20 Most Recent 2000 Suzuki GZ 125 Marauder Questions & Answers

Check the gear lever isnt stiff or seized.

Bad battery or bad ground

Face the fuel valve 12 o'clock is ON, 9 o'clock is off, 3 o'clock is reserve. ,

TRIED USEING A COAT HANGER THIN PIECE OF METAL BEND IT TO SHAPE AND CATCH LATCH/PRY OPEN REPLACE LATCH AND OR SEAT ETC.

I had this problem today with my bike and after much ado I discovered there was oil in the air filter box... check your oil level it could be too full. Mines was and the excess oil was blown into the air filter box and as a result contaminated the air filter. Spent today cleaning the filter box, carb and draining and changing oil, could not get a new air filter today so ran it without onebike runs like new!! New air filter will be here Monday!

Sounds like the cut off switch at the stand is faulty

Go to Babbitt's and you can see an exploded view of your carb. Please rate my answer. www.babbittsonline.com

Your kickstand may have to be up otherwise the bike will shut off.... saftey switch may be bad if kickstand is up.

Won't start 2008 Suzuki Marauder GZ125. The starter switch does not work every time when it doesn't I switch off give it a few seconds try again sometimes it works others it doesn't I try waggling steering sometimes that helps.

this often means there is a problem with one of the side stand safety switches, there is one activated by the stand, and some models also have another switch under the clutch lever

The bike could be fitted with a side stand cut off switch. this is to stop the rider driving off with the side stand down. also if the bike is in gear the bike should not start, this is linked to the clutch/gears. AGAIN IT STOPS THE RIDER FIRING UP THE BIKE AND THE NEXT thing he is aware of is his bike either taking off with out him or hitting a wall or car etc.
hope this helps
og

hi, you could try lubricating the cable first with some lite oil, or wd40 or similar, are you sure it is the cable and not the brake shoe cam, try undoing the cable, push manualy on the arm from the rear brake drum, doing this will eliminate the cable being the possible cause, when you push on the lever on the rear brake drum with the cable undone from it, the arm should return freely when pushed or pulled, if it is seized at this point you will have to remove the rear wheel,remove the lever from the cam drift out cam from hub, and clean and lubricate before reasembly, when replacing the cable it is important you alow at least 10mm free play in travel, and check for free movment of wheel before use, also ensure you have enough travel to alow operation of rear brake light.

Sometimes a dirty oil filter will cause lack of oil to the top end at startup.
As soon as the oil warms, it flows better and faster and hence the noise goes away after warm up.

If you need valves adjusted, the motor must be at TDC on compression stroke(both valves closed)
The motor must be cold do not try to adjust the valve clearance on a warm engine.

On TDC, pull the valve covers and check the clearance on the intake and exhaust valves by inserting a feeler gauge under the tappet.
INTAKE should be : .03-05mm
EXHAUST should be .05-.08 mm

Im sure you don't need a valve adjustment. but if you do: Put Engine on TDC
Loosen the locknut with a 9 or 10 mm wrench, stick the feeler gauge under the tappet, and tighten the little square tipped valve adjuster screw clockwise until you feel friction on the feeler guage.
Enough friction that the feeler gauge feels tight but you can still slide it back and forth.
Not carefully tighten the locknut. Check the feeler guage during tightening to make sure it didn't get too tight or too loose. Once you set the clearance, move to the next valve, and repeat the process using the other feeler guage.
Once both are done put the covers back on and your done,

NOTE: You may have to remove seat, gas tank, airbox, and side covers to get to the covers.

Sounds as if its starving for fuel. The corroborator could be dirty inside causing it to clog up and not show its best potential. Should be simple to take apart, remove, clean, and put back together

A plugged up main jet in the carb could be the problem. Remove the float bowl and clean the carb. I prefer removing the entire carb from the bike then doing the cleaning. Carb cleaner can mess up the paint job.
Clean or replace the air filter. Another possibility is the muffler could be partially plugged up due to mud or a collapse of the pipe inside the muffler. Disconnect the exhaust then see if the problem is gone. Also, be sure you have clean oil in the gearbox, a well oiled chain, good gas, and a new spark plug.

Sounds like it is running very lean. Look for a plugged filter at the tank fuel tap or maybe an 'inline' filter. Make sure the air filter and the exhaust system are not plugged. Did you tear the carburetor down and blow out all passages with compressed air when you cleaned it? Don't blow into the fuel inlet with compressed air as it will crush a metal float. (don't ask how I know this!) Hope this helps!

You need at a minimum, a shop manual for your model. Check at http://www.suzukiownersclub.org/usa/ for a manual. Look in the tools section for guidance on what special tools you will need for this.

First call the shop that did the work if they are worth anything they will help you out.
After i build a motor it always has a valve adj. after it has ran for a few i like to do it around 100 miles this lets everything find its groove if you will. Good luck
Mark
C.C. Motorsports

You will probably find it under the seat. Find the 8 mm or so bolts just under the padding at the back of your seat.