20 Most Recent 2003 Suzuki GZ 250 Marauder Questions & Answers

All valve adjustments are made with a cold engine.The intake is 0.001 to 0.003 (set them at 0.002) & exhaust is 0.003 to 0.005 (set them to 0.004) I have owned Suzuki's my whole adult life

check out your side stand safety switch

First remove the speedometer housing by removing the small screw below the speedo. remove the bolte at the front and rear of the tank. Lifting the tank and tilting it, remove the three lines going to the bottom and front of the tank. Remember where they go,(mark them if necessary). Carefully lift tank free of bike frame. Check large rubber pads (if installed) and reinstall them as found.

The only way to remove the seal is to pry it out, be caerful and don't damage the shaft or case.

Sounds like the oil is thick. Do you know what weight oil was installed last? If there was 40 weight put in and its getting colder out it get thicker. You can change the oil to a 30 weight and change the filter to see if that helps.

The first thing to do is take the battery out and have it charged and tested. I am betting that it is bad. If the battery turns out to be good you have an open circut draining the battery, but like I said I'm betting on the battery being bad.

I doubt its electrical in that sense.
1. check fuses
2. check alternator
3. check ignition components

For more help with above, see your owner's maual and buy a service manual. The library can help too. Service manuals are in reference 646

I assume you have checked and that you do have spark.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

If the bike has sat around for a while,there is a very good chance the clutch plates have fused together or the slide mechanism is seized.Get the clutch off and have a look at these things.ALWAYS make sure the clutch plates go back together in exactly the same order as they came out.And also the same sides of the plates that touch each other.Its not a big job.I hope this helps

check compressions

HAVE A LOOK IN THE HARD WEAR STORES YOU YOU MIGHT FIND SOMETHING THAT WILL DO THE TRICK

One explanation for this would be that your charging system is faulty. It is possible that the OLD battery was ok, but was not getting charged by the faulty charge system. You put in a new battery, that is part charged before sale and ran the battery flat because it wasn't charging. If you leave a discharged lead acid bettery for 20 minutes or so, it will pick up a little again and possibly let the bike start and run, but by the time you got home you had killed the battery completely.

All the facts fit, though I'm not promising that it is the problem.

Take the battery off and charge it with a charger. Now, put it back on the bike and run the bike (It should start) While the battery is on the bike, get a volt meter on it. It should read slightly over voltage (doesn't matter if its a 12 or 6 volt system, it will read a little over when the bike is running) when you turn the engine off, you should see the volt meter drop down to the stated battery voltage. If you get no hike with the engine running and drop as you power off, its a good sign the charging system is faulty. A similar test, start the bike, meter the battery and turn on the indicators, stop light and head light to pull as much power as you can, the battery voltage shouldn't dip, because the charge system should compensate. If it does dip, consider this a confirmation that the charging system is faulty.

sounds like the carbs need cleaning bad

Check the front tyre pressure

It could be both a dirty plug, crook lead/coil and/or fuel problem, possibly a vacum leak.
With such low mileage it would be very adviseable to do a full service and tune (probably a carburetor clean as well).
It is always a gamble when buying a vehicle that MAY only have a small problem.

The stator is to be checked.The battery voltage before and after driving.It should be checked.If the voltage is same,the stator is charging the battery.But if battery voltage decreases a lot after driving then it can be faulty stator causing this. Also check the fuel pressure and spark plugs.If the pressure is low it will take few attempts to start and if spark plugs are worn out or very old or got wet or moisture collected on spark plugs then it will take few attempts to start.Remove the terminals and clean then and reconnect.---------- This possibilities are to be checked,to troubleshoot the problem.This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

On every bike I've ever worked on, I've been able to remove the top end without unmounting the motor. If you are set on removing the entire motor, first remove the top end, then remove the motor from the frame. One particularly tricky fit was a 500cc polaris motor. I had to lift up the rear of the motor, swing the back end out to the left side while tilting the engine. Then I had to pull it straight back again, and tilt it more until the cylinder was parallel to the floor (the top of the cylinder pointed straight out of the right side of the frame and then it came out, fully assembled.