20 Most Recent 2001 Suzuki GSX-R 750 Questions & Answers

Check sidestand and clutch lever lockout switches...

Your shifter cam bolt has backed out, this is a common problem on earlier GSXR's. Happened twice on my 2000, both times during race weekends.

Stop riding the bike and shifting at all and do the following repair:

Remove clutch cover - you'll drain some oil so make sure you have a drip pan underneath

Remove the 5 the clutch housing plate bolts - careful as they have pretty stiff springs behind them providing torsion

Remove all the clutch plates - make sure you keep the same order and re-install the same way; matter of fact if you have never replaced your clutch plates, do it along with this repair.

Once the clutch case is basically empty, you will see at the lower left a small assembly that looks a bit like a tuning fork, at the end of the shifter shaft. There is also a cam there with rounded cogs. There is a 8mm or 10 mm hex head bolt that holds this cam, and I'm sure it has backed out and is causing the cam and shifter to not engage the gears properly.

Remove the cam bolt. Spray some compressed air or even a light spray of brake cleaner in the threaded area where the bolt you just removed is. Make sure the threads are clean and dry.

Place the cam bolt and assembly back in its position, and take some RED loctite to the shifter cam bolt threads. Make sure to torque the bolt to specifications, I think it's 24 or 28 nm.

Let the bolt set for 24-8 hours, then reassemble the clutch and replace the clutch cover gasket. Top off the oil and go riding.

were is the rattling coming from?the onle rattling that i can think of without noing were its coming from is your chain might be snaping around from 1st to 2nd cause its a little to loose, or your cam chain is a litttle loose. a bolt near the engine could be loose and the vibes from the engine can be rattling. tell me wat bike u got, the year and were the noise is coming from and other details and i can help u out

check for intake leaks generally this is the first thing you check for a erratic idle

Hi, if the oil light is staying on...........BIG bucks to fix if you run it for too long, you should hear the engine banging away quite noisely if the oil pressure is way too low Is the bike fuel injected or does it have carburettors, if it is the F.I light, it could be a blocked fuel filter causing a drop in fuel pressure at the injectors..... hence the warning light coming on.Get yourself a friendly bike shop to have a look for you... ask your friends if they use someone they would reccomend to you. Merry Xmas.

no. l have an k2 gsxr 1000 and when my bike gets up around 100 degrees the thermo fan kicks in to maintain cooling.check your thermo fan and fuses

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

When did you replace the clutch? YOu may be facing clutch issue that's why it kicks. You will need to replace the clutch lining for smooth operation.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Make sure its not left handed thread or there may be red locktight on threads witch you need to heat to remove

Any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Car oils use different additives. Do not use any oil that says Energy Conserving on the label . It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. If you use Synthetic oils, they will help your bike run cooler and shift easier.Suzuki sells a fairly inexpensive full synthetic motor oil ($7 to $8).You will need 4 quarts of oil, an oil filter,a drain bolt washer, and anoil filter wrench. Pour in 3 plus quarts, whatever it takes to hit the high mark on the dipstick or viewing window . Run the engine to fill the dry filter. Recheck the oil level and top off to the high mark. You will use between 3 and 4 quarts depending on how much is left in the motor after you drain the old oil. You can reuse the aluminum crush washer if it is not out of shape (looks flat like a normal washer)but keep a spare on hand in case the bolt was overtightened on a previous oil change and the washer is contorted out of shape. Remember to only tighten the oil filter and drain bolt enough so they seal. Do not over tighten or you will have problems next oil change.

if this was fitted to the bike when you bnought it, then you should have been given the certificate for the datatool alarm by the previouse owner, the installer or fitter of the alarm sends a copy of the certificatee to datatool when they have completed the job regestering the machine details, including the reg number of the bike,they will also identify the type of alarm from this, you will need a copy of this for your insurance company, you could try contacting customer support at www.datatool.co.uk/ - Cached - Similar


Datatool UK Limited
Building D4A
Fairoaks Airport
Chobham
Surrey
GU24 8HU
T: +44 (0)844 871 7947
F: +44 (0)844 871 7953

hope this helps

the starter motor is probly du for a makeover-1st chec if contact cables r tite or corroded--its not hard to repair usually its somethin simple like brushes-getta a clymer book ther detailed for the whole bike--

i know it sounds wierd but you need to replace the battery, you should only be getting 12.5 to 13.1 volts on a battery while the engine isnt running, sounds like you have a dead cell

can i assume that you mean the bike cranks over but wont start? Well you can rule out immediately changing the oil...(unless you used way too thick an oil brand, eg: a 20w50 or heavier and live in a cold climate), but i"ll assume you dont and you live near the beach where it nice and warm. Now you changed all four plugs, when you pulled up on the plug wires, i"ll assume that you didnt pull them up by the small diameter wire and pulled them up by the boots instead while twisting them out correct?, because this is the correct way to pull plug wires. The other way damages them, also you made sure that you heard a clicking noise letting you know that the plugs were firmly seated to the boot..o.k. And im almost positive that you went out and purchased the "same" exact plugs that where in there. Now take the #1 plug out and let it touch the frame of the bike, start the bike and look to see if you get a big blusish spark, not a reddish-purple. if its reddish purple you got either a bad coil or the pulse generators are going bad. Now i"ll assume that you didnt replace the plug wires and hopefully didnt get them out of firing order and replaced them one at a time to insure that they would be in the correct position? the bikes left side coil = #1 and #4 cylinders, and the right coil= #2 and#3, so now...this just leaves one more thing, did you check the gap on the new pulgs before installing because even though they say they're pregapped they could be wrong, just the other day i changed the plugs in my car and the where all off by .003. Anyway if you did everything properly did you possibly trip the kill switch, or dump the bike tripping the titlt sensor? because this will kill voltage to the fuel pump and it wont start. Check fuse to fuel pump, if good, then disconnnect battery for 5 minutes, and hook back up...now measure voltage on the battery since you have the seat off ...the battery should read at least 12.5v or > or it probably wont start. Next take the connector off the fuel pump and check it for 12 volts as well. The bike should start now.
Now if you mean the bike wont crank now thats a totally didnt story. and either your solenoid went bad... but you can find out real quick by taking a srew driver and following the two battery cables, it"ll lead you to a small black looking thing with to big terminals on it,..just turn key on and short together these to post with the screw driver, if the bike starts, then its a bad solenoid, or if it doesnt the starter is probably at faulf or the wiring going to the starter.
hopfully this will help you get it going good luck
Can i get a very helpful rating Thanks!
Now if all this fails theres one more thing to try (after you have insured yourself that everything was done properly), and that is to try and see if it will push start!...if it does, then its a fuel issue, this means that you have an fuel injection problem and maybe something is clogged up so go to Autozone and purchase a can of Sea Foam and pour 1/3 can into 2 gallons of fuel and ride the bike after the push start and ride it for 10-15 miles to see if this will clear it up. it worked for me after 11 miles.
Can i get a veryhelpful out of this one...thanks!

Hi,

Read :-

http://www.bugmanweb.com/gsxr/gsxrindex.html

It would have all the Explanation. You need to Install Dealer Switch First. There is a Procedure How to Install that as well. Follow the Procedure and you would get an Error Code. Once you get that, Kindly look at the Tech Sheet and you could Fix it Yourself and save money.

I love the way he explained the Common Problem in these Models.

Let me know, if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Maybe not check your vacuum hose to carb.

sounds like it has a cell gone down. you will need a new one.

motorcycle fans are small there for if it is extremely hot outside you need to be putting wind through the radiator! I raced motocross for a few years and those bikes dont have fans and if you let one run for too long it will overheat. my 2001 gsxr 750 does the same thing, needless to say its normal. any engine of this calibur is gonna need something like engine ice radiator coolant or water wetter, which can be found at local auto stores or bike shops. try satying away from dense city rides which are a stop and go scene!

Check your fuse, if good check relay, check all connections.

have a look at your clutch cable,is it adjusted right if it isnt it will create all types of problems with your gearbox,make sure you change the oil every 100000 kms.

It is not safe to drive with the oil light on, you risk major engine damage. It means low oil pressure. The FI light means a fault with the fuel injection system. You will need diagnostic equipment connected to the bike to read the fault code(s). Most likely this will be at a shop.