20 Most Recent 1992 Suzuki GSX-R 600 Questions & Answers

I suggest you check the circuit diagram to discover whether the ignition system is a true Capacitive Discharge Ignition or whether the electronic box of tricks is a programmed amplifier that effectively replaces the old fashioned contact breaker. There are few genuine CDI systems due to the size, complexity and the lethal level of their output. Most systems are the latter type where the current flows through the ignition coil to the amplifier where it is grounded as if by a contact breaker. When the engine rotates a trigger causes the amplifier to suddenly switch off breaking the circuit so the collapsing magnetic field of the coil primary winding induces a spark from the coil secondary winding. The trigger could be an optical type, a hall effect generator or most commonly a magnetic reluctor type. When the engine is stationary the programmed amplifier usually switches off after a few seconds preventing the relatively high current flow from overheating the coil and discharging the battery making checking the system difficult to check by conventional methods.

Hi!

No problem m8!

here is the Suzuki GSX1400 owners manual

and here is the Suzuki GSX1400 parts manual


Good luck!
Nic
DONT forget to RATE me

I think starter doesn't have access to oil, there is seal and is placed at the back of engine. The stator is placed in oil. If there is a hole at left hand side that is possible to lose oil from engine.

Check your side stand relay the engine will not start if the Circuit is open . Pull relay and jumper across just to test. if starter turn over you got it.

These are the timing triggers usually found on the end of the crank...

A carb diagram can be found at www.babbittsonline.com

Yes that could be the reason as when the gasket leaks the the engine slows down as the compression leaks from the gasket. And so does the oil, in small quantities. Not a major expense, so get it done before the engine is harmed. But take a guarantee out of your mechanic before giving him the job.

Start by positioning the fairing as close to where it belongs as you can.
The headlight may need repositioning to the fairing. (some models)
Align the bolts, bolt holes up to the motorcycle and get the first one started.
Do not tighten any bolts up until ALL are started.
Take your time and it will go together.

check for this:

Your idle adjustment screw, screw clockwise to increase, counterclockwise to decrease

Your throttle cable lubrication and cable free play. Lubricate your throttle cable and twist it a few times to spread out the lube, if it doesn't snap all the way back, then adjust your free play to give it more free play. if it still doesn't snap all the way back, your cable may be frayed and sticking inside the housing. Replace with a new throttle cable or a used one that works.


Your intake boots, make sure they are tightly secured to the carb and the engine.
Look at them and see if they are hard and cracking. If your intake boots leak, this causes high idle, as well as running too lean.
While running the engine spray carb cleaner on the boots one at a time and if the idle drops down for a second or two then you have a leak. Change them out if you have any doubts.

A carb without any jets in it will just idle, so its probably not the carbs, just check the above.

The carbs are gummed up with varnish from sitting so long. Clean the carbs.

Fuse should be near battery. Yes, there is a cap for filling, easily found, behind front fairing but easily accessible.

Start by checking all your fan connections including the connection on your thermostatic switch . Could be just a loose connection or a bad ground . Usually the fan has plug in connections behind the radiator . You can run a wire from the + side if your battery to the hot wire on the fan to see if the fan itself is OK that's bad . Also check where the wires that go thru the radiator are proper or  shorting out .
Next bleed the cooling system to make sure it is not a trapped air issue.
if the bike ever goes past 230 235 shut it off because your cooling system and/or fan are not working.Also check for the leak in radiator.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

sounds like you need to replace the side stand switch. it's on the upper part ofyour kickstand.

for long life and good all around performance i recommened this plug
NGK Iridium IX CR9EIX Spark Plug

remove lower faring to expose cover . 3 or 4 small screws hold cover on

The cold pipes means the bike is not firing on those cylinders. Replace all the plugs and start it. Or you will need some elecrical diagnosis. Chaz Moto DC

yes u can, but it has to be no more than a 1 amp output or you will fry the battery cells, most auto parts stores sell these Motorcycle battery chargers.
here is a link to a good charger at a good price.
http://www.autobarn.net/acmc-1.html?site=google_base

There are a # of things that can take your spark out, first I would see if you have power to your ignition coil (100V+). If none there you need to isolate your ignition switch (unplug it or take it out of the equation) and jump your starter solenoid manually or try pushstarting the bike. If still nothing check for voltage going into your CDI box, if none check for voltage out of your stator (over 100V) and your trigger or pulse coil (over 3V). If you find voltage at the stator and not the trigger replace the trigger and vice versa. If there is voltage for both replace CDI box (but be cautious to verify good ground for CDI box and ignition coil). If you find voltage out of your CDI box (over 100V) replace your ignition coil. Good luck!

check these out:

some jets needs to be replaced instead of the whole carb

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Motorcycle-Repair-837/suzuki-gsxr600-carb-problems.htm

http://www.factorypro.com/services/needle%20jet%20rebuild.html

and for calibration,

http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/Factory_Carburetor_Recalibration_Kit_Jet_Kit_Suzuki_GSXR600--11-FACT-21B.html

1.Check the floats. (These cannot be put in carb cleaner, or sprayed with carb cleaner, if they are of the Plastic material. {Brownish, or Black in color. It will eat them up!)

2.Check float heights. Make sure they are set to the specified level, off of the carb main body.

3. Make sure that none of the floats are bad.
(Make sure they float, and haven't soaked up gas. I don't know what material they used for your particular bike. Some are made of Brass, some are made of a Phenolic(?) plastic material.

If the Phenolic, {Brownish or Black in color}, material gets ANY kind of a slight scratch, a thumbnail mark, or any other teeny, tiny, defect, it will soak up gas. If the Brass float develops a teeny pinhole, or a solder seam lets loose, it will soak up gas)
Float level set too high, the carb floods out. Float is bad, it won't 'Float', and it will let too much gas in. Both conditions cause flooding of the carburetor.

When installing jets Do Not overtighten! You can actually twist them!

All the carbs must be set to each other. This takes a special setup. A Manometer is used to set multiple carbs. Motorcycle shops have Manometers.

It also sounds like you may have a vacuum leak. Check the rubber manifold sleeves, (Carb to manifold) See if any of the clamps are loose. See if the rubber sleeve was installed right back, to the position it came off of. The rubber sleeve will form around any casting imperfections, of the carb, and/or of the intake manifold. Has to fit tight like a glove on a hand.

Example:
Say there is a casting imperfection on the intake manifold. The round tube area the rubber sleeve goes on. Say that this imperfection is a slight, little bump. After time, rubber hardens, and forms around that little bump. Now you turn the rubber sleeve a little to the right, or left, when re-installing, and the deformed shape in the rubber sleeve from that bump, is now on a perfectly round shape. It doesn't fit tight around that round shape. Air will be sucked in.
That's a vacuum leak, and the engine will idel faster than it should.

You could have just one carb with this problem, and it will throw off the other carbs.
I carefully spray a little carb cleaner towards where the rubber sleeve connects to the carb, and also where the sleeve connects to the intake manifold. (Caution as it IS flammable!) Just a little squirt here, and a little squirt there, going around the sleeve, in the two areas mentioned above.
If the engine races up, you have a vacuum leak. With a vacuum leak you will never get the idle set right.

Your carbs also have Slides. The slide moves the main needle jet up, and down. These Cannot stick in the carb main body. They have to be nice, and free. There is a rubber diapragm that moves the slide up, and down as I recall. It cannot have a tiny pinhole in it, nor be stretched out.

Questions?