20 Most Recent 2004 Suzuki DR-Z 250 Questions & Answers

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Hi, Check and clean all connections to and from the battery. If all is good.The next thing is the switch check for a good ground. You will need a volt/ohm meter for that. You should have 12v + on cables/.wires and - on the ground side. Charge the battery before you do this test.

Check your battery first. It sounds as if you have a bad rectifier or regulator. The battery voltage should be about 12 volts when not charging and about 13.3 to 14.5 volts when charging. If the battery isn't charging you will only be able to run on the charge in the battery (which won't last long).

Go to your dealer Or buy one off the internet

It sounds like it may be some kind of lubrication problem with the clutch, as the bike warms up and the oil thins out it lubricates better thus reducing the grinding noise, check all your fluids and see if that helps. Check round your local wrecking yards for any spares like speedo cables and stuff, a speedo cable shouldnt be any more than 20 bucks. In regards to getting better speed, a good set of pipes will always give you a boost and you can also much around changing the sprockets to give you better acceleration or top speed which ever you are after.

hi, i have the same bike, and you cant really tighten it much, i tightened mine to the maximum and didnt really feel much difference, thats just the bike, you can get new shockies for like $200 wich would fix you problem, thanks

10.50 litres (2.77 gallons)

buy a workshop manual , or get it done professionally

Is engine condition good???? comperssion should be in the range of 150 psi. have you checked tha air box, filter, inlet track for proper condition and no blockage(dirt dobber nest???). Check for air leaks at the intake manifold by spraying arouind the area with carb cleaner while idling, any change in rpm indicates a leak. Re check your work in the carb. A "cleaned carb " and a properil overhauled and adjusted carb can be 2 different things.

Did you checked the collar where the carburetor plugs on to on the cylinder head? They usually crack and **** extra air through. Also remove that rubber collar and check the o-ring it has installed at the point that contact's the cylinder head.

genuine chains are normally sold continious, there are many accessory companies selling genuine quality chain in cut lenghts with joining links, the joining pins are punched with a pin punch after assembly so the side plates dont come off.
I used to buy 50meter lenghts and a box of links and have fitted hundreds of them

Valve (Cam) timing can be quite complex or quite simple. The exact time the intake valves and exhaust valves open and close will effect the amount of power produced by the engine and at what RPM it is produced. All this opening and closing is set at the factory and is all quite complex. We don't really need to concern ourselves with the initial set up unless we have modified the engine and changed the cam to a high performance one. Then we would want to degree in the cam(s) with a degree wheel bolted to the crankshaft. We are not concerned with that here. What we want is to reproduce the original factory setting. This is quite simple IF we play by the rules. Assembly actually starts with disassembly. What do I mean ? Well, LOOK at the camshaft marks BEFORE you take it apart. Set the engine at TDC (Top-Dead-Center) Of the compression stroke (TDC on the #1 cylinder if it a multi cylinder engine). Do the marks on the cam or cam sprocket match up with what the manual says ? If they DON'T, I write down the marks that are used and how they are used so that on reassembly I can reproduce the correct cam (valve) timing. On twin cam engines I count the number of cam chain rollers from the exhaust cam mark to the intake cam mark and write that down too. I do this on every four stroke engine I disassemble.
Well, I'm SUPPOSED to do this. On the last engine I rebuilt I forgot to do it, trusting in the factory shop manual I had. Then I discovered it had some weird, aftermarket, simi adjustable, cam sprockets. GREAT. I go to reassemble the engine and the marks DO NOT MATCH the marks given in the factory shop manual. Now what ? Who knows who made these cam sprockets and what marks they used. I try what seem to be the factory marks but the cam lobes just don't look positioned right. I try some other marks and that looks better. I put it together... Runs great. check the timing marks. You can even make your own set of marks.
To make your own marks (BEFORE you take it apart) just set (turn) the crankshaft so the #1 cylinder is at TDC (Top-Dead-Center) on the compression stroke (Both intake and exhaust valves closed) and then make some marks on the camshaft sprocket(s) and a corresponding mark on the cylinder head. Use white paint. I suppose you could use a small punch mark, but I like paint better. If it's a twin cam engine count the number of rollers between marks you put on the camshaft intake and exhaust sprockets. Write it all down or take a digital picture of it. You probably will never have to do this, but you can if it's necessary.
You can do this for other settings too. On that big rebuild I just mentioned. This engine had a counter balancer in it. I had two different manuals. The factory manual AND an after market manual from a well known publisher. I looked and looked in both manuals and they simply did not cover setting up the timing on that balancer. MAN, this is important. Get the balancer timing off and this engine will Wiggle like a Belly dancer ! I finally found some sort of instructions in a completely different part of the manual. One sentence. Not a word on how to time it right in the balancer section of the manual. I did make careful notes on this balancer when I disassembled it and I found the balancer marks too. No thanks to $90.00 worth of manuals. Sooo... if in doubt make your own marks. Why I didn't do it on the camshaft timing marks, which is the whole object of this page.... eludes me. I guess we all fall short !
Every time we assemble a four stroke engine we have to set the valve timing. It's quite simple but very important ! Set the engine at Top-Dead-Center (TDC) of the compression stroke, set the timing marks on the cam and you are done. Sounds so easy does it not ? It really is, but here are some things to remember.
Be sure to leave the camchain tensioner off till everything is lined up and the cam bearing caps torqued down. If you didn't replace the cam chain the marks may not line up exactly. This is due to the cam chain lengthening as it wears. Use your own discretion as to which cam sprocket tooth brings the marks closest to alignment. Now put on the cam chain tensioner and recheck the marks. You may have to do it several times to get everything right. Keep checking TDC on the flywheel, in case the crankshaft moved a bit.
On Multi Cylinder, Single Cam, engines set the number one cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and match the timing marks on the cam sprocket to the top of the head. Engines with two or more cylinders are especially fun to time. One or more of the valves are always partially open so things can change as you tighten down the cam bearing cap(s). Tighten the cam bearing caps or cover in a pattern. Tighten each bolt a little at a time so you pull everything down evenly. If there are rocker arms, make sure the ends of the rocker arms don't get caught on the edge of the valve stem as you tighen the cap down. The Rocker Arm Ends should be pressing on the center of the Valve Stem. Turn the engine back and forth gently till you know for sure that the cam is moving correctly.It should go together very smoothly. If you get ham handed here you can break very expensive parts. A four cylinder head is about $1400.00 (in 2006). Break a cam bearing cap and you get to buy a new one because the caps are not available separately. If all seems OK, go ahead and turn the engine over, slowly, in the direction of rotation. Go slow and make sure the valves don't hit anything. If you feel any resistance at all stop and find out why. Is a valve hitting a piston or a cam lobe binding on a rocker arm ? If you go slow you will catch the problem, fix it, and not hurt anything. Go fast and you can take everything back apart to replace expensive parts.

On most Kawasaki and Suzuki engines the marks are lines on the cam sparockets and should be even with the top edge of the cylinder head. There is one extra thing on Kawasakis and Suzukis. Count the number of cam chain rollers from the exhaust timing mark to the intake timing mark. The correct number will vary with each engine (Usually 18-31 rollers or so). Check your shop manual. Here too, go slow. Same as a single cam engine. Tighten everything a little at a time. Things should go together smoothly without binding. Remember to put the Cam Chain Tensioner on and then recheck everything.

The problem you describe could be several different things, however, I will post a solution for the most likely. The fact the the shut down occurs when you attempt to accelerate, indicates it is "starving", running out of fuel when you call for it. When you open the throttle, typically, you allow the engine to injest more fuel/air mix, thus the rpms go up. In your situation, your carb reponds to you opening the throttle by allowing more air, but the same amount of fuel, thus the mixture leans out, (too much air, not enough fuel to fire). The likely cause is an obstruction in the fuel delivery system. Could be a clogged fuel filter, trash in the fuel. A piece of trash in a carb jet. The fix is to check and clean everything in the lines, the filter, and possibly the carb. Hope this helps...GOOD LUCK!

Try getting the proper one from here:
www.onlinefreeebooks.net/automotive-machinery.../suzuki/

Look in the manuel or go on line to find your bike on bikebandit.com

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.

A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....

You can't, the computerized system is in place to stop exactly what you are trying to do, Steal the bike without the correct credentials. You can't reprogram or over-ride the computer. You need a bike electrician.