20 Most Recent 2001 Suzuki SV 650 S Questions & Answers

The first thing that you can check is the fuel pump, wiring and fuel filter. The power wires coming from the ignition, sometimes get corroded. the symptoms sounds like fuel starvation.

I would suggest the ignition switch is defective, examine the connecter to the switch for signs of overheating of the plastic connector shell and wire connectors inside the shell, if it shiows signs of heat then replace the connector and the switch. If the connector is ok then replace the switch itself. You may need to find the connector in a salavage yard or check with the delaer.

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Check kill switch, side stand switch, main power connector to ignition under tank, petrol pump and fuel filter

cylinolyld

theres adjusters each side of the cable, the heavier adjuster being on the engine side

well, the important question is, are you gonna use it for racing? if not, just buy a replacement barrel and key or if you prefer having one key for everything a whole lockset. Suzuki will charge for all 4 of your limbs and maybe your **** for that, so Ebay will be your friend. or if your not to bothered about OEM parts then check out www.MandP.com or www.Demontweeks.co.uk for pattern part ignition barrels ready to plug in. the racing route is easy enough, but if its insured most insurers wont pay out in a claim as theres no steering lock and the fact anyone can jump on and start it.

bump up the idle speed a little and see if this helps the sitation

The bike has a slightly bent shift fork. The repair is a pretty major operation and I don't recommend the casual mechanic attempt it. Below is a diagram showing how the shift drum moves slider gears for different gear changes. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

The plug gap must be 0.7 mm (0.028") and the plug type is NGK CR8E.

It will feel tight at the bottom, the clutch lever probably gives something like a 10-1 leverage.
You may be able to move the bottom lever with a small pipe or spanner attached , but I would suggest wait for the new cable.

Has the cableing suffered any damage?

I would say the voltage regulator is not working. Has an altenator wire been damaged?

If it sat with the valves or a valve stuck in an open position then the valves will need to be freed up before it will start and run.You can remove the valve cover to see if they are working correctly.

Check the wires to the indicators & switch ,you may have a short .which is draining the power out of the battery. When you get your bike running ,put a D/C voltage tester agross the battery terminal .At 1000 revs you shoukld have 13.5 volts .Rev up to 3000 and it should stay constant .if you are not getting 13.5 volts your regulator may be a fault .

Not being able to see the bike makes it hard to assess. Get your self a manual, if you haven't got one, go to http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp , and download one. Once you have it apart you will be able to see the damage, and rectify it, and you may even work out what caused it. Sounds to me as if you blew a seal, whether from to much oil or not is very hard to say.

Sounds like the carbs need to be disasembled and cleaned. Make shure you clean all jets and readjust the float. the air/fuel screw will be 1 1/2 turns out from seat.

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remove spark plugs from block, place tread on block, turn over engine, best if blue, white ok, orange spark is bad, if you are getting orange, your ignition system is weak, usually the coil, and needs to be replaced. also make sure to take out the plugs after attempting to start, andmake sure they are wet and getting fuel.

Have you replaced the battery? Some of the cells might of been dameged when it was laid down therefore it will not hold a charge.