20 Most Recent 2002 Suzuki LS 650 Savage Questions & Answers

Most likely cause of fuel coming out of overflow hoses would be the float/needle and seat. It could be as simple as a piece of grit caught in the needle/seat that stops the float from closing off the fuel supply when the bowl is full. Or it could be a punctured float. Push it under some warm water and see if bubbles appear as the air inside expands or shake it and see if fuel is inside it. I would highly recommend a carb specialist redo your rebuild. A carb kit will only fix problems like cracked gaskets and dirt buildup.

Remove the battery box compartment cover. Disconnect the positive and negative battery leads. Undo the battery holding down clamp screws and remove the battery clamp, now you can lift out the battery.Place the new battery in the battery box and secure the battery hold down clamp. Connect the battery leads to the battery, the red lead to the battery's positive terminal and the black negative lead to the battery'e negative terminal, then replace the battery box cover.

Have you tried a cleaner liquid? If that is not working, remove the carb, open it and clear the jets.

One down (first), four up.
Unless the box is toast... but you would hear it... it isn't exactly a new model - who knows how hard a life it has had...

the lights, the ignition, and the starter should have there own fuses, if the starter and ignition have the same fuse then check the starter relay for power in and out if you have power in and none out the relay might be faulty, but just check if the engine on-off switch is on and not in the off position, also the two wires to that switch unplug them and connect them together that would be the same as the on position, just to see if the switch is ok. good luke.

we have this problem too. Trued cleaning the whole fuel system, changing the carb & plugs. Some one told us that the coil is bad or the key ignition needs replacing as too many keys hanging when driving is bad. I sold it but the new owner is stumped too. It may be a common problem but who knows??? Best of Luck!

You can't figure out the EXACT settings without some equipment. If you can't afford to get the equipment and the training necessary, and you can't afford to get it fixed, dont mess with it.Don't get mad, get it fixed by a pro or be prepared to be stuck or walk.If it ain't broke don't try to fix it.

maybe water n gas or fuel air mix problem or maybe even float stickin

I just bought the same bike. I had to choke it hard to even get it to start. Seemed as if it was running lean. It sputtered under acceleration and would die when I pushed the choke in. My first step I filled the tank the tank with 93 octane gas. This is a high compression motor. After gas swap my bike jumped out of it's skin. No more choking and very smooth through the power band and does not sputter no more. A totally different bike from then

Hi put your bike on the side stand get some blocks or something to put under the frame as far back under the frame tp lift the rear wheel off the ground spin your tire maybe the mechanic adjusted the rear wheel off center and its rubbing the fender, swing arm. or belt guard.

its problably varnish in the carbs after a biuke sets it varnishs up I would put some sea foam in gas ttank and run it thru this will clean it out and will not hurt engine it cleans everything out

Lifter tapping.

Since this bike has been in storage for eight years my feeling is that things might still be a bit stiff and gummed up.The best thing to do I think would be to take it out and ride it and get all the parts freed up and moving again.Do an oil change after a couple of thousand kms and see if it makes any difference.I can't see a bike with that kind of low riding time having any great problems BUT keep an ear on things. Good luck and good riding.

It sounds like a fuel delivery problem allowed the float chambers to empty out under load. When you down shifted, you reduced the load, and the minimal flow was able to refill the float chambers.

Motorcycle carburetors have no accelerator pumps as automobile carbs do, so working the throttle only seems to have done good due to the time it took to do that.

If you have a fuel filter, replace it. remove a fuel line from its carburetor, and see how the flow is. You probably have a vacuum operated fuel petcock, so you will need to supply vacuum to that to get the fuel to flow. Removing the vacuum kine from the engine, then using your mouth to provide the vacuum is an easy, cheap way to do that — it takes very little vacuum to open the petcock. If you do that, and you can continuously draw air down that line, the diaphragm is ruptured, and will need to be replaced.

Try www clymer.com

its likley to be the kye switch playing up on you try giving it a good swilling with switch cleaner and turning it on and off a good fuw times it could be full of water???

on the right site engine cover ,got three bolts on front site of the cover under this cap is it oil filter

check ilde jets,transfer ports,and air bleeds and float level

ok heres the basics fuel air spark i start.{hura}
so easy first fuel change fillter second buy spark plug tester cranker over if spark good use a small shot of starter in air box {fires } allow to sit for min as you ck all your fuses turn her over if it attempts then it's fuel possible injector or pump {low presure}