20 Most Recent 1980 Yamaha XS 650 G - Page 2 Questions & Answers

u need a battery eliminator-its a capacitor sold at harley shops--hook it up to the terminals and it turns alternator into magneto--but buy a little lite u can put on handlebaars so if electrics go out u wont kill a tree

Yes. There is a switch on the top rear center case that activates the neutral light. A wire connects at the top of the switch.

As of July 29, 2010 this is the list from ebay..........Good deals.
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=xs850+manual&_sacat=See-All-Categories

Do you have a synchronizing tool? If not, you'll need one, either homemade or store bought. All what synching the carbs means is that they are both pulling in the same amount of gas and air based on manifold vacuum pressure.

Disassemble the carb and soak the entire carb in denatured alcohol. A bit of vibration will help to break up the varnish. The alcohol will eat the varnish in 15 minutes or so. Now finish with spray carb cleaner and an air hose. Concentrate on the pilot jet. Spray into every fuel circuit ( hole ) you can find.

Generally for old bikes, removal of any loom connections in FRONT of ignition coil will do it. But beware. you have no way of turning the bike off except swift removal off the plug lead. High rev use will also damage rectifier/regulator and cdi units as correct source coils have been wrongly circuited with no lights.

A service manual is a valuable tool with an aging bike. I suggest the dealer/mfr. or Clymer books. In the meantime, go to the library reference section...646 stacks should have what you need.

check the rotor magnet to see if the windings are shorted to the base use an ohm meter to check for grounding to the base.

Replace the spark plug wires.

carb may need overhaul-take apart n put in solvent-try ajustin idle speed 1st--inspec ign wiring-the timing is controlled by a computer box-may need new-1st chec batt condition-make sure connections r tite--secure a clymer manual for details n keep in touch I had 2 of these babies

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

On your requirement to "...rewire the ignition system..." of an XS650, below basic ignitor wiring scheme maybe of reference:

• white / red - from pick up;
• white / green - from pick up;
• black / white - from pick up;
• orange - to ignition coil;
• red / white - IGN + 12 from engine stop switch ;
• black - ground;

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Well the most problems are in the carbys {running to rich or to week} and with 2 carbys you must have them in tune with each other by about 98%.
and with a plug getting wet your float level is to high so when your going the fuel is getting to much in that cylinder and putting out a strong mixture and the other one to weak and you could also have a gasket on the intake sucking air or the exhaust has a bad flang gasket or a small pin hole in it some where
WHEN idleing put your hand over the tailpipe and stop the exhaust and see if you can hear a small blow if so fix it and the same the other side.
AS ITS ALL TO DO WITH HEAT AND INCORRECT MIXTURE so L/H is to much fuel,,,R/H cyl is running almost correct but wants tuning.
Have a goodday RON

WHAT DO YOU MEAN BUDDY PUTTING THEM ON PISTON OR PUTTING THEM IN BARREL

It is part of a detent mechanism for the choke. No, all 4 carbs do not have them, only 1.
Here is a link to Yamaha's website, where you can pull up a diagram of your bike's carbs. The ball is #10 and there is also a spring with it.
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx
They are saying there are 2 balls and 2 springs, but I do not remember them having 2. I also don't see another #10 or #11 on the picture anywhere. You should be able to look at the rod that connects all the chokes together and see if there are 2 sets of dimples for the balls. Obviously there will be one set in carb #1, if you find another set of dimples for a detent ball, then there indeed would be 2. Also, the carb body would be drilled for the spring and ball like the #1 carb is.
Thanks
RSRBOB

Generic Comment:

My guess is that a 1980 is points. Look in the area where the cam shaft should be.. Look for a round or oval cover with phillips screws. Pop it off.

horse magazine or other classic ones hav many books for sale on customizing-even library has mc tear down manuals

Chances are the new bars are a bit taller than the old bars. It sounds like the taller bars are making you stretch the clutch cable. No freeplay at all in the clutch lever, Right? If the clutch cable was not re-routed causing the stretch, the only thing you can do there is get shorter bars or get a longer cable from a similar bike or have a custom cable made at the shop. The blinkers is just an error in how the wiring was reconnected.

Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?

You have to custom build one for that bike. I don't think they are/were available. Check out www.650riders.com and they will be able to answer any questions you may have about you bike

the easyest way is to take the seat cover off (staples underneath) shave foam with electric carving knife then staple cover back on. or buy shorter rear shocks.

The compression should be around 150psi, but at 120psi it should pop, try to readjust the valve clearance.
Hope this helps!