20 Most Recent 1986 Yamaha RD 350 Questions & Answers

your bendix or your starter reduction gear is probally getting hung you may want to pull starter and inspect it oil or replace

Hi,there is a fuw resons for this,most likely is that there is no spark,so first of all take the spark plug out of the sparkpluge hole put it back in the h,t,lead and put the electrode of the sparkplug nexst to the engine and kick it over to see if there is a good spark,(I would say that there isnt a spark)if not,then I he would say that the nexst step is to take off the round cover off on the left hand side if you are sitting on the bike,I think 3 or 4 screws or alan key bolts if they have bean replaced,now again put ignision on and try kicking it over to see if there is a spark,(some had electronic egnition,some had pionts and condenser)if you get a spark on 1 set of pionts and not the other,replace bothe pionts and condensers,if you have a spark on bothe the pionts then its iver the coil or h,t,lead braking down,(sorry I forgot to mention if there is a spark when first testing the sparkplug,then its iver a blocked jet in the carb,and if not a blocked jet then you would have to give it a conpression test to see if there is eney internal damage),I would put my money on the spark,well I hope this was some help to you,all the best hope you sort it.

More than likely, it's going to be a stuck float on the left carburetor, along with a fouled left spark plug. Too much un-metered fuel just pouring into that cylinder will cause it to run very poorly on that side if it runs at all. Generally it will foul the plug, causing it not to spark. Resolution: Pull the plug out. Turn the fuel off. Place a rag over the spark plug hole. Start the engine and rev it up a couple of times to expel all of the built up fuel in the left side. Run it until you run the carbs dry. Remove the rag, and install a new spark plug in the left side. Remove the left carb, and remove the float bowl and check to make sure the main jet is still screwed in and snug. Now check for any sticking of the floats when holding the carb upright. Floats should move without resistance up and down. Attach a small piece of tubing that fits the fuel line connection on that carb, Holding it upright again blow through it as you raise and lower the floats. You should hear the air going through when the float is down, and stops when you raise the float. If this is not the case then the needle valve that stops the fuel when the float is up, is worn or damaged and gummed up. Set the carb on your bench and remove the pivot pin holding the floats in place, and gently lift them out. In most cases, there is a tiny little clip that connects to the float to the needle valve. carefully remove the float and the attached needle valve. Inspect the needle valve. the rubber cone tip should be clean and have n damage, or rings of wear on it at all. With the needle valve removed, blow through the tubing again to blow out an debris that may be in the carb housing. If the neelde valve is gummed up or sticky in anyway, spray it with carburetor clearer. Spray some into the brass needle valve seat in the carb and then through the opening too. This will remove any gummy or stick fuel residue in there. Spray inside the float bowl as well. this whole area must be spotlessly clean before reassemble. If there is ANY visible wear on the rubber tip of the needle valve, it must be replaced. Since this is an Indian model ( Japanese models only ran from 1973-1975), you will need to source the parts from India. Once the carb is cleaned, repaired, and reassembled, retest it with the tubing again, and blow through it with the carb in it's normal upright position. Air should go through easily. Turn the carb upside down, and blow again. No air should go through at all. If this is the case, the carb is ready to be reinstalled on the engine. Once installed turn the gas on and start the bike. There may still be some residule extra fuel in the crank case which will make it run rich on that side for a short time. I hope this solves the problem for you.

Is it possible you have an exhaust valve stuck open or not seating properly? That would cause the fuel to run out of the combustion chamber and into the exhaust pipe, before the spark plug can ignite it. Just something to check out. Good luck to you.

Doesn't have reverse.

Is it a fat blue spark, Is it good fuel, have you done any recent work that might have cause this problem. If you have a small bottle that you can put a little bit of fuel into. Remove the spark plug put the fuel into the spark plug hole. install the plug back into the hole, make sure not to spill any fuel , if so clean a dry the fuel. Try to start, if it fires and runs for a bit it is a fuel issue. Just because you have fuel to the carb doesn't mean there aren't problems with the carb. There should be a drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl. remove it , is the clean fuel coming out. this is a good place to start.

The voltage regulator on a Banshee only controls voltage output to the lighting system.Checking is easy... unplug one headlight, attach voltmeter to ("low beam" hot wire) and ground wire. Start engine. AFTER warming the engine quickly rev engine close to redline (bout 9000rpm). At 9000rpm, voltage to the headlights should NOT exceed 16.3 volts. It it does... it's cooked.

sounds like your rings are shot, Prob only runs at high rpm & dies when gets lower and wont tick over, try kicking it over slowly with your foot can you feel the compreesion cycles , if not defo rings

change both plugs so you know they are good ,& caps & ht leads to coils, have you changed the jetting in the carbs, check & put back to standard , are carbs working ok , could be flooding on one side if needle jet is in wrong possition or jamming up, does non firing plug come out wet?

The best thing to do would be to get the diagram for a RD/RZ 350LC and the diagram for your KX and use this for comparison. There is no such thing as a "Banshee" diagram. It is a custom built motor, made using a Yamaha RD LC engine.

Try cleaning the carbarator

your first point of call is the battery mate, when low on charge or duff all you get is a buzzing from the solenoid, how old is your battery ?they dont normally last more than 4 years giving good service.

Try these sites BABETTS, for new or NOS. Then try Drum Hill Cycles for used.

Check the carb boot were it attaches to the cylinder head and see if can notice any cracks or hole in it.

turning the screw way out makes the mixture lean, so the problem must be the carb is too rich.
check all the jets were installed correctly when the carb was cleaned
make sure the carb float bowl is not flooding.
Check the fuel tap is working correctly.
make certain the airfilter is clean.
check the engine has correct amount of clean oil( not fuel contaminated)

If the clutch is working okay for other gears then the clutch is operating properly and is not a part of the shifting problem. Extremely dirty oil in the gearbox can affect shifting. More likely however is a bent shift fork. If a bent fork is the problem, the engine comes out then gets torn completely down to access the problem fork. This is a costly repair and is one an inexperienced person should not attempt. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

near the end of the mufflers there one screw remove it take pair of pliers grasp the small bar in the end of the muffler and remove the baffle.

Try ebay.co.uk You may be surprised. The CB points are sold as kits and the dealer will find you new silencers etc.