20 Most Recent 1998 Suzuki TL 1000 R Questions & Answers

Google it! Service manual for suzuki LT1000R 1998 PDF

it should have instructions with it mate. not hard.

the clutch adjuster on the engine, not the cable adjuster, the unit behind the cover where the cable enters on the engine left side sat on bike, loosen the cables, remove the cover and loosen the 10 mm nut, get flat driver and screw the pin in till you meet resistance, then a tad midges dikc more, then back off quarter a turn, keeping the pin from moving with driver use 10 mm spanner hold driver tight and tighten the nut, it sounds like the adjuster needs loosening, as it is operating the clutch.

Check your charging system,(altenator, regulator). This is what keeps your battery charged when bike is running so that your lights etc. do not drain the battery, same principle as a car.

Explain exactly what is the problem pls.

I am not familiar with your set up but what you describe is very common.The bad news is you have probably bent your clutch push rod and have broken your crankcase. Which means complete disassembly of the motor and weld the case or replace the case. Perhaps an ebay or salvage motor with a good case? Good luck you have your work cut out for you.

I f you have no workshop manual then take it to a repair workshop on a trailer to get it fixed. Maybe get a quote first and consider a secondhand engine.

The CHEC and lack of fuel pump ('wiring') noise is indicative of a safety device disabling the bike.

The most common causes of this are an inoperative gear position switch and an inoperative engine kill switch.

First off, make sure you go into neutral fine (green N illuminates)

Check your kill switch, make sure it is in the run position.
If you use your kill switch to shut the bike off regularly, try rocking it back and forth a few times. They are not meant for regular use and often wear out.

If N illuminates fine and rocking the kill switch does not help, even momentarily, your next step would be to open the RH control and bypass the kill switch and verify operation. If it still does not power up, last likely item is the tip over sensor, but as you drove the bike before you parked it, it is highly unlikely.

Have you verified the battery is good and fully charged? If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/oscar_403cc49e0f00cda7

had an sv, the pipe running in the tank corroded, and let water in the tank, lots of it., also throttle bodies are injected not carbs

USE A DART TO GET INTO THE GROOVE.

check the seating area on the wheels where the discs sit, so remove discs, and clean the contact area.

I have a pump for a tl, if you need one. let me have your pump numbers to x check.

Could be a dying fuel pump or just a clogged filter. I'd stay away from 12K. They're red lined @ 11K for a reason.

I have a gsxr 1100 Suzuki where do I look at on my motorcycle for the voltage regulator

Check the voltage to the pump with a multi-meter, if there is voltage to the power wire on the fuel pump then it means the pump is blocked/knackared If not, then it could be electrical, check all your fuses and plug connections leading to the pump.

yes its like a air filter it needs changing often

my fury 125 kawasaki is having a problem when starting? i dont know if its rectifier? ialready change my battery with a knew one .then it drain it again .can you help me?

It would help to know where you are

Hi.

Either one of the valve is seized in the valve guide, or there is no fuel coming from carburetor body.

Check if there is fuel coming from carburetor line to the dry plug, if there is fuel but one valve only is not opening, then problem is the valve.

I am uploading the full service manual. The file is a huge 200Mb. I should be able to publish the link in less than one hour.