20 Most Recent 2000 Suzuki VL 1500 Intruder LC - Page 9 Questions & Answers

I found some on google. Type in your problem then google pulled up some web sites with diagrams

Sputtering or popping through the carburetor as well as high idle is typically associated with an air leak (bad gaskets/intake manifold) on the intake side of the motor. The backfiring through the exhaust is also associated to leaking exhaust pipe gaskets in the head and some times the head pipe to muffler gaskets. Cleaning the carburetor is always a good idea when experiencing running problems. My guess is that the mechanic reused the gaskets on the motorcycle allowing the problem to get worse . He could have accidentally fixed the popping problem by putting in new gaskets and manifold and had a happy customer with out the time saving short cut.
As for the new sound like an alarm clock with no bell, Your motorcycle is equipped with hydraulic lifters. This problem is probably unrelated to your dealer experience. They should have been able to diagnose or test it for you. The number one reason you would have a clatter or clicking would be if an automatic cam chain tensioner went bad. But from your description (the number two reason) you probably have a hydraulic lifter that is stuck or not holding pressure. When a hydraulic lifter does not zero tolerance itself the way it is designed , you end up with ticking or clattering. This was a common problem in 1983 when Honda first put hydraulic lifters in there Shadow 750. But because of better quality control and better materials this clacking lifter problem is one that most newer mechanics have not seen. It is rare but I suspect you have a lifter gone bad. Remember to only use JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. Do not use any oil that says Energy Conserving. Synthetics help your bike run cooler and shift easier which would also help sticking lifter issues. I do not believe fuel additives will do any thing for your situation except preserve your fuel for long storage.

pull your choke fully closed and see if backfires, if it does close the
half way . and crank it , it should start . you have to have full charge in your battery, do not crank until you do this. if it does run
you have replace your battery, let me know, maybe I can help you
further . good luck.

Actually the PAIR system is used to reduce the emissions. If in your country the bikes aren't tested for emissions regularly then it's perfectly ok to remove it.

it is that wear u are seeing that is causing the problem, replace those parts. and since u are in there also replace the shifter forks, trust me it should clear the problem

Thanks for the clarification. You may have fuel flooding, this is caused by faulty or worn spark plugs. Get yourself a new spark plugs for better fuel burning. When cold it runs fine but fails when hot and can start when jump from a car battery this is because theres enough current to fire up the plugs for the car battery is stronger. I suggest that you replace the plug wire too for better current flow. Hope this helps and have a good one!

bad button in handlebar switch assy.

Probabily your clutch is slipping.

Check if the clutch command isn't to tight.
Did you use the correct engine oil type?

If both are good, your clutch paltes will be worn. Replace the plates, the counter plates and the springs

You need to check the trueness of the rim, The front Axel my be bent. One of the fork tube may be bent. Fork tube oil in one of the tubes may be low. The neck bearings my need replaced or tightened.

The maximum PSI will be embossed on the sidewall of each tire. It is probably 45psi. Inflate to max and the ride is like a rock. Inflate to 20psi and the ride is really spongy and squirrely. Set the pressure where the bike rides and handles like you want it to. You will probably end up at around 35 psi.

Please rate this solution. Thanks

Go have a look at www.moccsplace.com
It offers a complete owner manual in the garage section. I'm sure you'll have the diagram there. Over 200 pages of info.

I Know this may sound stupid,but are you sure the low beam part of the globe is not blown.

this sounds very much like tight valve clearances. do a compression test. ya looking for at least 120 psi. good luck

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.

A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....

You can't, the computerized system is in place to stop exactly what you are trying to do, Steal the bike without the correct credentials. You can't reprogram or over-ride the computer. You need a bike electrician.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E210US1494G0&p=repair+manual+for+1986+Suzuki+cavalcade+gv1400

The crank case will be almost as hot as the oil flowing around the engine, lubricating the bearings.