20 Most Recent 1983 Yamaha XJ 650 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

You will not see the oil filter itself. It is located under a cover in the front of the motor. It is at the center near the bottom under a cover. It is kinda like a newer car canister filter. It takes one bolt to remove the oil filter. The drain plug is just below the filter housing in the pan. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

look here for manual

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/index.php

Hello,

I know that quite a few of the V-Star's have an issue with fuel that has Ethanol additives. What happens when the bike sits, even for as little as two weeks, the fuel start to "gunk" up in the carbs. If you had any trash in your tank, you could of clogged the fuel filter.

Something you can try, without a lot of diagnostic testing, is to add SeaFoam to the gas tank. Use the recommend amount of SeaFoam for the amount of gas it takes to fill it up (I believe it's about 4 gallons or a bit more). Also add 1/4 ounce of carb cleaner (B-12 works great).

Before doing any of the above, I recommend that you check the fuel filter, fuel lines, fuel on/off valve and remove the carb bowls to check for any trash or gunk.

Now you can try starting it again, but put a trickle charger on the battery to help keep the battery up while starting. Start out with the Choke at full and try to start it for a few minutes. If it starts, let it idle for 10 - 15 minutes to allow the additives time to run through and clean the fuel system. Make sure not to run the battery completely down.

If it still won't start, pull a fuel line off a carb and try to start it. If you are getting fuel through the line, it's, more than likely, not the fuel system and could be electrical. Although I've never heard of an electrical issue when running any bike out of gas.

One other thing... try starting it with the fuel on/off valve in the RES (Reserve) position.

This may sound silly, but check the Run Switch to make sure that it didn't get knocked out of place - even slightly.

I've been racking my brain since your question appeared over 3 hours ago. I hope the information that I have given you, will give you enough of a starting point that you can figure out the problem.

If you find this information useful, please vote. Thank you.

Regards,

Oz

NOTE: I have done this, but I do NOT recommend it. Do this at your own risk. Get a spray can of starting fluid, find your air cleaner and give it a quick shot. Back away from your bike and try starting it. It will either start, or pop and backfire. If it didn't start, try one more quick shot, again backing away from the bike while trying to start it. Once the bike starts, and you have added the above chemicals, you shouldn't have any trouble starting your bike again. One more thing, if you use low octane fuel it will have Ethanol in it... use the SeaFoam every other full tank. Only use the B-12 once. If your bike is going to sit for an extended period of time, get a bottle of Sta-bil and add the recommended amount to the gas tank. Run it for a bit, shut it off, and shut off the fuel valve.

Remove the whole set together, When cleaning do not mess with any mixture screws. Pull the bowls off and clean the bowls and any jets there, If you are just cleaning you should not mess with the Synchronization. Take pictures as you pull the carbs off to be able at replace with out any trouble.

That would be a shift light, so you don't over rev your bike.

There is a few things that could possibly cause this. First try disconnecting the cable and spinning it without restriction from the speedometer. If you still get the noise I would recommend lubricating the cable. Even if this isn't the problem it is a good practice to lube on a monthly basis. You now have to diagnose if it is nternal to the speedo. Unhook the cable from the speed sensor and keep it hooked to the speedo. spin the cable slowly with a drill or by hand and see if you are getting noise still from your speedometer. If so I would say it is a gear or internal issue . If not it could be your speed sensor. These are pretty much the only problems that can cause this. I would start with the cable and try it first. It is the quicckest and easiest.

1. When you rev it up, has it reached its normal operating temperature?
2. If you know how to then check your timing as it sounds like a little off at the moment. When did you have it adjusted last?
3.You can add some fuel cleaner when filling up again and run with it until the tank is low again.
God enough, then return a comment. Thanks

no such luck, they only sell these sorry

Follow the positive battery cable to the solenoid. With a piece of wire or a jumper cable clamp short across the two cable terminals. If the starter works you have a bad solenoid. If you hold the starter button and tap on the starter with a plastic hammer and the starter works , you need starter brushes. If anything else is wrong with the starter, parts are not available , replace the starter assembly.

You could have a couple of things wrong. It could have a vacuum leak. The best way to find a vacuum leak is to get it started and use your starting fluid and spray around the carb. If the engine revs up, then you will be able to find the vacuum leak by where you spray. Another thing could be the idle screw was adjusted out and not idling high enough. Or could be that when they rebuilt the carb, got some of the debris out of the float bowl in one of the jets. I would start by checking for vacuum leaks and set the idle up a little bit. The idle screw is on the side towards the top of the carb. It will have a spring on the screw. It doesn't take much to change the idle.

Paying $400 for a coil is absolutely ridiculous unles you want to do a concourse restoration. You can buy a complete high output ignition set with CDI unit for $250!
Coil input should be in the region of 2.5ohm and output in the region of 11k ohm with connectors removed. The "resistors" that were removed are in the plug connector and helps with cancelling radio interference and limiting current draw through the secondary windings of the coil. High current draw = high wattage = heat = failed coil. Put them back, they're not that expensive. Something like $3.

purchase a clymer manual for all the details

this is "normal" for the turbo, make sure your battery is fully charged, it will take a while to start ALL THE TIME, it is nothing new, it is a pain i know, but hey, what a cool bike eh. The guys over here cannot believe it will keep up with SV1000's and the likes.... hahahahha
mine has sat for 3-4 months at a time and will start.... after while..
good luck
AJ

they both show 12v until you press the start button and earth one out. if you switch the multi meter to a smaller scale, it will show a small difference between r\w and b\w due to the resistance in the soleniod coil.
If you put a new solenoid on and it tries to start the bike when the wires are connected, there is a fault in the start button or wire

fuses?

best finding another ignition, or you will have trouble with opperation of lights, the original switch also connects with the kill switch circuit, There may also be issues with police and transport department, re safety certificate, and it will look like the bike is stolen.

If you have "deep pockets" you will find some one. Most people doing "restorations" do 90% of the work themselves because by the time you get the bike complete you could have bought one already done for the money threw at all the problems.

I buy and sell on Ebay for Triumph and older HD bikes. I also have a couple of Honda 450s.. with diligence and patience you can do this.

I live in the Northwest. or I would help you.. If you can repair the old fairing do it.. these are getting harder and harder to come by. I run older bikes and would advocate getting a spare bike for parts.. engine parts, carbs, and electrical stuff will cost you as much or more than Harley stuff. The older Japanese Bikes are coming into their own right now..

http://www.turbomotorcycles.org/TMIOA/Bike_Yamaha_XJ650.html

Jim

Check that its not just the gear pedal either stuck or spinning round on its shaft.
If not then its probably the gear selector mechanism - hopefully on the accessible part. Remove the right-hand engine cover & check that the shift shaft operates the claw (which turns the gear selector drum) & that all springs etc are OK. Otherwise its on the internal part of the selector mechanism which will require a full engine strip

Good Luck
Hope this helps.
(If it does then please mark this as 'useful')
Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

It sounds like a battery problem. Do you have a meter to check the voltage of the battery? If not, bring it to a parts store, most offer free checks or auto batteries, I'm sure they will test yours, as they usually also sell bike batteries.

Wrong size throttle cable or misadjustment. At the handlebars, I've seen some set that acceleration causes a pull of the cable, I've also seen bikes set to push the cable. Confirm this is set correctly, and that your mechanic used the correct legnth of cable.