it connects. This way the contact surface lasts much longer.

After a while though, you do start to hit bad areas. That's when it's time to replace it. This is just about the only scenario that causes intermittent solenoid clicking and starter failure with a known good battery.

The same can happen happen with the start switch contacts. If the solenoid actuates, this is not the problem.

Again, that is all dependent on the battery being fully charged.

The easiest test? Next time it happens, jump it. Jumper cables from a cars battery to yours. If it starts right up, it's the battery or it's connections.

If not, it's the solenoid or it's connections.

I wanted to explain what may be happening and why. It will help with any follow up dialogue we pursue.

'

Best regards to you
Mike

check the bulb first, it powerd from the same circuit as the headlight so it shouldnt be a fuse, The horn may be an unrelated problem.
You will need a test light and check for power at the horn wire, and the indicator light