20 Most Recent 2001 Suzuki VL 1500 Intruder LC - Page 5 Questions & Answers

check your decompresson cables if they dont open the starter will drag rear cyclender is the problem on mine easy fix

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Hi and welcome to the site,

The clutch uses the same type of fluid, DOT 4 brake fluid, as used in the brakes.

Good luck and thank you for asking.

Remember to stand the bike upright before checking the oil level, if oil is needed you should speak to the shop who did your last service. Ask them the grade of oil they use as a standard, purchase some new oil and top up as nessesary. If you did the service yourself and you can't remember the type and grade of oil you used, it would be best to change it and enter the details into the service book. Remember to always check the oil level standing upright as the oil level on the side stand will be totally different.

You are in neutral, clutch pulled in, kick stand up when you push the button?

Check the voltage on the starter side of the solenoid when you press the start button. Your solenoid may need service or replacement. You may also be able to jump over the solenoid with a heavy cable brom the battery to see if the starter will run.

Try either, MAKE @#$%@ SURE you are in N and the clutch is pulled in before you try this stunt.

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Check the start solenoid, start side. shoud be no voltage unless you press the start switch. With start switch pressed, you should jump from no volts to 12 volts. Check with 12 volt light or volt/ohm meter to ground.

You may also have safety interlocks ... engine in neutral? kick stand up? KILL switch is in the RUN position?

check exhaust bolts and clamps are tight,silencers could be choking up and need decoking,air filter may need cleaning or changing,clean carb float bowls.chech jets are clean,check thottles open together so balanced,clean and regap plugs ,at that millage new plugs wouldnt hurt,

Check your battery connections.

Get a filter wrench at walmart (plastic) or Auto zone type place, unscrew drain plug and after all is drained then take off filter. It works bette if you warm up the bike first so the oil is warm and flows better. The oil fill and dip stick is behind the rear chrome cover on the right side. Two allen screws to remove the cover. Check for no leaks by running her after you fill up with oil.

4.4 quarts if you are changing your oil filter when you change your oil. I own a 2003 Suzuki Intruder 1500 VL.

it is probably not a weak spark. if you are determing this because the plug is sooting up and fouling and or the bike is missing or just not running right. your carbs need rebuilt. know of same problem with friends bike. tried eveything. coils igniter etc.. check out g man industries.com give them a call they will explain what is going on with your bike

unhook all the brake linkages and rods,axle nut,pull the axle out,and shift the entire wheel to the right and it should pull out,its really easy,although i know it sounds a little overwelming

Up shifting CLUNK on a shaft drive motorcycle is caused by all the drive line slop. Don't tap the shifter with your foot when you shift. Try putting gentle pressure on the lever with your foot, then pull the clutch and shift the gear. This technique should eliminate the CLUNK.

TO ANSWER QUESTION NO THE TRANS WILL HAVE TO BE GONE INTO AND WITHOUT PROPER TOOLS AND KNOWLEDGE THIS CAN BE QUITE A TASK EVEN WITH THESE YOU EITHER HAVE A GEAR OR SYNCHRONIZER GOING OR GONE BAD USUALLY IF IT JUMPS OUT OF GEAR ON SUDDEN DECEL IT,S THE GEAR ITSELF BUT OTHERWISE MAY BE SYNC. HOPE THIS HELPS KNOW IT,S NOT WHAT YOU WANT TO HEAR

According the my manual it says to tighten them to 17 ft/lbs. But be aware. They also recommend that a thread locking compound be used as well. At only 17 ft/lbs I sure as heck would use the stuff.

Look for a screw on the side of the bucket just behind the headlight ring. It may be between the side and bottom, and there may be one on each side. I can't give you a positive placement to it because I have a 2006 model and it looks to have a slightly different set up on it. But my manual is for all the model years.

Once you get the ring off pull the bulb out carefully as it will be still attached buy it's plug. Undo the plug and remove the boot from the back of the bulb housing.
There should be some kind of retaining system such as a wire spring or screws, or even a plastic locking ring to hold the bulb in place in the housing. Pull this off and the bulb should slid right out through the back of the housing.
This bike (both mine AND yours) uses a quartz halogen bulb insert (like most cars do now a days) so please be careful handling the bulb. If you get grease, or oil (even the natural oil from your fingers) on it it will blow your new bulb in a very short time. So if you get any kind of oil on it, or accidentally touch it, wipe the bulb off good with alcohol.

If you went to a less restrictive exhaust and didnt rejet and the bike is popping its running to lean. Need to rejet the carbs when you open up the exhaust.

Sounds like you are getting the bike into neutral, just the light is not coming on because of the loss of power. If the engine just immediately stopped, you probably just as abruptly lost power, probably a connection issue. If the engine sputtered before stopping, it means that it was a gradual loss of power,(stopped charging), and the you were running off the battery until it totally drained. The fact that it won't jump, leads me to believe that you suddenly lost power. Your post stops suddenly as well, I believe you are saying that the battery still has a charge. You will need to check all connections and all grounds. A wiring diagram would be helpful. There are ignition components that would keep the bike from starting, your issue is total power loss, I'm assuming no head lights, brake lights, no horn, which will probably make your fix cheaper. Look for a bare place in the wiring, where something, (a cable for example) could have worn a wire to the point that it is either worn completely into, or has grounded...possibly blowing a fuse. Check fuses. If the fuse did blow, you still have the problem that caused it. This will take patience, don't overlook anything, follow your wiring, starting at the battery and tracing backwards for something amiss. You may have to remove parts to follow the wires. You'll find it, it may take awhile. Good Luck. Hope this helps.

THE TRANSMISSION MORE THAN LIKELY HAS A BENT SHIFT FORK WHICH WILL REQUIRE COMPLETE DISASSEMBLY OF THE ENG. AND TRANS. BUT FIRST MAKE SURE THE LINKAGE ISN'T WORN ENOUGH DISALLOWING THE FULL STROKE OF THE SHIFTER.

if you go on carlsalter.com there is proberly a manual for free download on the site