In most cases you would be dealing with a bad stator or voltage regulator. In the case of Suzuki I have found several instances of weak magnets on the flywheel were causing slow discharge of the battery. If you are not running any accessories with memory (radio, clock, etc.), you have replaced your voltage regulator, load tested your battery, and tested your stator for grounding, you may be dealing with a weak magnet in your flywheel. If everything is checking out OK then try replacing your flywheel.
Your starter button is good. The starter spins when you bench test it. Take a piece of metal/wire and jump the solenoid terminals or just touch the battery cable to the starter cable together , if the starter works you need a new stater solenoid. If the starter is turning over but the engine is not, you need a new starter one way clutch and the gear it grabs inside the motor.
Hi 1st check the headlamp fuse 2nd check the bulbs 3rd check continuity across the hi / low beam switch & for power into it I could go on & on but hopefully the above will be enough to diagnose the problem If you need more help I will need more information. I am available on 'Live Chat' at the moment
Please mark this as very helpful (if it has been!!)
Check for a loose or poorly connected lead from the loom exiting crankcase. There should be 7-9 wires. one of these feeds from the secondary source coil (hi revs). If all connections are 100% ignition coils secondary windings maybe shot. Ignition coil is cheap to replace. The CDI unit or black box is rarely at fault, hence the exhorbitant cost. Assuming plugs/fuel is good. Cheers.
This is a 1999 SV650, right? The brakes are hydraulic. The cable, is it on the left hand? This is a clutch cable. i suppose that makes no difference in the installation, though, so here goes: There is a bolt with a nut on the bottom of it in the middle of the pivot for the lever. Loosen and remove this bolt and nut and slide or pivot out the old lever. Turning the lever towards the front of the bike, you will be able to release the cable. Using this same technique in reverse, install the new lever and you are all set to ride! If the lever is on the right, it IS the brake lever and its installation is super-easy. No cable to deal with, just the bolt and nut and you are done.
You need 3 things for an engine to run; spark, fuel and compression. How is the compression? Is the spark plug new? If the plug is old, it could give a nice spark when you check it but have no spark under compression. Make sure the fuel you're using is fresh. If you give it a small shot of starting fluid and it fires up, your fuel delivery is suspect. In that case, you will need to remove the carb an THOROUGHLY clean it paying close attention to jets and passages. I always give people this warning: when cleaning jets and passages, NEVER use steel instruments. Use wood, copper wire or other materials that are softer than the material you're working on or you run the risk of ruining jets or even the entire carburetor.
Hi, use your key to open the side panel. You have to unscrew both battery posts in place, then slide the battery out. Don't loose the nuts that the battery screws screw into. Once the battery is charged, you need to put the nuts in place inside the terminals and carefully slide the battery in without disturbing the nuts. Then the screws will go into the nuts for tightening. Always loosen the negative cable first and replace it last to minimize the chance of shorting the positive to ground when attaching the positive cable. Please let me know if you have more questions. I have one of these and I have the manual for it.
Yes it may but as a first course of action I strongly suggest that you replace the fuel filter. It can be clogged causing fuel supply irregularities. If it still doesn't help then replace the fuel pump and you'll be good.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!
What you are experiencing right now is engine backfiring.
1. Use a higher-grade fuel for a while to help clean your fuel tank. You may have ended up with a tank of dirty gas that's causing some problems with your fuel injection.
2. Buy a can of fuel-injection cleaner that goes into your gas tank. This will clean out debris and dirt from the tank that's getting into your fuel line. Check with your motorcycle owner's manual or the manufacturer's recommendations to make sure this is safe for your particular motorcycle.
3. Check to see if the jets are clogged with debris or thick "gunk" that's causing your motorcycle to backfire. This will also cause problems with the fuel efficiently getting through the engine.
4. Take a close look to see if you have a dirty carburetor. The fuel will not be able to run efficiently through the engine with a dirty carburetor.
5. Visit your favorite motorcycle mechanic for an evaluation of the backfiring situation. Your motorcycle may need a complete engine cleaning to solve the backfiring problem.
I hope this helps. Thanks and good day. HotRatchet
Hi, Allan before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.gixxer.com/threads/battery-not-charging.552449/#post-7752073 https://www.gsxr.com/threads/gsxr-charging-system-101.225306/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PevgFfi_oaY https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1212456/Suzuki-Gsr750.html https://www.manualslib.com/manual/813897/Suzuki-Gsx-R750.html https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/
Hi, Zwelithini your instrument gauges and lights can alert you to most electrical and engine issues they can not warn you about failed engine gaskets or seals so your engine has to resort to old fashion alert methods of colored "SMOKE SIGNALS" here is a breakdown of their meaning:
1. COLORLESS OR SLIGHTLY BLUE SMOKE on start-up means your air/fuel mixture is the right composition and everything is well burnt in your combustion chamber.
2. BLUE SMOKE on startup is usually caused by failed valve seals dripping oil into the combustion chamber when the engine is not running.
3. YELLOW OR BROWNISH SMOKE at start-up means your air/fuel mixture is too lean. Too lean means that there is low fuel but high air mixture in your combustion chamber.
4. WHITE SMOKE on startup may be caused by a blown head gasket allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber and may start dripping out of the exhaust pipes or mufflers. Smoke while riding is usually caused by worn out or damaged valves, seals, guides, pistons, rings, or cylinder walls.
5. BLACK SMOKE on startup is usually caused by too much fuel in the combustion chamber this can be due to air/fuel mixture adjustment too rich, accelerator pump improperly adjusted, faulty choke or not in the off position, air filter dirty and clogged, faulty carburetor float needle and seat, pilot jet too large, fuel injectors leaking, smoke while riding is usually caused by the main jet being too large or a damaged carburetor.
It should be noted that aggressive or abnormal throttle operation will cause these conditions to manifest themselves exponentially.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day. https://www.gixxer.com/threads/idle-issue-then-black-smoke.356474/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YfEIP6eRzs https://www.manualslib.com/manual/813897/Suzuki-Gsx-R750.html https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki https://www.gixxer.com/threads/k8-750-owners-manual.378746/