20 Most Recent 2005 Suzuki GSX 600 F (Katana) Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. https://tinymicros.com/mediawiki/images/e/ed/Suzuki_2005_2006_Katana_GSX600F_Wiring_Diagram.pdf from https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+suzuki+katana+gsx+600f+wiring+diagram ..

Arrow pointing up on the knob is (RES) reserve to the side is (PRI) prime which bypasses the vacuum part of the tap and ON is downwards.use prime only when you have run out of fuel n on and you need to switch to reserve ,prime will let you refill the carbs without running the engine.

10w40 Semi synthetic oil preferably proper motorcycle oil as is is made to work with wet clutches unlike car oil.

Try putting it in gear rock the bike then try neutral again. Make sure the key swich and the kill switch are in the on position

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First thing to do is check if you have spark at all for spark plug ends. Do so by removing the wires 1at a time and using an insulated tool hold it against or very close to a good ground and check for spark. If spark is good ensure you are getting fuel. If cylinder not firing has a wet spark plug that smells like fuel then move on to testing cylinder compression. This tool can usually be rented or borrowed from many auto part chains. Bring a spark plug with you to ensure you get the rightsize or adaptor. If the dead cylinder is lower than the other cylinders you will need a rebuild. Also before you check fuel and all the other things measure the resistance on each spark plug wire. They will vary slightly due to length but if one is much higher this is your culprit. Buy a new set of wires. While you have plugs out for spark test make sure they are gapped correctly.

hello i have a gsx 600f and this has two springs and a \´L\´ bracket but i also need a picture as of the spring arrangement you will also need if it\´s the same as mine prob\´s is two spacers and two bolts that have a hole in the end for spring clips you\´ll be best off going to a shop that supplies the bits, as i bought mine off ebay and it has cost me another £10 up to now for the extra parts if i get mine sorted I\´ll foward a picture to you send me your email address

sounds as if you have an issue with the charging system, try using a volt meter to determine if the bike is charging. To do so you will need to access the battery under the seat, with the bike running hook up the volt meter to the battery terminals, at idle you should have around 11volts when reving you should have around 13volts. If not you may have a bad stator or other electrical issues. good luck

I found one on this site for a 2004 model. It may be of some help. Motorcycle Manuals for free. Hope this helps FixYa up.

Here is a way for you to determine OFF from RESERVE. I presume you have looked at the valve and there is no indication where RES is located, right?

Find a nice quiet road. Move the lever to the front - go for a ride. If you start to loose power in about 4 to 5 minutes, you have found OFF. REach down and turn the fuel back on. RES is the other way. If nothing happens, move the lever to the rear. Do the same. If 5 minutes is not the number, go a little further until you find RES and OFF. Besides, it is a nice day to go do some research on your new bike.

Did you look in the Tool Kit spot for your owners manual? I keep my registration and insurance papers in with my owners manual and my little tool kit. You might find yours there also ...

Thanks for your question @ FixYa.com

Get out your multimeter and check the fuses. The fuse box should be right next to the battery.

hi, that is correct, undo the bolts,make sure tap is not in prime position and remove the fuel lines. lift the tank up a little at the rear and pull it back, it slides onto a rubber at the front of the tank and can be a bit tight coming off, some wd40 on the rubber going back on works a treat.
hope this helps and thanks for using fixya
paul

Here is the long version! 3500 is what Susuki recomends
The engine on a 600 Katana is actually the old oil-cooled GSXR 750 motor with sleeves* (well, on the older engines; the late models have direct-bore cylinders with no sleeves) to choke it down to 600 CC displacement and a different set of valves & cams to change the engine behavior. Without changing the engine internals, the single biggest performance boost you can give your engine is switching to a good quality motor oil, such as Castrol GPS synthetic motorcycle oils or Mobil 1 Racing 4T (formerly MX4T) (doesn't void warrantee if using 10 to 20 weight rated oils in the API SF/SG categories). You'll notice the difference from most types of oil (we recommend driving both immediately before and immediately after the oil change to feel the difference).

To learn more about motorcycle motor oils, read: CyberPoet's How to understand and choose motorcycle motor oils.
*** DO NOT USE API SJ500, SL OR SM rated oils, nor any marked "Energy Conserving" in the lower half of the API ring in your Katana/GSXF! ***

For an even more substantial performance difference, you can try Castrol R4 SuperBike Oil (5W-40) (or any other Ether-based 10w40/5w40), but the lighter nature of the oil may induce some pumping or lubrication problems at low RPM's when cold (when the oil pressure is at it's lowest, such as at idle), and it will probably void your warrantee (since it's lighter than Suzuki's recommended weights for the Katana; see Caution, below). That said, I ran R4 as the standard oil in one of my Kantana's for 12,250 miles without any issues as a result that I noticed (high speeds and in the Florida heat to boot!), but I will not recommend to anyone else for street usage and I may have worn my rings down some as a result of using it (got a new, younger Kat so I can't say what happened to that one after the 12.25k miles I ran the R4 -- just that it was good up till then). Castrol has just released R4 formulations in 10w40, 10w50 and 15w50 in the UK; if we're lucky, we'll get the same in the USA one of these days...

CAUTION: Do not use Castrol R4 SuperBike oil during the engine break-in period. We recommend using traditional motorcycle dino oils (Kendell's 4-stroke motorcycle oil is supposedly very high in special compounds for the engine break-in period [anti-galling compounds] if I can find it, or I traditionally use Castrol Evo4), and changing them at least twice as often as recommended during the break-in procedure (as well as the oil filter). More often is better, and changing the oil on a new bike at 40 and 100 miles makes sense. The metal shavings generated during break-in scratching the various internal engine parts are the source of most long term performance losses that can be readily prevented. As it is, even well past break-in, I almost always change my oil every 2,800 to 3,000 miles (depending on the type of driving done, given Suzuki's recommendation of 3500 miles or sooner) and have never regretted

turn the cable adjuster back to its original position ie between 600-700 rpm look to the left hand side of the carbs you will see a large adjusting screw on a metal bracket whilst engine is running turn inwards towards rear wheel until between 1000 - 1500 rpm remember to warm engine first as rpm will rise if idle is set with a cold engine as the engine warms up when riding

it is writen on the sidewall...ie:max psi...44 psi...etc

maybe need a diffrent relay, tried this on my 2000 rsv mille. they would not work until i changed the relay that would work with leds. may help hope it does.

this sounds more like a fule problem to me, try striping the carbs out and clean all the jets out, also check the fule it reaching the carbs and its not a blocked fule tank or filter as this bike is just not getting any fule to the engine after cleaning the carbs it should run ok, but just to be on the safe side get some cleaner and tip it into the fule tank also

When you cleaned the carb, did you get the needle valve put back in correctly? That is the small pointed valve that is actuated by the float. As gas flows into the carb it raises the float and the needle valve rises to shut off the gas flow. You should have put compressed air through the hole that the needle valve goes in. There is a removable jet that the needle valve tip goes into to shut off the gas. Remove a spark plug after trying to start it. If the plug is very wet it means the carb is flooding, and if it is dry it means the motor is getting no gas. If the plug is dry you can take off the air cleaner boot and pour a tablespoon of gas into the carb opening, then quickly try to start it. If it starts momentarily you know you just need to work on the carb. You also could remove a plug, put a teaspoon of gas into the cylinder, replace the plug and try to start it, to see if you get a pop or two. Put some Seafoam in the gas to help clean the carb. Make sure you use compressed air to clean out all the small passages in the carb. An owners manual would tell you exactly how to adjust the float level, but I think you can assume it's okay if you didn't do anything to it. Generally the gas shuts off when the float rises until it's about level. When you take off the bowl of the carb, before removing the carb from the bike, there should be gas in the bowl, but it shouldn't be overflowing.......somewhere around half full. Also, are you getting good compression? If that bike has a kick-starter it would be easy to determine if the compression is okay. If there is not much resistance to the kick-starter, or pushing the bike in high gear, the compression is bad and valves may be stuck or burned. Let me know how your project is going.

Has the bike been sitting for any time longer than 4 days? 4 days is enough to clog idle jets. Cleaning the carbs if it has carbs, is the first defense against idle to low rpm stalls. Pull the carbs and clean them out. Definitley will help you out.