Hi, Zack it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or may not and run great or sputter, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component etc.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 2006 Gsxr750 How to Check F1 light or Fl and Get Code Fast easy and Free Suzuki Fault Codes Suzuki GSX R750 Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki
Hi, Phil if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Super tune the GSXR 750 Carburator Theory and Tuning Suzuki GSX R750W 1993 Service Manual OEM parts for Suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals
run a can of Seaforam in the tank..purchase from Autozone put in 1/3 to two gallons gas drive it around for at least 10 miles to insure it cleans out the whole carb system.if that doesnt work, check all carb hose fittings when bike is at idle spray some Chemtool B-12 ( also at Autozone) around the carb hoses and manifolds..if idle increses thats your problem. Caution: chemtool is very toxic wear gloves and a mask.
Shes 20 years old now so she shouldnt be tight anymore assumeing of course that she has a good number of Ks on her now does the clutch engage & disengage properly if it is slipping at all this will cause difficulty changeing slipping is just what it sounds like you increase acceleration the revs go up but the bike is free wheeling this slipping clutch condition is caused by a number of things the most common being maladjustment is there enough freeplay at the lever should be between 1/8 to3/8 of an inch between the lever & the perch next is dirty or burned oil change the engine oil & filter make the neccasary adjustments see how you go worst case scenario you will need to replace your clutch plates in my experience the gearboxes on these old girls are virtualy bullet proof let me know how you get on
Remove the riders seat and you'll see two bolts at the back of the tank...each side panel will need to be unclipped as they attach to the tank also. Once done, the tank should be able to be slid backwards and lifted...just be careful of the fuel lines etc
best way to do this is to take spark plugs out individually and check for smell and sight of fuel. if it is getting fuel but not sparking then you will have a wet sparkplug. if it is dry look at the colour of the hook at the bottom of the plugs. brown plugs means running too rich, grey plugs means average burning and working well. black plugs is very bad and must be serviced. if all this not working the other test you can try but dont spill any petrol before you do this. if while you have plug out(only one at a tim or yuoll loose where wot leasd went to where) plugging it into the cable and holding with a very insulated pair of pliers, then try to turn bike over(start) whilst looking at the hook bit on the plug. if you see a bright spark from the plug then you will prob find they firing in the worng order. this could be a problem and should be dealt with by a dealer.
Clean the air filter and, if you have one, remove the water trap bowl on the fuel petcock and clean it. How good is the battery? Install new STOCK plugs. Bear in mind it may be time for carb kits. Other than your cleaning the carbs, the carb kits and balancing and synchronizing of the carbs are best left for the shop to do.
Check the exhaust pipes. If there is a restriction in the burned gases exiting the tailpipe then the bike will not run right, will loose power and even die if too much back pressure builds up. Disconnect the exhaust system and tick off the neighbors with a quick ride around the block without a muffler. If the engine still dies then exhaust is not likely to be the problem.
Check the compression on all cylinders. Depending on the compression, the bike may be ready for a valve job. If you pull the head for the valve job then you might as well consider re-boring the cylinders and install new pistons and rings. Bear in mind, doing a valve job and / or pistons is not recommended for the novice. The good part is that when the work is finished you will effectively have a new engine.
Please rate this solution as "FixYa" if I have answered your questions. Thanks!