20 Most Recent 2006 Suzuki DR-Z 400 SM Questions & Answers


Hi, Sinaindra I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH---WHINE
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
5. Clutches---CHATTER
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
8. Fenders---SCRAPE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
11. Gears---WHINE
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
16. Pistons---SLAP
17. Power Valves---CLINK& RATTLE
18. Radiators---GURGLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
21. Relays---CLICK&BUZZ
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
25. Speedometers---bzzz
26. Starters---CLICK
27. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How to diagnose problem by the noises your bike makes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wavfvx8CaYo
Suzuki drz 400 2000 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2006 Suzuki DR-Z... | Answered on Mar 08, 2019


Hi, Cig_wink to perform a proper compression test you need a pressure gauge either threaded or push in. You will get a higher more accurate reading when the engine is at normal operating temperature along with burnt fingers if you are not protected or careful, cold testing works just fine and it's the method I use 99% of the time. If your bike has cams and valves you need to make sure your valve clearance is within book specs. Always blow forced air around the spark plug before you remove it to eliminate any uninvited contamination from getting inside the cylinder. Install the compression gauge, twist the throttle grip to the wide open position and kick or hit the starter button long enough for the engine to turn over 5-6 times. Record the reading and repeat the process 3 times to get the average reading. Single cylinder engines must have a minimum of 100 PSI anything less call a Priest for Last Rites, it's time for a top end overhaul. Multi-cylinder engines must have no more than a 10% difference between each cylinder, for you high- performance ******* no more than 10 lbs. per cylinder. To run on today's fuel most bikes have pistons with compression ratio's designed to give acceptable performance using an 87 octane graded fuel, this means the average compression readings on most bikes will be 125-150 PSI. I have gotten readings of 200+ on some big inch V-Twins and Thumpers but these numbers are rare and require high octane fuel to eliminate cylinder ringing or pinging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1108401-drz400sm-compression-test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxYhot5IA9o
Suzuki drz 400 2000 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki Add
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2006 Suzuki DR-Z... | Answered on Mar 08, 2019


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.Add
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1165935-drz-400-dies-at-idle-after-riding
https://www.suzukicentral.com/forums/17-maintenance-repairs-tuning/73430-dies-while-riding.html
Suzuki drz 400 2000 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2006 Suzuki DR-Z... | Answered on Mar 08, 2019


check the fuse, then the bulbs

2006 Suzuki DR-Z... | Answered on Sep 28, 2012


Bijan,
All modern bikes use a 12 volt battery. And your bike is a modern one.

2006 Suzuki DR-Z... | Answered on May 15, 2011


motor may have low compression or the carb has dirt in the jets or floats are messed up my guess is floats

2006 Suzuki DR-Z... | Answered on May 07, 2011


you need to remove the carb and take it apart. the best is a dip in some cleaner. if your not sure find a good shop in your area.
Mark

2006 Suzuki DR-Z... | Answered on Mar 20, 2010


It could be a couple of things,start with a compression check.If there is no comp. Remove the head &cylinder.

2006 Suzuki DR-Z... | Answered on Mar 08, 2010


does the dash have a select button? push for 3+ seconds

other options ebay a canadian unit

2006 Suzuki DR-Z... | Answered on Aug 12, 2009


Perhaps this is a rev limiter, or speed limiter upon which you are running up against???

2006 Suzuki DR-Z... | Answered on Mar 13, 2009


Often times there is a engine breather tube that has to do with emissions that runs from the engine to the air filter breather box. This tube can in some cases blow oil through it when the engine is run hard. Make sure you're not over filling the engine with oil when you change it because this will cause the oil to "blow off" the excess and the air box is where it often goes.
There is also another possibility, are you using too much oil in your air filter after you clean it? This too is a common cause for oil in the air box, if that's the case I would not worry about it.
The last case scenario is one you don't want, that would be washed out rings which cause blow by and that in turn causes the engine to blow oil out of the breather tube which I'm confident it venting into the air box.
Please let me know if these resolve your question and if not give me more details and I will be happy to assist you further.
Regards,
RSelvy

2006 Suzuki DR-Z... | Answered on Dec 08, 2008


Pull out the 2 rear seat bolts, lift the rear an inch or two and slide it rearward.

2006 Suzuki DR-Z... | Answered on Nov 10, 2008


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/252421-dr-250-how-do-i-set-float-height-no-caliper
Float Height Inspection and adjustment the RIGHT WRONG way Demo on YZ250F
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/190037124-1985-1986-suzuki-dr500-dr600-motorcycle-repair- $15
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

Suzuki DR-Z 400... | Answered on Mar 26, 2019


Hi, Christine for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
How to replace the battery on Suzuki DRZ400s
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0fPe4feWkfeODBhNGRiZTEtY2RlZi00YWRhLTk0M2ItMThhYTlhNmUzOGEx/view?ddrp=1&hl=en&pli=1# Free service manual !
OEM parts for Suzuki
http://dr-z.pl/DRZ400SM%20-%20OM.pdf Free owners manual !

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


Suzuki DR-Z 400... | Answered on Oct 16, 2016


It is possible, but really depends on how the bike was treated for those 11K miles. One thing you should check is that the clutch cable is properly adjusted. There should be some free-play at the clutch lever - see the owner's manual, but the first 1/4" or so of clutch lever movement should do nothing except take up slack out of the cable. Insufficient free play at the lever will cause the clutch to not engage fully, and slip.

Suzuki DR-Z 400... | Answered on Nov 07, 2009


Hi, Michael sounds like you got the wrong switch, for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Ignition+switch+Suzuki+600+SRAD&sxsrf=ACYBGNSJjyMcsFjg6gO6kdb8jApyjV6fUg:1580157871099&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiM8eHk0qTnAhVupVkKHZhOCnQQsxh6BAgMECw&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Switch-Suzuki-GSXR600-04-05/dp/B06XNP17BF
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/896122/Suzuki-Gsx-R600.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

Suzuki... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Allan before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.gixxer.com/threads/battery-not-charging.552449/#post-7752073
https://www.gsxr.com/threads/gsxr-charging-system-101.225306/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PevgFfi_oaY
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1212456/Suzuki-Gsr750.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/813897/Suzuki-Gsx-R750.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

Suzuki... | Answered on Jan 24, 2020


Hi, Zwelithini your instrument gauges and lights can alert you to most electrical and engine issues they can not warn you about failed engine gaskets or seals so your engine has to resort to old fashion alert methods of colored "SMOKE SIGNALS" here is a breakdown of their meaning:
1. COLORLESS OR SLIGHTLY BLUE SMOKE on start-up means your air/fuel mixture is the right composition and everything is well burnt in your combustion chamber.
2. BLUE SMOKE on startup is usually caused by failed valve seals dripping oil into the combustion chamber when the engine is not running.
3. YELLOW OR BROWNISH SMOKE at start-up means your air/fuel mixture is too lean. Too lean means that there is low fuel but high air mixture in your combustion chamber.
4. WHITE SMOKE on startup may be caused by a blown head gasket allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber and may start dripping out of the exhaust pipes or mufflers. Smoke while riding is usually caused by worn out or damaged valves, seals, guides, pistons, rings, or cylinder walls.
5. BLACK SMOKE on startup is usually caused by too much fuel in the combustion chamber this can be due to air/fuel mixture adjustment too rich, accelerator pump improperly adjusted, faulty choke or not in the off position, air filter dirty and clogged, faulty carburetor float needle and seat, pilot jet too large, fuel injectors leaking, smoke while riding is usually caused by the main jet being too large or a damaged carburetor.
It should be noted that aggressive or abnormal throttle operation will cause these conditions to manifest themselves exponentially.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://www.gixxer.com/threads/idle-issue-then-black-smoke.356474/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YfEIP6eRzs
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/813897/Suzuki-Gsx-R750.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
https://www.gixxer.com/threads/k8-750-owners-manual.378746/

Suzuki... | Answered on Jan 21, 2020


YOU NEED A NEW HEAD AS THE THREADS HAVE BEEN STRIPPED ON PLUG HOLES

Suzuki... | Answered on Jan 21, 2020


Hi, Wayne for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/threads/coolant-check-on-a-suzuki-marauder.110253/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/824096/Suzuki-Vz800.html?page=33
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/824096/Suzuki-Vz800.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

Suzuki... | Answered on Jan 18, 2020

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