Valve (Cam) timing can be quite complex
or quite simple. The exact time the intake valves and exhaust valves
open and close will effect the amount of power produced by the engine
and at what RPM it is produced. All this opening and closing is set at
the factory and is all quite complex. We don't really need to concern
ourselves with the initial set up unless we have modified the engine and
changed the cam to a high performance one. Then we would want to
degree in the cam(s) with a degree wheel
bolted to the crankshaft. We are not concerned with that here. What we
want is to reproduce the original factory setting. This is quite simple
IF
we play by the rules.
Assembly actually starts with
disassembly. What do I mean ? Well,
LOOK at the camshaft marks
BEFORE
you take it apart. Set the engine at TDC (Top-Dead-Center) Of the
compression stroke (TDC on the #1 cylinder if it a multi cylinder
engine). Do the marks on the cam or cam sprocket match up with what the
manual says ? If they DON'T, I write down the marks that are used and
how they are used so that on reassembly I can reproduce the correct cam
(valve) timing. On twin cam engines I count the number of cam chain
rollers from the exhaust cam mark to the intake cam mark and write that
down too. I do this on every four stroke engine I disassemble.
Well, I'm SUPPOSED to do
this. On the last engine I rebuilt I forgot to do it, trusting in the
factory shop manual I had. Then I discovered it had some weird,
aftermarket, simi adjustable, cam sprockets. GREAT. I go to reassemble
the engine and the marks DO NOT MATCH the marks given in the factory
shop manual. Now what ? Who knows who made these cam sprockets and what
marks they used. I try what seem to be the factory marks but the cam
lobes just don't look positioned right. I try some other marks and that
looks better. I put it together... Runs great.
check the
timing marks. You can even make your own set of marks.
To make your own marks
(BEFORE you take it apart) just set (turn) the crankshaft so the #1
cylinder is at TDC (Top-Dead-Center) on the compression stroke (Both
intake and exhaust valves closed) and then make some marks on the
camshaft sprocket(s) and a corresponding mark on the cylinder head. Use
white paint. I suppose you could use a small punch mark, but I like
paint better. If it's a twin cam engine count the number of rollers
between marks you put on the camshaft intake and exhaust sprockets.
Write it all down or take a digital picture of it. You probably will
never have to do this, but you can if it's necessary.
You can do this for other
settings too. On that big rebuild I just mentioned. This engine had a
counter balancer in it. I had two different manuals. The factory manual
AND an after market manual from a well known publisher. I looked and
looked in both manuals and they simply did not cover setting up the
timing on that balancer.
MAN, this is important. Get the balancer
timing off and this engine will
Wiggle like a Belly dancer ! I
finally found some sort of instructions in a completely different part
of the manual. One sentence. Not a word on how to time it right in the
balancer section of the manual. I did make careful notes on this
balancer when I disassembled it and I found the balancer marks too. No
thanks to $90.00 worth of manuals. Sooo... if in doubt make your own
marks. Why I didn't do it on the camshaft timing marks, which is the
whole object of this page.... eludes me. I guess we all fall short !
Every time we assemble a four
stroke engine we have to set the valve timing. It's quite simple but
very important ! Set the engine at Top-Dead-Center (TDC) of the
compression stroke, set the timing marks on the cam and you are done.
Sounds so easy does it not ? It really is, but here are some things to
remember.
Be sure to leave the camchain tensioner
off till everything is lined up and the cam bearing caps torqued down.
If you didn't replace the cam chain the marks may not line up exactly.
This is due to the cam chain lengthening as it wears. Use your own
discretion as to which cam sprocket tooth brings the marks closest to
alignment. Now put on the cam chain tensioner and recheck the marks. You
may have to do it several times to get everything right. Keep checking
TDC on the flywheel, in case the crankshaft moved a bit.
On Multi Cylinder, Single
Cam, engines set the number one cylinder to TDC on the compression
stroke and match the timing marks on the cam sprocket to the top of the
head. Engines with two or more cylinders are especially fun to time. One
or more of the valves are always partially open so things can change as
you tighten down the cam bearing cap(s). Tighten the cam bearing caps or cover in a
pattern. Tighten each bolt a little at a time so you pull everything
down evenly. If there are rocker arms, make sure the ends of the rocker arms don't get caught on the edge of the valve stem as you tighen
the cap down. The Rocker Arm Ends should be pressing on the center of
the Valve Stem. Turn the engine back and forth gently till you know for sure that the cam is moving correctly.It should go together very smoothly. If you get ham
handed here you can break very expensive parts. A four cylinder head is
about $1400.00 (in 2006). Break a cam bearing cap and you get to buy a
new one because the caps are not available separately. If all seems OK,
go ahead and turn the engine over, slowly, in the direction of rotation.
Go slow and make sure the valves don't hit anything. If you feel any
resistance at all stop and find out why.
Is a valve hitting a piston or a cam lobe binding on a rocker arm ? If
you go slow you will catch the problem, fix it, and not hurt anything.
Go fast and you can take everything back apart to replace expensive
parts.
On most Kawasaki and Suzuki engines the
marks are lines on the cam sparockets and should be even with the top
edge of the cylinder head. There is one extra thing on Kawasakis and
Suzukis. Count the number of cam chain rollers from the exhaust timing
mark to the intake timing mark. The correct number will vary with each
engine (Usually 18-31 rollers or so). Check your shop manual. Here too,
go slow. Same as a single cam engine. Tighten everything a little at a
time. Things should go together smoothly without binding. Remember to
put the Cam Chain Tensioner on and then recheck everything.
On Multi Cylinder, Single
Cam, engines set the number one cylinder to TDC on the compression
stroke and match the timing marks on the cam sprocket to the top of the
head. Engines with two or more cylinders are especially fun to time. One
or more of the valves are always partially open so things can change as
you tighten down the cam bearing cap(s). Tighten the cam bearing caps or cover in a
pattern. Tighten each bolt a little at a time so you pull everything
down evenly. If there are rocker arms, make sure the ends of the rocker arms don't get caught on the edge of the valve stem as you tighen
the cap down. The Rocker Arm Ends should be pressing on the center of
the Valve Stem. Turn the engine back and forth gently till you know for sure that the cam is moving correctly.It should go together very smoothly. If you get ham
handed here you can break very expensive parts. A four cylinder head is
about $1400.00 (in 2006). Break a cam bearing cap and you get to buy a
new one because the caps are not available separately. If all seems OK,
go ahead and turn the engine over, slowly, in the direction of rotation.
Go slow and make sure the valves don't hit anything. If you feel any
resistance at all stop and find out why.
Is a valve hitting a piston or a cam lobe binding on a rocker arm ? If
you go slow you will catch the problem, fix it, and not hurt anything.
Go fast and you can take everything back apart to replace expensive
parts. 
