Sounds like one of your sensors is going like the TPS Throttle Position Switch this sensor samples the distance of pedal travel to the throttle cable travel then compares the two signals calculates the preset number that is sent to computer module. The switch is anchored by two screws the adjustment there determine correct signal.
Either your coils are bad, or they are not getting power, or they are not getting a signal from the pulse coils.
Check ignition fuses
Check for ~12V at coils with ignition on.
Find pulse coil connector, check resistance across leads, should NOT be zero, and should not be infinite, consider about 100 ohms OK. (These wear out more often than the coils.)
If these three checks are OK, check the primary and secondary resistance of your coils. The resistance across the wire connections on the coil body should be about 10X the resistance from the spark plug wire to the coil connection.
All the best!
Sounds like an in-line fusable link. Check manual or car dealer and ask for location. If you find it, use a test light to check for voltage on both sides of link.
turn your fuel tank petcock to 'reserve'.the fuel is fed thru a vacuum valve (opens to allow fuel to pass when running or turning over). fuel is delivered via gravity otherwise (tank is higher than the carbs).
i took a look for you there really arent any diagrams online, the timing chain replacement on that engine is very difficult and requires a few special tools only available through Suzuki...your best bet is to buy the factory manual, and the tools. Doing it yourself will only save you about $200.00, because of the cost of the tools required Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c
It sounds like the pair valve hoses have come loose or un attached to where they are supposed to go.You have constant velocity carbs on that bike and those hoses need to be correct in order to gain top speed.They attach to the line that goes to the velocity diaphragms for the carbs.
Start with inspecting the clutch handle for any obstructions or rust.Lubricate the clutch cable at the handle.Follow the cable down and look for and pinching or damage.If you can follow the end of the cable to the actuall clutch mecaniism, inspect the area for clearance.If you can disconnect the cable from the clutch mecanisim and test the clutch handle to see if the cable moves freely.Manually try to engange an clucth with the engine off.If it won't move, time to diassemble the clutch.
it would turn into an overdrive gear--a whole new 5 sp box is probly the answer--theres more shifting in traffic--to me 4 is enough-thats all olschool bikes had---------youd have to git with a customizer-there found in drag mags or online
Locate rectifier, check condition of the wires at the block connector, externaly as well as internaly pull them gently with pliers they sometimes become corroded at this block, causing problems like yours, also check the condition of the silicone backing to the rear of the unit for damage such as burning such damage will require renewing the unit, damage here can be caused by running the machine with a discharged battery for a prolonged period, as can a short circuit in the alternator, which is not un common
