20 Most Recent 2007 Suzuki DR-Z 400 SM - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Your inner tube is leaking air. Remove the wheel and remove the tire on one side only (one bead over the rim edge) to allow access to the inner tube. remove the tube and the tire the rest of the way. Basic tire removing tools are neccesary such as tire spoons and rim protectors. check the rim for sharp points as well as any debris that might have punctured the tire. Check the inside of the tire very carefully as well. If somthing punctured the tire it might be still sticking out on the inside - a potential hazard to your fingers. Patch the tube or, better yet, replace it - a much more dependable solution. Install one bead of the tire back on and then the tube. Infate and deflate the tube with one side of the tire off the rim to ensure proper fit and arrangement of the tube inside the tire. Reinstall the tire and the wheel back into the bike following manufacturers recommended procedures and torques found in a service manual.

the carb will need to either be pulled off and cleaned in solvent and also will need to be adjusted

USA vs.UK. > I think you are saying the bike will only run with the choke on. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

P.S. What do ya'll mean when you say " the bike is on a D plate ". Different letters are used. I am in Dallas Texas USA

Please rate this solution. Cheerio!

provided the bike doesnt leak oil... all you have to do is measure the amount of oil that comes out when you drain it then replace that amount

replace your "Tired" battery it is not putting out enough amps

hi m8,, if the motors running hot thats usually weak mixture if the spark plug is white on the end, then ,will be running weak ,,or timing is a little out ,, try a timing light strobe first be 4 ,checkin the cdi, put a bit of white tippex or paint on the tdc mark,, wen u point the strobe at timing marks ,the white painted mark should be in line with the pointer,can adjust the backing plate of the coil pickups accordingly, cheers

You have an air to fuel ratio screw on the carb that may help. Is the exhaust factory or after market? Google the service manual on it and find where you can adjust the fuel air ratio, not hard to do.

They should be around 33hp at the rear wheel. They should wheelie ok, though you will need to try a bit for decent ones.

Check to see if you have a kick stand switch, and if so, that it is adjusted properly.

It is possible, but really depends on how the bike was treated for those 11K miles. One thing you should check is that the clutch cable is properly adjusted. There should be some free-play at the clutch lever - see the owner's manual, but the first 1/4" or so of clutch lever movement should do nothing except take up slack out of the cable. Insufficient free play at the lever will cause the clutch to not engage fully, and slip.

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.

A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....

You can't, the computerized system is in place to stop exactly what you are trying to do, Steal the bike without the correct credentials. You can't reprogram or over-ride the computer. You need a bike electrician.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E210US1494G0&p=repair+manual+for+1986+Suzuki+cavalcade+gv1400

The crank case will be almost as hot as the oil flowing around the engine, lubricating the bearings.

Thinking you meant Raider and not 'rider', and this is a Suzuki motorcycle and should not be in Cars and Trucks category. Edited and moved. https://www.google.com/search?q=raider+150+carb+tensioner

The air/fuel mixture screw on a Suzuki VS800 Intruder is typically located on the carburetor. To adjust the air/fuel mixture, you'll need to locate the carburetor and look for a small screw that can be turned. Keep in mind that the exact location of the screw may vary slightly depending on the model year and specific carburetor version on your VS800 Intruder. Generally, it is located on the bottom or side of the carburetor. Here are the general steps to locate and adjust the air/fuel mixture screw: 1. Locate the Carburetor: The carburetor is usually positioned on the side or underside of the engine. Follow the intake manifold or air filter housing to find the carburetor. 2. Identify the Air/Fuel Screw: Look for a small screw on the carburetor. This screw is typically flat-headed and may be recessed. It is often located near the bottom of the carburetor. 3.Adjustment: With the engine running at idle, use a screwdriver to turn the air/fuel mixture screw. Turning it clockwise (in) usually leans out the mixture, while turning it counterclockwise (out) enriches the mixture. 4. Listen to the Engine: As you make adjustments, listen to the engine's sound. The goal is to find the point where the engine runs smoothly and the idle is stable. 5. Fine-Tune: Make small adjustments and give the engine a moment to respond before making further changes. It's a process of trial and error to find the optimal setting. 6. Check the Owner's Manual: Refer to your motorcycle's owner's manual for specific guidance on the location and adjustment of the air/fuel mixture screw. The manual will provide information tailored to your bike's make and model. If you're uncomfortable making these adjustments yourself or if you're unsure about the location of the screw, it's advisable to consult a professional mechanic or refer to the specific service manual for your Suzuki VS800 Intruder.