20 Most Recent 2008 Triumph Speedmaster Questions & Answers

i had the same prob.after many calls to my triumph dealer it wAS FINALLY SOLVED.as i only ride short distance to and from work i was drawing more power during the shut down mode by the onboard comp thaen i was charging.mechanic got hie laptap and put it on "city charge".have not had the prob since. Paul Australia

have a load test done on the battery as I suspect you have a weak cell that has failed

Yes your battery needs charging. Lift the seat and take the side covers off and you willl see the battery. Charge away, you can bump start it. Turn it on engage second gear pull in the clutch run with the bike or have someone push you, drop the clutch when u are going as fast as you can and at the same time drop all your weight on the seat so the back wheel doesnt lock. Good luck!!

note your yr. make, mode. look at this site they have everything you will need. http://www.british-customs.com/america-speedmaster/ have fun

the fuel is lean on the bottom, i dont know if the power commander can add some fuel or not. Why disconnect air injection, also if disconnected is the exhaust leaking.

exhaust systems are available to enhance performance and customize your scooters sound and looks. Being a newer vehicle you may want to check with your local dealer as changing the muffler or system changes your back pressure as well, and causes heat build up in the cylinder and adverse performance proper carb jetting is required after a exhaust change.

Yep Haynes or more probably Clymers !

try jp cycles usa, many us companies cater for the triumph.

Triumphs have a habbit of the ignition coils failing past a certian age. Switch the coils around and see if the backfires transfer with coil.

Check carb mounting to be sure no air leaks.

I had a similar condition on an old BMW. It was suffering from the hairline crack syndrome. Once the bike warmed up, the coil started to discharge itself onto the GAS tank But before you replace anything, you really should test it. The Haynes manual will guide you, all you need is a cheap multimeter from Radio Shack or Sears. I'd also warm up the coil with a hairdryer to see if that has any effect on internal resistances. I'd also check your air and fuel filters. A clogged up air filter will make the bike run a little rich, not a big deal when cold, but will become noticable when warm. The crank sensor is easy to check. Just measure the resistance using your multimeter, and compare with specs in the manual. BTW BMW wanted $600 for my old R65. Fortunately I found a retired elec. engineer who rebuilt mine for $120. The ignitor may not be so easy. Back in the 80s, a few simple resistance measurements would tip you off, but todays ignitors are too complex for this approach. The dealership may have a scan tool to help you out, or you might be able to find another America rider in your locality who will let you borrow theirs for a few minutes to see if that helps. I'd also also check your gas tank vent. Run the engine until she starts to stumble, then open your gas tank cap. If you hear air rushing into the tank and/or the bike starts to run well again, your vent line is probably clogged. These intermittant problems are most fustrating. Take your time, you'll eventually figure it out. When you get really PO, take a break. Kicking the bike will not help ... I've tried this approach and it doesn't work! Good luck with it

10W/40 or /50 Dry Fill: 4.5l Oil & Filter Change: 3.8l Oil Change Only: 3.3l So 4 quarts with filter and use Mobile 1

You can use a bridge rectifier to do this. Connect each side (left to one and right to the other) to one of the AC inputs on the bridge rectifier. A small 1 amp 100v rectifier will suffice for a LED. Then connect the LED to the plus and minus connections of the rectifier. Make sure the plus side of the rectifier goes to the anode side of the LED.

no where its not always used if your talking about the one on the side of the fuel tank on the fuel pump.

As the engine runs better when the choke is partly applied it does indicate a fuel starvation condition, though the ignition system might not be entirely innocent. It should not be your problem though as you have only just bought it from a dealer who has supposedly serviced it and I expect you paid a parcel of money for it too. You should return it to the dealer straight away for rectification free of charge. When a person buys something it is on the understanding the something is of merchantable quality - that means it should work as intended for a reasonable length of time and if it does not the dealer or retailer has breached the contract made with him until he puts matters right. That basic legal principle transcended any written or implied warranties. Good luck!

You will most likely find that the battery is not at peak charge. You mostly find that this happens on first start ups with a cold motor. Modern bike electrics have a constant draw on the battery (only in milliamps) that leaves them down on power at start up. I have found leaving the battery on a trickle (tender) charger helps.

kill switch on throttle side

go to the mechanic and look in manual of bike good luck

On this schematichttp://www.bikebandit.com/2006-triumph-speed-master/o/m17654#sch569237 on the number 3 part is your rear brake master cylinder mounted on the 2 vertical lined holes under the number 3.The pedal shown herehttp://www.bikebandit.com/2006-triumph-speed-master/o/m17654#sch569268 is mounted with the number 20 bolt which you remove.When you have the pedal, attached on the rear brake master cylinder, apart from the bike, remove the number 12 clip to detach it from the break cylinder and you're done.