20 Most Recent 1990 Suzuki GSX-R 750 L Questions & Answers

15200 km = 9445 miles

run a can of Seaforam in the tank..purchase from Autozone put in 1/3 to two gallons gas drive it around for at least 10 miles to insure it cleans out the whole carb system.if that doesnt work, check all carb hose fittings when bike is at idle spray some Chemtool B-12 ( also at Autozone) around the carb hoses and manifolds..if idle increses thats your problem. Caution: chemtool is very toxic wear gloves and a mask.

Shes 20 years old now so she shouldnt be tight anymore assumeing of course that she has a good number of Ks on her now does the clutch engage & disengage properly if it is slipping at all this will cause difficulty changeing slipping is just what it sounds like you increase acceleration the revs go up but the bike is free wheeling this slipping clutch condition is caused by a number of things the most common being maladjustment is there enough freeplay at the lever should be between 1/8 to3/8 of an inch between the lever & the perch next is dirty or burned oil change the engine oil & filter make the neccasary adjustments see how you go worst case scenario you will need to replace your clutch plates in my experience the gearboxes on these old girls are virtualy bullet proof let me know how you get on

opposite to the way they came out, page 5.26 of the workshop manual. by haynes

Remove the riders seat and you'll see two bolts at the back of the tank...each side panel will need to be unclipped as they attach to the tank also.
Once done, the tank should be able to be slid backwards and lifted...just be careful of the fuel lines etc

If this is in reference to a gsxr750 l its a carbed bike , it wouldnt have an fi light ?

cross threaded. needs to be tapped or dyed

there are 2 vent tubes that attach to vent tube fittings between carb 1/2 and carbs 3 and 4. they just sweep up over air box. i got a 91 slingshot, reckon its right mate. good luck nice bike

best way to do this is to take spark plugs out individually and check for smell and sight of fuel. if it is getting fuel but not sparking then you will have a wet sparkplug. if it is dry look at the colour of the hook at the bottom of the plugs. brown plugs means running too rich, grey plugs means average burning and working well. black plugs is very bad and must be serviced. if all this not working the other test you can try but dont spill any petrol before you do this. if while you have plug out(only one at a tim or yuoll loose where wot leasd went to where) plugging it into the cable and holding with a very insulated pair of pliers, then try to turn bike over(start) whilst looking at the hook bit on the plug. if you see a bright spark from the plug then you will prob find they firing in the worng order. this could be a problem and should be dealt with by a dealer.

Clean the air filter and, if you have one, remove the water trap bowl on the fuel petcock and clean it. How good is the battery? Install new STOCK plugs. Bear in mind it may be time for carb kits. Other than your cleaning the carbs, the carb kits and balancing and synchronizing of the carbs are best left for the shop to do.

Check the exhaust pipes. If there is a restriction in the burned gases exiting the tailpipe then the bike will not run right, will loose power and even die if too much back pressure builds up. Disconnect the exhaust system and tick off the neighbors with a quick ride around the block without a muffler. If the engine still dies then exhaust is not likely to be the problem.

Check the compression on all cylinders. Depending on the compression, the bike may be ready for a valve job. If you pull the head for the valve job then you might as well consider re-boring the cylinders and install new pistons and rings. Bear in mind, doing a valve job and / or pistons is not recommended for the novice. The good part is that when the work is finished you will effectively have a new engine.

Please rate this solution as "FixYa" if I have answered your questions. Thanks!

Does it do it when the weather is damp or anytime?

Don't use cold start.it will not solve your problem.Try running it with out the air cleaners ,it may be that you have an air intake problem and not getting the right Air / fuel mixture .

Under the rear cowl, right side. You don't have to remove it all the way,but you do need to take all the bolts out to move it so you can access the voltage regulator and the plug/connector. This is where mine was located. it has 2 bolts attached to the frame, i use a 10 mm socket to remove and replace it. Should only take approx 1/2 hour or less from start to finish. I had a 93' 750 and i miss it now. love those older **** rockets. Best regards Big Al

You should take off the carb and clean it with petrol and compressed air, after that try replacing the spark wich is @ the carb.

It goes to the coil of course but it is more than likely made into the coil and cannot be r replaced with replacing the coil. Call the Suzuki dealer and try to buy just the coil wire.
Good Luck

make sure cam chain tensioner is
released or removed.place engine on top dead center on no 1 cylinder.marks for this will be found on righthand side of engine after removing ignition pick up cover,line the T mark on the ignition rotor[by turning the 19mm nut on the end of the crankshaft in a clockwise direction]with the centre of the ignition pick up.place in exhaust cam on head with the no 1mark on the exhaust cam sprocket in chain so as the arrow for no1 facing the front of engine and is lined up with the top of cylinder head,fit exhaust cam caps and tension to specs.Place inlet cam on cylinder head with the no1 mark on the inlet cam sprocket facing the rear of engine and is lined up with the top of cylinder head

Hello,

The valve clearance (both intake and exhaust) when cold are the same; 0.004 - 0.006 inches (0.10 - 0.15mm).

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Regards,

Oz

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