20 Most Recent 1997 Suzuki GSF 600 N Bandit Questions & Answers

This could be ignition related or a fuel problem or even a combination. If you not mechanically minded you are probably better off taking it to a shop. If you would like to try some things first I would recommend changing the fuel filter and the spark plugs(make sure to gap them properly) if that doesn't work. After that it gets more complicated and the shop is your best best.

Might be your balance?

If the bike will run with the choke on then you have a lean fuel/air mixture condition. Most common cause is a vacuum leak or faulty pitcock. Spray some carb cleaner around the carb mounts with engine at idle, if the rpms change there is your leak.
Your petcock should have two hoses attached to it. One hose is the main flow to the carbs. The other hose is/should be a vacuum hose that allows the gas to flow (when vacuum is applied). When your petcock is in the PRI position, this will bypass the vacuum hose. Leaving it in PRI when motor off could possibly flood the engine. Check to see if that vacuum hose is attached properly with no splits or cracks near both joints. If all is attached properly your problem is the petcock itself. It has a diaphragm and 'return' spring. Weak return spring, clogged petcock, damaged diaphragm can all cause your problem. Also, after you recleaned and inspected the carbs, were they synched... if not, this needs to be done.
Good luck...i hope this helps..please rate me a fixya.

if its only on 1 cyclinder and your sure the carb and sparks ok then the next step is to do a compression test to see if the fault lies with the engine, i.e. valves, rings etc,

did you change the carb jets to match the k&n's and exhaust, do the k&n's get wet, restricting air flow

maybe your fuse break. check your fuse beside your battery, there should be a 10amp fuse.

This may take a few days, Look for a produce called "PB Blaster". This is the best penetrating oil to use on dissimilar metals where corrosion happens worse. Spray and try to tap the pin with a hammer and punch. Spray and tap, wait, spray, tap, wait. If you can get a grip on it with pliers try and turn a bit left/right just a small amount ether way. Work in small steps, work slow, have patience with it, getting in a hurry is when folks cause damage, make things worse.

Make sure the battery has a good charge on it.
If it does, check the clutch, neutral and kickstand safety interlock switches.
One of the safeties is possibly disconnected or stuck.

It is not uncommon for discs including car discs after changing pads for the disc to squeel.

Because the disc will inevitably wear with use, the old brake pad that causes the wear will also be worn to fit perfectly to the wear on the disc as at engages, whereby grooves in the disc that are formed will be identically paired to that on the brake pad.

Squeeling is also common for old pads, as well as poor quality badly manufactured cheap pads, or excessive use of brake pads - where they get burnt and are too hard against the disc or dust fibres from the brake pad get caught within pad and disc. It could even be a combination of these that causes squeeling.

When you change the pads which are now new and being smooth and unworn they do not mate up anymore with the groove marks created from the wear of the old pads. The discs when brake pressure is applied will always vibrate to some extent, even on new bikes, however if imperfections exist such as the fact there is no wear marks from new pads rubbing against the old disc with its worn imperfections or even improper fitting etc occurs - they will sing in a high pitched squeel at certain speeds, even with good quality pads.

Other than ensuring all items are set up correctly, get a good quality brake pad and if it continues squeeling consider replacing the disc rotar itself or get the old one machined by a mechanic shop to be smooth again.

The most likely fault is that the ignition switch is not working. If you have a manual you could disconnect the switch and try to link the "on" pins. this will either prove the a faulty switch of eliminate it. You don't say what the bike is or if it has an imobilise. This last may be your problem if it has one.

Sorry I couldn't be more specific. This should at least give you a starting point.

the best thing to do is buy a repair book online for troublshoot details-cause Im not understandin statement

It depends on what the model and year is.

.... if you are a do-it-yourselfer and you already know this stuff, skip to the bottom!

It could be a burr in the brake cylinder or a problem with the master cylinder....

Personally, I would not mess around with it because we all know what happens if you lock up your front brakes!

If it is under warranty, let Suzuki deal with it....

If you are out of warranty:

1- If you know what you are doing, I would recommend the "shotgun" approach and replacing both the master cylinder and the wheel cylinder.... yep, it will cost more, but you will be more confident in the fix!

2- If you are not comfortable with brake work, get a skilled friend or a shop to take a look and replace what they think is bad (I would still go with both cylinders, but that is me....)

Also, don't forget if you are a "do-it-yourselfer":

When you are dealing with dual pistons, you need to press them both in together!
(that means TWO "C" clamps- one for each piston!)

adjust the idle screw on the carburetor.

Yes you will need the CDI for the 750f and harness as well

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.

A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....

You can't, the computerized system is in place to stop exactly what you are trying to do, Steal the bike without the correct credentials. You can't reprogram or over-ride the computer. You need a bike electrician.