20 Most Recent 1993 Triumph Trophy 900 Questions & Answers

Sounds more to me like you are boiling your fuel and vapor locking. I don't know how that bike is set up, but many bikes have one way vent to prevent fuel from spilling in an accident. Has the bike been apart lately? There is insulation on most bikes to protect the tank from excess heat. If it is removed the fuel actually begin to vaporize in the tank and won feed the carb properly.

yes that what it sounds like to me as well a blocked breather in the tank when the bike stops slowly open the fule cap and you should here a sucking sound as the air gets into the tank again find the vent pipe open the tank cap and useing comprest air blow it clean

is this a 3 or 4 cylinder engine - can you give the exact cc, i have some data but not sure if its right.

Yes its either the head gasket just starting to blow past the water jacket to the cylinder bore,as thewater pressure is almost nill but the compression is high about 100lbs+ and its blowing compression into the cooling system ,OR you have a blocked radiator inside or out side or both and if you are using water instead of coolant then its the headgasket as it causing rusty water in the block .
You have the best bike on the road so look after it .
Let me know how you get on . RON

use a test meter to find which one has continuity with ground. Cut that wire, and connect the other two.

Its a carbonation problem or ignition problem.

try helmet lock , opposite direction !

The first thing to come to mind is I THINK your bike has a "tip over sensor". If it was in a trailer that rolled over, that would have activated it, in which case it needs to be reset. It is under the seat, on the same bracket that attaches to the rear of the gas tank. If not, look under a side cover. Remove the cover and check to see of the brass ring is stuck or moves freely. The ring should rest on the plastic portion (non-conductive) of the rail. For clarity, I've add a couple of links to pics of the sensor- First pic is the sensor (cover removed) showing how it SHOULD look: http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/Gauges/TOS2.jpg The ring is at the 6 o'clock position in the pic. Second pic shows the sensor activated, as after the bike ended up on it's side: http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/Gauges/TOS1.jpg Notice ring has slid over and made contact with the electrical contacts, completing the circuit and killing the ignition.

Well, did you check your CPS? (Crank position sensor), do you have power coming into the coils? With out the impulse from the CPS, to tell the ECU to send the power to the coils...It ain't gonna start.

They are formed differently at the bottom, to allow the crankshaft counterweights more space to turn, and at the top, to allow the space needed for the fitting of the external cylinders. Easy to notice - align them in front of you on a flat table and you will notice the difference just by looking at them.

Bout an inch dude

Sounds like the Steering lock has jammed a little, best to wiggle the handlebars gently when trying to turn the key, and hopefully the key will turn, releasing the lock.

Hope this helps.

Try pulling the air filter out and hit it with a shot of ether. If it pops you got spark and its a fuel issue. If not-check the spark plugs,points-if it has them,or possible coil or coil fuse. If it has old fuel it will need cleaned out of tank and carbs cleaned as well. Always run bike dry of fuel before storing for any length of time. Hope this helps.

I disbelieve what "they" are telling you however, if this sound is abnormal to you and has drawn your attention to it then I'd say it's your bike telling you there is something wrong.

I've worked on engines for almost 50 years now from 1 to over 700 horse power they all talk to someone that listens and understands the sounds sort of a mechanical language.

Here are a few of the things the engine may be telling you.
Pre ignition would be my first guess without hearing the sound myself, this is an easy fix by using a better grade of gas with a higher octane rating. I have in the past carried small pre measured containers of octane boost and dump one in the tank at each fill of 87 octane gas.
If your pump gas is below 87 then that's the problem and if yo do nothing about pre ignition it'll destroy the pistons and the engine if left.

Another thing is one or more valves out of adjustment "hydrolic lifters" or not they do get sloppy and could be due to poor oil, wrong oil viscosity/grade, just worn out engine oil needing a change that fix isn't a total fix but changing to a better quality oil check your manual to see what is recommended, not all engine oil is created equal.

Another thing is the overhead valve system is driven by a chain, this chain has a tension-er and if it's worn this chain becomes loose and will rattle in there something real bad. Not only that because of the slack in the chain it will alter the valve timing which will no doubt affect the engine performance and possibly cause pre ignition. If this chain is loose and not serviced it will brake and I've seen them where they had almost cut the engine into two pieces.

So you got pre-ignition, poor oil, cam chain or even to lean a gas mix at high speed which will cause pre ignition as well.

can u say what u mean?

check your floats and float valves...it sounds like the engine may be starved for gas as the float bowl empties (and runs again as they slowly fill again).

I suppose if the fault cannot be traced, fitting an isolator relay or switch in series with the battery would cure your problem. They are readily available from car shops and fairly innexpensive.
Without seeing and working on your bike, I could not begin to suggest the cause.
Hope that helps.

You can take the alarm off of the motorcycle. The wiring should be very easy to put back to the original. The receiver to the alarm will have the ignition wires cut and the box spliced in the middle. You can just cut the wires on the alarm and splice back the original colors to colors. For an example the blue wire will go back to the blue wire. The red to the red etc.