20 Most Recent 1999 Suzuki SV 650 - Page 11 Questions & Answers

Try google. Lots of answers there.

Step 1 Pull back the rubber cover of the clutch lever to reveal the lock nut and adjusting screw. Loosen the lock nut with a wrench. Tighten the adjuster screw until it won't turn any more. Step 2 Remove the left frame cover of the body of the bike and set it aside in a safe place. Remove the bolts holding the secondary gear case cover and the clutch release cover with a socket wrench. Remove the secondary gear case and clutch release cover and set them aside. Step 3 Find the lock nut and screw located at the lower end of the clutch assembly cable. Loosen the lock nut. Loosen the screw by three rotations. Slowly finger tighten the adjusting screw until you start to feel resistance. Loosen the screw a quarter-rotation. Tighten the lock nut to hold it in place. Step 4 Locate the lower cable adjuster above the clutch release cover. Loosen the two lock nuts of the adjuster with the socket wrench. Turn the cable adjuster screw and check the clutch lever as you turn. Tighten the adjuster screw until the clutch lever will wiggle loosely or "play" about 1/8-inch. Tighten the lock nuts. Tighten the lock nut of the clutch lever. Replace the clutch release, secondary gear case and left frame cover. Pull the rubber cover back over the clutch lever.

Request the information from Suzuki.

All the parts are marked here. The mixture screw is hidden behind a cap. https://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/508aea5af87002353072263e/carburetor Here are videos on adjusting idle speed https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=ALeKk00VxvgDsBmzQW7X3qWQgPXYw2VucQ%3A1605738592578&ei=YKC1X7jMIoOo5NoPqL-u8Ac&q=2002+suzuki+ozark+250+carburetor+idle+adjustment ..

There should be an adjustment on the carburetor. If you follow the throttle cable to the carburetor, and turn the throttle, you will see what moves on the carburetor when opening the throttle. Whatever part moves, there should be a screw or knob that you can adjust to raise or lower the idle.

then buy a new starter

This motorcycle has a hydraulic clutch. It probably needs to be bled, or has a bad slave or master cylinder. Try bleeding it first.

Probably caused by a clutch fault - failing to clear...

On the right side of the bike near the site glass for the oil level there may be a chrome cover you will need to remove. it should be somewhere near your right heel as you ride the bike. On the large round crank case cover. Some older bikes use the same cap to included the 'dip' stick.

Running a thicker grade of oil will certainly not harm any engine components. However, it may be harder to start as the oil will be thicker when cold than the 10-40 weight.

This may be a vaccum leak. When extra air gets into the combustion chamber, it causes high idle. Check to make sure that all rubber hoses are tight and not cracked.

The footbrake usually has a return spring to release the brake. Is yours broken/missing?

A lot of times the cards rarely get cleaned even if it seems cleaned....I always take carb cleaner to each jet then just to make sure shoot air through the jets an around outside and inside carb or carbs.....if that didn't help then maybe the air and fuel adjust screws vibrated loose...should be 2 screws either by the fuel line side of carb or on top .....if u don't know much about those tuning screws then I'd recommend taking to someone who dose otherwise you'll sell it be for it gets set right again

Not one of the answers above was anything less than total drivel.

Blew the fuse? Check the cable between the starter solenoid and the starter. There is possibility that there is a short in that wire that is grounding when voltage is applied to the starter.

Perhaps the immobiliser isn't disarming?

under the rear tail faring

Black fuel is a sign of too much fuel. Too much fuel will dilute the oil causing it to be thin and sucked into the cylinders. Check the air filter and carb float level.

Check the rear shock absorber and spring. Some bikes have preset 'notches' to raise and lower the ride height. You will need to raise the bike on a SAFE centre lift to take the weight off the rear suspension arm to adjust it. Most bikes have it set to the middle notch as standard. If the shock assembly is still too high you might need to replace the shock And spring to a shorter, stiffer set.

Connect an OBDII code reader into the diagnostics to read the fault code! Fix the fault and then reset the codes! If the fault is fixed the vehicle will be driveable again!